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« on: June 06, 2009, 11:25:05 AM » |
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Ok, I had a cage drift into my lane last week - honked my OEM horn and all it did was embarrass me.
Soooo...bought a Wolo Bad Boy. Hey, it only has two wires so should be no problem to install, right?
Well, I'm ok with wrenches, but electrical is my nemesis. The two wires from the horn disappear into a black hole bundle about 6 inches after they leave the immediate horn area. Where do they go? One to the button I guess but the other I have no idea...
Can anyone detail me as to where on the bike I install the 20 amp fuse, the provided relay, and hook the horn up? The only similar relay I see is under the right side cover but I don't think that powers the horn...but what the hell do I know.....
Help? Thanks Mike
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Thunderbolt
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« Reply #1 on: June 06, 2009, 02:37:35 PM » |
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but he has good diagrams for wiring up lights,and accesories. www.rattlebars.com But here is a simple explanation. The fuse is wired inline from the positive post of the battery to the input pin on your relay. There should be a wiring diagram either on the relay itself or the paperwork that you got with the unit. There will most likely be 4 or maybe five pins or male spade lugs. You will need to buy some female connectors and some wire and a crimping tool. Usually you can buy the whole kit of connectors and the crimper at your local auto parts store. You will need probably some #14 or #16 stranded wire. A roll of 10 or so feet will probably be enough. One pin will be ground, wire it to a circle connector and put it under a screw head that is grounded. One will be the trigger to operate the relay, this one you will need to either take the tank off and pull the original wire that has battery on it only when you press the horn button, or extend it back to the relay. The remaining pin will go to the 12V wire on the horn, this one will have 12V on it when the relay is operated from you pressing the horn button. You will also need to run the remaining wire from the new horn to ground. So your relay will have 12V through a fuse,ground to the frame,a trigger lead, and 12v out when operated. Sorry, I am not sure of the pin no.'s, though I think they will be something like 30,85,86,87, just not sure which is which without the schematic. If I can help further let me know or maybe someone will help us with the pin no.'s Try rattlebars site and see if it is up then and look for Chet's Valkyrie and a link to what he calls bunchaotherstuff.
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« Reply #2 on: June 06, 2009, 04:28:39 PM » |
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Really appreciate your help Thunderbolt. I have the wiring diagram for the relay, but I have a couple more questions.
Does the OEM horn terminate on a relay, and if so where is it? If not, how do I find the wire from the button - where does it terminate?
Is the relay that came with the horn a new installation or does it replace a different relay?
Sorry for being an electrical idiot, but I ask questions so I'm don't become an electrical victim...
Thanks, Mike
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Willow
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Excessive comfort breeds weakness. PttP
Olathe, KS
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« Reply #3 on: June 06, 2009, 04:36:30 PM » |
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The OEM horn has no relay because it draws little enough to not require it. The reason for adding a relay with add on horns is that they will burn out the horn switch if you pass the power for the horn through the switch.
The relay is connected to the horn button and the horn is powered separately on a line possibly directly from the battery through the relay.
That help?
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« Reply #4 on: June 06, 2009, 05:22:10 PM » |
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Thanks Willow.
Where does the OEM horn button wire terminate? I can't follow it as it's in the bundle.
Do I need to route new heavier gauge wiring to the button also?
Mike
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Willow
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Excessive comfort breeds weakness. PttP
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« Reply #5 on: June 06, 2009, 05:31:06 PM » |
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Mike, I took the easy way and picked it up at the OEM horn.
I'm not much of an electrical genius either.
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Thunderbolt
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« Reply #6 on: June 06, 2009, 05:43:34 PM » |
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http://www.rattlebars.com/mtz/basicrelay.htmlOne of the wires at the OEM location is just a ground. You can check it with a voltmeter set to read resistance or just a 12V test light. Put the test light clip on your battery positive post. Put the probe end on one of the two horn wires. One of them will light the light. The other wil not. Move the clip to the negative post on the battery or just a screw on the frame or engine that is grounded, put the probe end on the other wire and press the horn button with the key on and the light should come on each time you press the horn. This is the one that will trigger your relay. It will be a lot easier to trace the wires back if you take the tank off. The relay can be mounted under the right side cover or in the battery compartment, or any convenient location.
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Thunderbolt
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« Reply #7 on: June 06, 2009, 05:47:50 PM » |
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it still will have low current flow as it will only operate the relay. The relay is operated by low current, but switches high current from the battery,through the fuse,to the red lead or hot wire on your new horn.
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« Reply #8 on: June 06, 2009, 06:36:14 PM » |
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Thanks again TB. I think I have a vague idea how to go about this but I'm gonna wait for some downtime before I try it. Here in the Pacific Northwest you gotta take advantage of every good riding day and most likely this will be a semi-major project for me. I'm about guaranteed to foul something up along the way
Thanks for the help guys, much appreciated.
Mike
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Spirited-6
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« Reply #9 on: June 07, 2009, 05:34:30 PM » |
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Spirited-6
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« Reply #10 on: June 07, 2009, 06:24:32 PM » |
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Thanks Spirited. That's very helpful.
I have just one more question (for now) after reading that pdf. I know I have to use heavier gauge wire to the battery and compressor, but can I use the OEM horn button wiring to the relay without going to a larger gauge? Thanks all for the help
Mike
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Willow
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Excessive comfort breeds weakness. PttP
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« Reply #11 on: June 07, 2009, 06:38:04 PM » |
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Yes.
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« Reply #12 on: June 07, 2009, 06:52:22 PM » |
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Thanks 
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