|
hondahead
|
 |
« on: August 20, 2012, 09:19:14 AM » |
|
With all the talk about ujoints on this board, are there any warning symptoms that a ujoint may fail? I only have 8,000 miles on my 2001 Interstate, but I swear I can feel a SLIGHT harmonic oscillation (fancy words for slight vibration), especially when not accelerating or decelerating hard. I already replaced the tires, and it seems to be at a faster rate than tires anyway.
The driveshaft has been off twice, once for hydrolock fix and once for rear driveshaft seal replacement.
Any thoughts??
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
tbone
|
|
« Reply #1 on: August 20, 2012, 09:33:50 AM » |
|
I had a slight vibration when just starting to coast. Usually felt it more when I would top a hill and let off throttle a little. ended up being u-joint. Not noticible in the bike but on the bench you could tell. probably would have lasted awhile. I ran about 2000 miles after I first noticed but we could not tell what it was. Thought it was pinion cup and splines but those were fine. Even though low miles you never know.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Ricky-D
|
|
« Reply #2 on: August 20, 2012, 12:26:03 PM » |
|
There have been quite a few threads on this particular subject lately. Search would reveal them.
The vibration you mention does not necessarily indicate a u-joint going bad.
A bad u-joint however, can and usually does cause this kind of vibration.
Jabba, can enlighten you regarding this kind of vibration.
***
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
|
|
|
art
Member
Posts: 2737
Grants Pass,Or
Grants Pass,Or
|
|
« Reply #3 on: August 20, 2012, 02:40:45 PM » |
|
Believe it or not,I had a vibration at high speed and it turned out to be a bent driveshaft.It was .030 out of straight.I put in a lathe at work and fixed it and got it too within about .005 and no more vibs.My valk had about 60000 miles on it.Just saying it don't hurt to check it out.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
hondahead
|
|
« Reply #5 on: August 20, 2012, 06:53:18 PM » |
|
Awesome advice, Thank you!! I'll take it apart tomorrow night and see what condition it's all in. This gives me an excuse to ride the old Honda for a week or two. I appreciate all the feedback, what a great forum!!!!!
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Thunderbolt
|
|
« Reply #6 on: August 21, 2012, 04:19:50 AM » |
|
Mine had the same symptoms that you mentioned, and it was starting to wear in one plane. When you are under light throttle as in riding over a small hill and going over the other side and let off a little to maintain your speed. I could feel it in my footpegs.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Jess from VA
|
|
« Reply #7 on: August 23, 2012, 09:52:19 AM » |
|
Started with vibration in the floorboards, shortly thereafter there was a grinding and crunching in the rear.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
hondahead
|
|
« Reply #8 on: August 24, 2012, 09:20:40 AM » |
|
Well, I have it apart and there is no stiffness or looseness in the joint itself, but there is a bit of slop in the spline / yoke that goes into the trans shaft, so I am going to replace the joint. The output shaft form the trans itself is tight, but when I slide the joint on by itself, there is some up-and-down "play" in the yoke. The fit on the driveshaft side feels nice and tight.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Thunderbolt
|
|
« Reply #9 on: August 24, 2012, 10:07:37 AM » |
|
Have you checked the wheel dampeners for wear and for play or looseness in the pinion cup? Might as well check it all since you are this far.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Ricky-D
|
|
« Reply #10 on: August 24, 2012, 10:32:38 AM » |
|
Well, I have it apart and there is no stiffness or looseness in the joint itself, but there is a bit of slop in the spline / yoke that goes into the trans shaft, so I am going to replace the joint. The output shaft form the trans itself is tight, but when I slide the joint on by itself, there is some up-and-down "play" in the yoke. The fit on the driveshaft side feels nice and tight.
That is the cause of "no load" vibration that gets worse with higher output shaft rpms. Usually 70 mph and higher. *** |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
|
|
|
Jabba
Member
Posts: 3563
VRCCDS0197
Greenwood Indiana
|
|
« Reply #11 on: August 25, 2012, 05:15:56 AM » |
|
That is the cause of "no load" vibration that gets worse with higher output shaft rpms. Usually 70 mph and higher.
+1 I am totally on board with this. Good luck. Jabba |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
hondahead
|
|
« Reply #12 on: August 27, 2012, 01:44:46 PM » |
|
Thanks, Parts ordered, by the way, what is a pinion cup??
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Jess from VA
|
|
« Reply #13 on: August 27, 2012, 01:51:09 PM » |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Jabba
Member
Posts: 3563
VRCCDS0197
Greenwood Indiana
|
|
« Reply #14 on: August 28, 2012, 09:28:36 AM » |
|
assemble with a little bit of anti-seize.
I don't think it's appropriate to use moly-lube or wheel bearing grease.
Jabba
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
hondahead
|
|
« Reply #15 on: October 03, 2012, 08:16:01 PM » |
|
Thanks all for the advice. I replaced the ujoint, the dampers and found one wheel bearing felt a little "graunchy", so I also changed both rear wheel bearings and now the vibration is completely gone!!! I'm surprised since the mileage on the bike is so low (10K), but as you all suggested, it is now perfect.
One surprise delayed the completion, the exhaust studs were breaking off as I reinstalled the muffler assemblies, I guess they were tired from being apart 3 times now, so I had to re-stud the bike (all 12 studs and new gaskets). An important lesson that I can share, is NEVER try to reintall the mufflers if the rear end is being held up by the lower chrome bars below the bags. It puts the muffler mounts out-of-place and puts too much pressure on the manifold bolts. By mounting the mufflers at the manifold first, then lowering the bike on the ground and THEN, mounting the two rear studs into the rear brackets stopped putting so much pressure on the manifold studs. THANKS again for all the advice, this forum makes me want to keep this bike FOREVER!!!!
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
