100/80 Lighbulb. . .

[KW]

Can I run a 100/80 watt light bulb without making and mod to the wiring and/or worrying about the headlight lamp lens ‘fogging’ up on down the road? My high beam went out today and as it happens; I have a more powerful one than the standard 65w on the shelve. I got it a few years ago, but never put it in, thinking I had to rewire to handle the increase. According to Chets page (great site BTW) I should be 'ok' unless I go BIGGER like a 120. Anyone have any experience with this? Leaving for Independence MO Thursday, so I have a few days to get it right. 

[sandy]

I wouldn't do it. 100 Watts is a big jump from 65.

[Jess from VA]

KW, many IS riders have run 80/100 or 90/100 H4s in the fairing with no problem and no mods, the IS fairing gets lots of air.  I haven't yet, but I have two sets waiting to go in my bikes (when I feel like getting really aggravated changing fairing bulbs again).

But I have read the std/tourer bucket is too closed up and that heat will fry the wiring/socket unless you upgrade wiring or socket or both.  This has been addressed here before and with pics of the upgrades.

You didn't say what you ride.

PS everyone upgrades from Honda 45/45 to automotive 55/60 H4s with a tab cut off. (with or without the keeper rings)

[KW]

Yeah. .  that's why I never replaced it a few years ago. The 'new' bulb has been sitting in my garage for over two years. Anyway, here's what I read TODAY at rattlebar's page;

"HIGH WATTAGE HEADLAMPS: The stock Standard wiring will support (for "off road use only" of course) an H4 with the wattage of 100/90 without the need for any wiring overhaul so it's just a matter of replacing the bulb (see here for Standard). To get both your acuity and visibility up to par, these bulbs can be obtained for about $12 at any motorcycle shop which also deals in off road vehicles (quads or dirt bikes). NAPA auto stores sell another version H4 which is 100/60 and there are 90/55's (and other wattages) available that will almost comply, at least on low beam, with most state laws (check yours). Beyond the lack of improvement in low beam acuity however, use of bulbs with such wide disparity between high and low wattages will have "older" eyes failing to adjust quickly enough when one switches from high to low beam which will further hamper low beam acuity momentarily. Should you swap out your dim bulb for an H4 of higher than 100/90 wattage (120/100 or more) it may be necessary to add additional wiring with a relay to power it [see MarkT's method] or risk burning your wires and switches (see note). You also risk fogging your inner reflecting surface, but these bulbs have been run for long periods (many thousands of miles) by folks without harm to the big ten inch. There are other risks involved in having too much light output in front of your vehicle and these will be discussed in the EXTRA HEAD LIGHT section."

That's wat prompted my question today. To see if anyone has had any direct experience with it. Oh, I ride a Standard. Thanks for any and all help.

[MarkT]

Installing a couple relays in the headlight bucket is really trivial.  The biggest effort is in R&Ring the tank to run the power wire along the frame.  Which is also trivial - bet I've done it a hundred times.  You can put off replacing the socket for awhile - I ran the stock one for years, powering a 130/90 bulb, before I needed to replace it with a heavier one.  I've run the 130/90 bulb now for 15 years - no damage to the reflector or lens.  It's FAR brighter than stock, and brighter than the expensive solutions.  Cheaper too, cost is a couple relays, a fuse holder, some wire, and the high-power bulb available from Competition Accessories.  Bonus, now your starter switch and hi/lo switch won't need maintenance as they now have far less power going thru the contacts.

http://www.horseapple.com/Valkyrie/Tech_Tips/Headlight_Upgrade/headlight_upgrade.html

[KW]

It's a 100/80 bulb. . . . I think I'm going to give it a try and see what happens. Thanks for the imput guys.

[Old Geezer Richard]

 Hey KW , I once ran an 100 / 80 Halogen lite bulb in my Old 1981 1100 Goldwing and its nice and bright at nite especially in the boonies , BUT one Sun. evening coming back from Luckenback with the brites on looking out for deer , my head lite went out  all the other lites were working ... so anyway I finally got home about dark thirty the next day I found the problem that nobody told me to use a relay for that hot bulb because the main wire was completely burnt and the plastic coating plain melted  .... so now I use a high out put bulb still , but its a Zenon Bulb 100 / 80 headlite , it runs cooler and doesn't draw a whole lot of amps on high beam ... you find them in different catalogues for about $ 20 + -... J.C. Whippy has them ... Thanks the Geezer   

[KW]

Thanks Geezer  I put it in this afternoon. .  we'll see. I read everything I could find and I would say the 'majority' thinks a 100/80 is ok, but we'll see. I'll run my dims 95% of the time (still brighter than stock brights) and an '80w' shouldn't be a problem for a Valk. It isn't that big of difference over stock brights (65w.) I will say this; the 100w is BRIGHT! I can certainly see the concern over the heat. The monster has to be generating enough heat to fry eggs in there. I'll do the wiring mod this fall before I pack her up for Florida. Thanks again guys! 

[Ricky-D]

Chuckle, chuckle.

It's the start switch.

To delay is to deny.

"You'll be back"

***

[9Ball]

It's a 100/80 bulb. . . . I think I'm going to give it a try and see what happens. Thanks for the imput guys.

Been running this bulb since the bike was new in 1999.  
One thing to keep an eye on is the plug.  About 4 years ago I removed my Kury lightbar and during the removal noticed that the factory plug was showing evidence of overheating...discolored plastic.  

I replaced the OEM plug with a high temp ceramic plug that Kingbee recommended.  It was $4.70 from NAPA (07/19/2008) and is an over the counter item.  Some solder and shrink wrap and no longer have to worry about heat damaging the plug.

The ceramic plug part number from NAPA is LS6235.

The 100/80 bulb part number is BP1210/H4.