YoungPUP
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« on: September 02, 2012, 09:22:42 PM » |
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When I did fork seals a few months back I noticed a few nicks in the chrome on the right front fork leg chrome, bad enough to catch a fingernail in. I smoothed them best I could with the knowledge that this was a patch and that I would need to replace the right leg or the chrome slider part. Has anyone replaced the right slider, how hard is it or at about $300 ish for the slider or $550 ish for a used set of pinwall forks with triple tree should I just go the salvage route? Not a now project by any means, but will be on my winter list.
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Yea though I ride through the valley of the Shadow of Death I shall fear no evil. For I ride the Baddest Mother F$#^er In that valley!
99 STD (Under construction)
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JaysGone
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« Reply #1 on: September 02, 2012, 10:16:26 PM » |
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I rebuilt my Valk mainly with PinWall parts. Just a word to the wise. They sell working parts.............. Some you would expect to be cosmetically perfect. Look very closely at the pictures that go with the item. You do get what they look like. Cosmetically scatched dented etc, but 100% usable.
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1999 Valk - SOLD 2005 Yamaha RoadStar 2010 GoldWing with Motor Trike Kit
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olddog1946
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« Reply #2 on: September 03, 2012, 07:34:16 AM » |
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I don't know about pinwall parts, they sell a lot of beat up junk and although I have bought a few things from them (tool kit for the valk) I would be very leary of a set of forks, unless they could show and warranty the run out on them to be withing specs.
Let's face it, these are wrecked bikes and have not had the gentlest care.
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VRCC # 32473 US AIR FORCE E7, Retired 1965-1988 01 Valk Std. 02 BMW k1200LTE 65 Chevelle coupe, 1986 Mazda RX-7 with 350/5spd, 1983 Mazda RX-7 with FOMOCO 302/AOD project, 95 Mustang GT Convertible 5.0, 5 spd Moses Lake, Wa. 509-760-6382 if you need help
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Dodis
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Posts: 251
'98 Blue & Cream
Texas City, TX
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« Reply #3 on: September 03, 2012, 07:56:51 AM » |
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Wow, you are in luck! I just happen to have a NEW right fork slider tube that I didn't have to install. Still wrapped in plastic. When I was fighting my leaking fork, I ordered it from Fast From the Past. With their 6-8 week productiona nd shipping, I had time to rebuild my fork again, and I made my scrap wood press to seat the seal and the leak went away, so I did not install the slider. Here is where I ordered it: http://www.fastfromthepast.com/servlet/the-1631/Honda-1500-F6C-1997/DetailAnd the only other part I believe you need is the crush washer (and might as well get the bolt) parts #25 & 26 on the fiche. http://www.hdlparts.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=2136817&category=Motorcycles&make=HONDA&year=1998&fveh=124887How about $175 shipped? Mike "Dodis" mr _ dodis at yahoo dot com
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VRCC# 27132 mr_dodis(a)yahoo.com DS#513 GY-TT 205/60 (still waiting for my cookie!)
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JaysGone
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« Reply #4 on: September 03, 2012, 08:05:07 AM » |
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I don't know about pinwall parts, they sell a lot of beat up junk and although I have bought a few things from them (tool kit for the valk) I would be very leary of a set of forks, unless they could show and warranty the run out on them to be withing specs.
Let's face it, these are wrecked bikes and have not had the gentlest care.
The parts are guarrentied to be 100% functional. Key word functional. Not cosmetically perfect. In their defense they do give a pretty good amount of pictures and point out any known faults before hand. As Im sure your aware of with Valks and insurance companies. The insurance company would rather write you a check for the bikes Blue Book value then even attempt to repair the simpelist of dammages due the availability and cost of the parts new. Most body parts new for the Valk are pretty much non existant. Especially for a 10 year old plus bike. Dump it, scratch up a hard bag or fairing a little, even dent the gas tank. They will total it. Im thankfull PinWall is even out there as its the best source for used parts.
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1999 Valk - SOLD 2005 Yamaha RoadStar 2010 GoldWing with Motor Trike Kit
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YoungPUP
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« Reply #5 on: September 03, 2012, 10:30:30 AM » |
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My only concern is changing the slider itself. HDL shows the lower as part of the slider so I'm guessing that doesn't come off. What about tools for tearing the thing All the way apart?
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Yea though I ride through the valley of the Shadow of Death I shall fear no evil. For I ride the Baddest Mother F$#^er In that valley!
99 STD (Under construction)
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Dodis
Member
    
Posts: 251
'98 Blue & Cream
Texas City, TX
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« Reply #6 on: September 03, 2012, 10:38:08 AM » |
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It would have to be two pieces, the slider is chromed steel and the lower is cast aluminum.
And the part I have does not have the slider atttached.
Mike "Dodis"
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VRCC# 27132 mr_dodis(a)yahoo.com DS#513 GY-TT 205/60 (still waiting for my cookie!)
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YoungPUP
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« Reply #7 on: September 03, 2012, 10:43:08 AM » |
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That makes sense. Wonder how that comes off?
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Yea though I ride through the valley of the Shadow of Death I shall fear no evil. For I ride the Baddest Mother F$#^er In that valley!
99 STD (Under construction)
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Dodis
Member
    
Posts: 251
'98 Blue & Cream
Texas City, TX
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« Reply #8 on: September 03, 2012, 10:50:57 AM » |
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The screw and washer #25 & 26 on the fiche are holding it, and when I get back home, I'll see if I can find the removal steps again. I think the slide then screws out, if I recall...
If you have the Honda shop manual handy, might be there too.
Mike.
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VRCC# 27132 mr_dodis(a)yahoo.com DS#513 GY-TT 205/60 (still waiting for my cookie!)
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YoungPUP
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« Reply #9 on: September 03, 2012, 06:44:53 PM » |
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Went through the Honda manual ( thanks Dag!) and the screw and washer are a drain plug of sorts for the fork oil in the damper. Nothing there for pulling the lowers.
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Yea though I ride through the valley of the Shadow of Death I shall fear no evil. For I ride the Baddest Mother F$#^er In that valley!
99 STD (Under construction)
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Dodis
Member
    
Posts: 251
'98 Blue & Cream
Texas City, TX
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« Reply #10 on: September 03, 2012, 08:56:28 PM » |
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Well, as usual, I won't find the info I had about removing the lower till you are finished...  But I did bring in the slider tube and get pics of each end. The tube just screws into the lower, just don't know if there is any locking compound involved (might require some heat to remove).  And of course, the seal mounting groove on the top end.  Mike "Dodis"
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VRCC# 27132 mr_dodis(a)yahoo.com DS#513 GY-TT 205/60 (still waiting for my cookie!)
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Gryphon Rider
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Posts: 5227
2000 Tourer
Calgary, Alberta
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« Reply #11 on: September 05, 2012, 02:31:54 PM » |
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I wonder if the pits can be filled with something akin to JB Weld? It might not look as good as a shiny new slider tube, but it might make it sealable.
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YoungPUP
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« Reply #12 on: September 05, 2012, 05:16:13 PM » |
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I'd thought of that, and you woouldnt be able to see it as they are behind the now installed rock guards. My only concern is that when the bike is sitting at rest the pits are right where the dust seal sits, so while riding with my fat a$$ on it they will Constantly be in and out of the seals. May give it a try. Got nothing to lose at this point.
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Yea though I ride through the valley of the Shadow of Death I shall fear no evil. For I ride the Baddest Mother F$#^er In that valley!
99 STD (Under construction)
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Jeff K
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« Reply #13 on: September 05, 2012, 06:18:50 PM » |
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The sliders are loctited in. they come out fine with a bit of heat. I had my lowers chromed and had to remove them. And years later had to remove them again to replace the leaky right tube. I just heated with a heat gun, a big ass heat gun, stuck a bar through the hole in the tube an twisted it out. I put it back together with blue locktite. 
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