Carbs Again ???!!!!!

[Poor Ol Harry]

I cleaned my carbs & replaced all 6 low speed jets (stock).& 1 needle valve #6 that I suspected that it allowed the hydro lock , removed the pair valve,plugged all 6 chrome tubes & 5 of the 6 intake vacume nipples & Clamped # 6.filted box in place with new filter, with all 9 clamps tight & 6 new spark plugs, I straped a 2 gal gas csn atop the filter & ran a hose to the line that would connect to the tank.I pushed the button & the starter sounded as Rocket man described it (clattering),I read his & others posts & it's clear what is coming for me,if I ever hear/see this thing run right.,,,,,,,With all that said ,when I got over the starter thing.....I fired it up on full choke & if I release the choke it falls dead....also while ideling ,full choke, ocasional pop & running rough......I pulled #2 plug wire.....no change #4...still no change then 6 ......& it started dieing.......I pulled the plugs & put em to their wire....#2 real weak #4 a little better # 6 as expected of.,,,,,,I opened the carb drains & 2,4 & 6 are all flowing fuel??????????? I know I got other problems but I'd like to see it run afore I take more on.All commets appreacheated & NEEDED? Thanks   Harry

[Ricky-D]

Did you remove the carburetors from the motor when doing the work?

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[DarkSideR]

Did you check all 6 Bulk Hose Vacuum lines attached to each Carb? My Valk with 27k, all 6 of these tubes were cracked at their ends.

[ryord]

I had an intermittent problem similar to what you are describing, I ended up testing the 3 and 4 plug wires with an inductive timing light and found no fire, I bought some used coils and wires on ebay and replaced the offending wires after cleaning, solved that problem. The wires do go bad. 

[Dozer]

Hi Harry...still giving you fits? Personally I found that running from a "remote can" was not the best thing but it did work, Next I found that as I tried to sync the carbs, the better it ran with respect to idle, acell, etc. When I first started it up after the carb rebuild, it ran so bad I thought I screwed it up royally.

Did you by chance try to pre-sync the carbs mechanically with a shim or feeler gage? Are you certain that all of the intake tubes are properly seated..no kinks or gaps or folded over the inlets. The smallest thing can cause huge problems

[salty1]

+1 on what Dozer suggested. 

[Poor Ol Harry]

Thanks Dozer for giving me somewhere to look.I removed the air filter & put a drop light top of the intakes with garage lights off,hoping I would see a trace of light but not so,I inspectred the 6 intakes  & ran a finger round them best I could & I feel confident that they are good.No I didn't try the shim pre sync as I saw a u tube vedio the other day & the guy spoke of working off the 3 tiny holes at the bottom of the butterflys to sync with.Well I must of not understood or the guy was way off but based on his vedio it was all me.Anyway after checking everything I cranked it (full choke) & I began to tamper with the sync screws & it reved up a little & I was able to release the choke....It will now crank & idel without the choke.Sooooo,now I'll start researching the sync process.Did you use 1 gage or a series.Not sure where to begin other than the SEARCH button.Thanks Harry

[salty1]

Lots of info here on how to synchronize your carbs and what approach people used. I've used single gauges as well multiple manometers to synch carbs.

[Dozer]

Harry...when I did mine I presynced the butterflys with a thin piece of shim stock that came with the kit I got from Redeye. All you are doing is being sure the butterflies open and close at the same time, the same amount. That got them close to matched.

After that I used one vacuum gauge with a T fitting. I put six hoses on the carb nipples...one per carb that is, and ran the hoses to the back of the engine. Then I plugged all of the hoses with a golf Tee except for #3 and the carb to be synced.

Then attached one hose from #3 cyl to the vacuum Tee and left it there. #3 is the "master cylinder" the others are synced to.

Then I picked the cylinder I was going to sync and attached that hose to the other end of the tee and pinched the hose closed leaving #3 open. Started the bike and read the gauge noting the reading on #3.

Then pinched off the #3 hose, unpinched the hose and read the gauge on the carb I was syncing. Then turned the sync screw on that carb till I got the same reading that was on #3.

Then went through all of the other carbs the same way till they all read the same on the vacuum gauge as #3. Also, very important, be sure you have a steady vacuum on the petcock to hold open the diaphram or the bike will run like crap for lack of fuel Its best to have a mighty vac or similiar tool to provide a source of vacuum. Each time you get closer to being synced, the better it will run and also the faster. So you will have to monitor your tach and turn down tyhe idle speed somewhat. Its not a hard job....just sounds complicated.

[Poor Ol Harry]

Dozer.....don't sound too complicated to me....if fact it's zackley what I thought......I read & read & didn't see why I needed 6 gagues?I picked up a mighty vac when I started this ordeal......now it's justified.I assume you got rid of the aux, tank because starveing for gas? OK! Off to the gague & hose store.Sure feels better going into something with clear advice!!!Thanks Harry

[Dozer]

I am not sure if the aux tank was an issue but it sure ran better when I reinstalled Gas tank.
I had several gauges in my tool box. I picked the one with the largest face and easy to read. I think with the case of one gauge, accuracy doesnt matter cause all you are doing is matching the other 5 carbs to #3 no matter what it reads. I used the method that Patrick advised.

I picked up two boxes of windshield washer hose at Advance auto. That gave me 12' and it was just enough. Just be watchful that the hoses dont touch the exh pipes in the process and remember that the intake runners get pretty hot too...dont burn your fingers. My guess is you'll get that thing straightened out and its gonna run like new. I am very happy with mine. However, after all the conversation about hydro lock, I now turn the petcock off but often forget to turn it back on. Did it today on the way home from work. I got a miles from the airport and it started acting like clogged jets again. Then I remembered and switched it on....aaaaaaaaaand awayyyyyyy we go!

Keep us posted on your progress

[Patrick]

Hey Harry
  I sent you an answer.. If you don't get it let me know and we'll figure something out..

[roadmap]

speaking only from exp.. i went through a few bad words pulled the carbs 3 times replacing parts still not running right.  trust me it is not electrical it your carbs  the only way to fix this is a complete rebuild, also new needle seats. i even replace to #38 slows but not needed, i took them off to leave it stock.

complete rebuild take carbs off seperate at least 12 (walmart gallon carb cleaner $20 called berrymans) hrs each carb new kit(o-ring) seats carb sync i bet your good to go i went through what everybody goes through go through the archives

at this day and the age of the bike do a complete rebuild

i myself learned that if i only fix one thing at a time that also saves your headache buy a 30 pack it only takes 3 days to do 6 carbs

my thought on the seats when your carbs are off the bike turn over if the floats hit bottom after lightly raising them they not seating right  rubber point is worn no visible signs of wear you'll see the difference right away when you change

that with a in-line filter and dan fuel shut off
what a differnet it made. do not take short cuts    there are members that follow the boards that rebuild carbs i haven't used him but he was nice enough to tell me how to fix it    

[salty1]

An auxillary tank is really handy when synchronizing your carbs. Something like what's shown below works well.

http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0032/

Just make sure it's high enough to create enough pressure to fill your carbs. I usually have mine about 4 to 5 feet above the bike. When doing the synch, if the fan comes on wait until it goes off to make any adjustments. It's likely to come on a few times because your sychronizing the carbs at normal operating temperatures. Also, I would suggest that you have a floor fan pointed at the front of your bike to help cool it through this process. Good luck.

[Poor Ol Harry]

I got ur message LOUD & CLEAR Patrick.I never bought golf tee before....they come 300 to a pack so if anyone needs any I can help u out......the gauge I thought would be at any parts house but not so.....big as Houston is, I'll own one today.I may jump on it this eve......if not after my weekly breakfast ride with my mc croonies it'll happen Sat. noonish & hopefully I won't be whinning next time I post? A big help thanks to all.HARRY

[Dozer]

I got ur message LOUD & CLEAR Patrick.I never bought golf tee before....they come 300 to a pack so if anyone needs any I can help u out......the gauge I thought would be at any parts house but not so.....big as Houston is, I'll own one today.I may jump on it this eve......if not after my weekly breakfast ride with my mc croonies it'll happen Sat. noonish & hopefully I won't be whinning next time I post? A big help thanks to all.HARRY

Lats see...you have used 5 Tees so far. That leaves you with 295. That means you can sync your carbs at least 59 more times using new Tees!!!

[Poor Ol Harry]

OK guys ,I got a oil filled vac gauge @ ww grainger $65.00.......I'me in the 18 wheeler rig-up buisness so I went to a vender for fittings that they didn't have,but gave me a vac gauge with fittings ,but it  is dry? Will it work ?

[Dozer]

wet or dry doesnt matter. Both will work. Dry gauge,  just pinch down on the vacuum line a bit to dampen the vibrations

[Patrick]

Well Harry,, now is a good time to take up the sport since you bought some of the equipment already !  ..  Actually chunks of dowel or screws would have worked,, anything to plug the hole would work,, golf Ts just seem to be ready made for the job..
That oil gauge is probably dampened,, but,, it seems a tad pricey doesn't it ??
But,, anyway,, you should be fine.. Its easy and doesn't take too much time.. You might even think its fun..

[Poor Ol Harry]

!@!#&**($$##@ !!! Took another whoppin yesterday. I just want to tell ya'll....I would gladly take it somewhere to get it fixed but I did & thats what got me in the fix I'me in now.I tampered with vac hoses,plugs (vac & spark)gauges,fans,idle adj.throttle cables,hot & cold exhaust pipes & burnt fingers 5 r 6 hours yesterday to get NO WHERE.Not to mention my garaqe is not AC.........I got a fish tank valve connected to a T.....1 hose to #3 & the other to #1.....problem is ...soon as I crack the valve the gauge starts jumping HARD from 0 to 15.It fires right up / no choke on cold start but is running on 1,3 & 5 ideling I can pull 2,4 & 6 plug wires with no change buttttt I can blip it & they all fire?????? Yes Patrick the gauge was a little pricey as of what I've read I expected 10 r 15 bucks.Please someone give me some releife? Harry

[Patrick]

The fish tank valve goes between the gauge and the ' T '..  Then you can connect one the second leg of the 'T' to #3.. The 3rd leg of 'T' then goes to whatever cylinder you are checking.. The forceps clamp off the cylinder you are not checking.. Only one vacuum line should be  open to the vacuum gauge.. If the fish valve doesn't work properly then try another pair of forceps, small vise grips, etc, or you can make your own clamp..
If everything is as it should be with the carburetors,, the sync is fast and easy.. Remember as in my PM,, if you have to adjust a carburetor very much there is something wrong..

[Dozer]

Harry...Id check the right bank again. If you are getting no gas you wont see any RPM difference when you pull a plug wire... I chased that problem before. Open the bowl drains on 2,4 & 6 and see if theres fuel in them. Although I do seem to remember you had a wireing question about those coils when you were going back together with it. Can you see any spark at the plug tip or hear a spark jump when you slightly remove the wire?

Dont give up my friend...you can do it. We are all here to help you. I am planning to take a dew days off soon. I am no expert but if worse comes to worse, I can throw my crap on the bike and ride over to Baytown (provided you have a fan)...its not far from Humble. If you take it to a dealer first he's gonna make fun of you then he's gonna hand you a $300 bill.  We can try to unscrew it up together! LOL  I used to drive down there every Wed and Fri to the drag strip.

[Poor Ol Harry]

Yep.....Dozer I've loosened the drain screws more than once,,,,,every time they dump gas.The coil I had in question fires 1&2..........& 1 is OK.....plus I'me sure I got the wires back correctly per the manuel & viewing the other colis.I may take it to a MC salvage yard but the last dealer I went to has made it tough on em all for me!....& I knew better when I took it there.........I've got the vac lines connerted as Patrick advised but soon as I crack the valve the gague gets radical....bounces from 0 to 15 so fast u cannot see it move? I even kinked it by hand & released it slowly? I had it running with 3 extra plugs in 2,4 & 6 wires.....# 2 weak  # 4 better # 6 OK.....I should add 2 & 4 do begin to warm up a little after running 15/20 minutes. I hate to put u out but if I don't crack this case afour long ......I'me gonna need some hands on I guess........I'me 4 r 5 miles fron the track,,,,if I'me outside I can hear the cars at the track......when they have the nationals I can hear them in the house.I got A fan & can get more.......not above a portable AC.......who knows.....we mabe can cut a watermelon.I'll plug at it a little more & if it don't get better I'me off just about anytime I need be.

[Dozer]

Harry what I meant to say was check the LEFT bank...not the right. That would be 2,4 & 6. 1,3 & 5 are obviously the right...sorry, my bad.
 
Those gauges can be pesky. The point to where the hose is kinked and the needle isnt bouncing all over the place is pretty touchy. I used two pairs of forcips and a set of needle nose vise grips and even it out & then it wasnt that smooth. I was really amazed at just how much effect the slightest adjustment to the sync screws made. Thats why I asked if you did a "presync" on the bank before you installed the set. It gives you a pretty close point to start the job.

If ya need a hand let me know when and I'll try to co-ordinate my time off. I cant guarantee 100% success but I cant make it any worse than it is either!

You live that close to the track? You can probably smell the nitro too...I love that smell!

[Poor Ol Harry]

Dozer, kings x on the house call for now, as I think I'me on to something......I decided to pull the intakes to make sure i haden't dropped an o ring during remount,thinking surley I'd of seen it laying loose.....anyway I pulled #6 & it was wettish & browny looking on the flange outside the o ring....pulled#4 & the same.....I replaced those o rings 1 1/2 YRS.ago......I still had the rings I took out hanging on a nail.....the ones in the bike now are much thinner than the ones I had hanging...soooo I don't know if I put those in or if they came with my $750.00 carb job 7 months ago ..... I'll work on that & r & r the exhaust rings ...then I'll post again.I knew what side u ment when I read it ....no bad.....still looking forward to meeting up with  you down the line

[Poor Ol Harry]

I may not sound like it but you been alot of help!!