Headlight bulb suggestons: Update

[jmann]

I just completed the headlight wiring mod/upgrade and was wondering if anyone had suggestions for a good quality BRIGHT headlight bulb in the 100/80 range and where to purchase?

[9Ball]

NAPA carries the H4 bulb in 100/80.

The 100/80 bulb part number is BP1210/H4.

[jmann]

Thanks for the info. Does the higher wattage bulb put out so much more heat that I would need to worry about the integrity of the headlight lens itself?

[9Ball]

I've had this wattage bulb in my standard since 2000....had to replace the plug about 4 years ago due to indications of heat on the plastic plug. No issues or damage to the standard headlight lens from the higher wattage bulb.  I beleive that the 130 w bulb is a problem...and also higher wattage bulbs in the dual Interstate housing have caused some problems as reported here many years ago.

I replaced the OEM plug with a high temp ceramic plug that Kingbee recommended.  It was $4.70 from NAPA (07/19/2008) and is an over the counter item.  Some solder and shrink wrap and no longer have to worry about heat damaging the plug.

The ceramic plug part number from NAPA is LS6235.

[jmann]

Thank you sir for the good info. I did go ahead and use the ceramic plug so I should be GTG. I don't think I will be running any higher than the 100/80. I am thinking that will be bright enough.

[Ricky-D]

As the lens of the headlight becomes less transparent thru fogging, pitting and all the other degrading forces, the heat produced within the headlight becomes more pronounced.

Installing a higher wattage (heat producing) light bulb only increases the possibility of heat damage to all the components within the headlight including the lens and reflector.

Don't think that Honda didn't work all this out prior to developing the Valkyrie.  Honda did !!!

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[jmann]

All points well taken Mr. D. Wasn't mother Honda though somewhat limited as to what they could install bulb wise by the legal restrictions imposed in the US? I believe max legal is the 60/55 and while I am aware of the legal ramifications I am going to adjust the light accordingly and take my chances. My aging eyes are not what they used to be and I like a little extra help when needed. I just want to have a little peace of mind that stuff wont start melting inside the headlight housing. I believe the ceramic bulb holder will take care of that along with the heavier gauge wire I used. I have read posts from quite a few owners that have made the mod and gone to a higher wattage without issue. Thanks for your input though. 

[Mildew]

Good info here.  I bought the Walmart bulb a few years ago. It's not the $30  ultra but it is plenty bright and lasts a long time. I'll probably go with the napa deal next time.

[jmann]

Update: I installed the 100/80 watt bulb last night and went for about an hour and a half ride out to the lake so that I could hit some very dark stretches of road so that I could adjust the beam. Well I have to say that the light improvement was tremendous. Vast improvement. Only concern though is how freakin hot the lens gets. I was very surprised and wish I had a temp meter to measure it. I cannot imagine going to any higher wattage. If you could turn your headlamp horizontal you could cook on that thing. I am going to keep a close eye on it for any lens/reflector degradation. 

[MarkT]

You can stop worrying about it.  The speculative statements so far about heat are just that - not based on actual use. I have been running my 130/90 watt H4 in my standard since 1998. (This is of course after the wiring with relays for high-power mod - http://www.horseapple.com/Valkyrie/Tech_Tips/Headlight_Upgrade/headlight_upgrade.html)  I had to replace the plug on the ride to Zanesville for the first Inzane.  There have been NO OTHER issues from heat - the lens and reflector still look new.  You can get this bulb at Competition Accessories for $15.99 - it's a PIAA bulb made in Germany.  The light is WAY MORE than the 100/80.  Lights up the road clearly for a measured half mile, and that's just the headlight - without help from the spots. These bulbs have been lasting me for years - typically around 4.

Concerns about legality/blinding traffic - Aim the light carefully.  Aim it again when you need to replace the bulb - there are usually differences in the exact location of the filiments, enough to move the focus off significantly, especially when you have a precision reflector and are casting a beam way down the road.  I never get flashed and folks aren't bashful about that around here.  And there are plenty of Harley riders around here with spots & headlights that blind in the daytime - you know they are flashed constantly so it's clear they don't care about offending.

BTW I have air suspension, and adjust the headlight cast at night by changing the air pressure.  That is, I crank it up to lower the lights at night, while I want the low beam more brilliant in the daytime for safety, so I drop the pressure.  Similarly, the GW1800 has phenomenal lights that light up the road much like the Valk, and I use it's preload for the same thing.

Caveat - If I'm using the high beam, I'm rolling.  So the wind is on the lens.  And with a std or tourer headlight bucket, there's wind around the reflector too - look at the construction - there's a gap between the outer shell and the headlight bezel, and there's a wire port in back to let the air pass through.  I have removed bugs from inside the shell many times.  I wouldn't want the high beam on if I was stopped, as it's not needed then, and I wouldn't want to forget to dim the light if someone came towards me.  Haven't ever been concerned about the heat after having used this bulb for many years.

[jmann]

Thanks for the info Mark. I know I am worrying about nothing but thats how I be with the bike. Don't want to hurt it. I may well look into the brighter bulb at a later time.

[JC]

NAPA carries the H4 bulb in 100/80.

The 100/80 bulb part number is BP1210/H4.

+1   

[Former BMW Guy]

Is it true that you would need a special ring adapter so that aftermarket H4 bulbs fit properly?

I ran across this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/251124692778?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

JP

[jmann]

Is it true that you would need a special ring adapter so that aftermarket H4 bulbs fit properly?

I ran across this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/251124692778?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

JP

Not that I am aware of. I have used 2 different bulbs and they fit like factory.

[Jess from VA]

Is it true that you would need a special ring adapter so that aftermarket H4 bulbs fit properly?

I ran across this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/251124692778?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

JP

The ring is supposed to hold the bulb better/tighter and straighter, after cutting the tabs off an automotive H4, but I could not get the rings and bulb back in my fairing together, so I left the rings out, and all is well, multiple bulbs later.  Many have done the same.  They are not necessary, at least for interstate.

[Ricky-D]

The rings allow for indexing on the flat side of the bulb base after cutting off the offending tabs.

If you cut the tabs and install the bulb without the ring you then depend upon the single tab to index the bulb in the proper position.

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