Drastic idle change after carb job.

[DavidT]

Hey all,

So I did a carb job (3 plugged slow jets), got it all back together and it starts and runs fine, (actually, really, really well) BUT the idle went to hell.  I have to pull the choke way high to keep it running.  I can drop the choke if I turn the idle adjusting screw 10 or 15...20 turns.  I figure something went wrong, I just don't know what.

As a side, the exhaust seems to be a bit smokey, but I was also running quite a bit of SeaFoam in that tank so I'm not sure if that's the issue.

Thoughts?  Suggestions?  Did I mess up an initial setting somewhere?

Thanks,
David

[mmurffy03]

did you install stock slow jets?

[Hook#3287]

David;

I've done the carb slow jet change three, four times and the idle was never different when I put it back together.   Did you adjust the idle jets?   I don't remember the turns from set after you install the 38's  (if that's what you did?) but do a search here and you'll find it.    Try rechecking the cable hook up's to make sure the cable lock nuts are in the correct place.

Bet it's something simple.

Does the throttle return when you let the grip go?

I wouldn't worry about the smoke, unless it continues after you take her out and thrash her.

Good luck

Hook

[fordmano]

ClearLake? CA,?

Altitude? Pilots might be too far out?
Have you synched the carbs yet?
Did you change 3 jets or all of them? Or did you just clean them? 3 or all?
You say runs really well? That confuses me a bit, if its running well then you shouldn't have a problem that you would need to ask a question about right?

Not trying to be an ARSE, just confused and trust me I confuse myself enough I don't have room for others to confuse me.
Plugs?
Intake O-rings?
All 18 screws tight on rubber connections at intake runners?
Air box mods?
Air filter clean, new, cleaned up? Stock or K&N with or without foam prefilter?

I am thinking initial settings are bad and or you still have a bad/dirty jet.
Is idle smooth have you ridden it yet?
The questions are endless. How about a video with audio of the problems happening. So we can tell the RPM ranges and how much smoke your getting and is it on both sides?

[Ricky-D]

Hey all,

So I did a carb job (3 plugged slow jets), got it all back together and it starts and runs fine, (actually, really, really well) BUT the idle went to hell.  I have to pull the choke way high to keep it running.  I can drop the choke if I turn the idle adjusting screw 10 or 15...20 turns.  I figure something went wrong, I just don't know what.

As a side, the exhaust seems to be a bit smokey, but I was also running quite a bit of SeaFoam in that tank so I'm not sure if that's the issue.

Thoughts?  Suggestions?  Did I mess up an initial setting somewhere?

Thanks,
David

Did you do the job "off the bike" or "on the bike"?

***

[Blackduck]

When you say it idles if you reset the idle screw, does it stay steady then or varies?
Sounds like an air leak. Check all hoses,caps and intake runner boots, particularly where the airfilter runners attach to the carbs. Did you have trouble refitting the airfilter assembly?
Cheers Steve

[Hook#3287]

Did you have trouble refitting the airfilter assembly?

Doesn't everyone?

 

[DavidT]

Reply to all, by the numbers:

- I've also done a carb job before and don't remember this happening.
- One adder: I did a stealth de-smog with the redeye kit but I don't think that should effect this.
- Also, I replaced my old vacuum lines (what's left to replace after the de-smog) with new silicone lines.  This does bring up a question though.  The de-smog kit says to remove the lines (and plug the nipples) that go between 3 and 4 intake.  I did that, but that leaves the "10" nipple open on the...I don't know what the hell it's called.  It should be an orphan nipple now, but it was odd to leave it open.
- Yes, re-installed stock slow jets.  2 were clogged completely, a third was almost plugged.  I removed and cleaned all 6 (as well as all 6 fast jets)
- I'm not sure what an idle jet is.  I cleaned and re-installed the air mix screws (2 1/4 turns) if that's what you're referring to.  Not sure what else has 'turns'.
- The cable hook ups is kinda what I'm thinking went wrong, but I don't know what the 'right' place is for them.  Where are they supposed to be set to be at 'zero'
- Clear Lake, Tx.  If I was anymore sea level, I'd have to have floaties.
- It runs really well as in starts at first crank, no hesitation on rev, bike rpm's drop if I unplug a sparkplug wire (which it wasn't doing when the slow jets were clogged).
- No, the throttle doesn't snap back like I'd like it to...but I never really has.
- Haven't sync'd the carbs yet.  I'm picking up the sync gauges tomorrow.
- Screws are tight on air box, but will re-check them.  No airbox mods.
- Intake 0-rings were all in very good shape, cleaned and re-installed.
- Air filter is K&N and was nice and clean.
- Idle is very smooth but haven't taken it out yet.  The rain was not playing well...
- I did the job off the bike
- If I re-set the idle screw back where it started from, the bike will die.  I'll recheck all the air fittings.  And don't you always have trouble refitting the airbox.  

I REALLY don't want to take that damn tank off.  With the belly tank I installed, taking the main tank off is a bitch...

Thanks for the help all.

[Blackduck]

The #10 nipple in which parts drawing?
Cheers Steve

[Chiefy]

I don't understand "10 nipple" but 5 carbs should be blocked, and the 6th goes to the petcock.


What shape is your tank in?  Any chance you dragged some deposits into the new jets?  It does happen....

[Hook#3287]

I'm not sure what an idle jet is.  I cleaned and re-installed the air mix screws (2 1/4 turns) if that's what you're referring to.

Yep, that's the thingy's I meant. 

Yes, re-installed stock slow jets. 

My experience with using original slows is not good.    Back when they started putting corn in the gas and our carbed bikes started sputtering, I went COMPLETLY thru my bike trying to find the problem.

The first thing I did was take the carb bank out and CLEAN the slow jets.  Soaked em good and long and cleaned them good.  Put it back together and same crappy running/idle.

Then I changed EVERYTHING.  Plugs, intake o-rings, exhaust o-rings, the list goes on and on.  I synced 3 or 4 times, nothing changed.

The next winter, I changed the slows to NEW 38's.

Problem solved.

No, the throttle doesn't snap back like I'd like it to...but I never really has.

When running, the throttle should snap back when let go.

[DavidT]

The #10 nipple in which parts drawing?
Cheers Steve

http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/GL1/gl23.jpg

The 11 to 7 connection at the top of the drawing

[DavidT]

The next winter, I changed the slows to NEW 38's.

Problem solved.

No, the throttle doesn't snap back like I'd like it to...but I never really has.

When running, the throttle should snap back when let go.

Yeah, if I have to go in again, I'm changing them to 38's...

I do understand it should snap back, but I'm not sure what to do to fix it.

[Hook#3287]

thought it was de-smogged?

[DavidT]

thought it was de-smogged?

Stealth kit keeps most of the hardware in place.

[Hook#3287]

David;

That number 11 should have been removed in the de-smog.  At least I have three sitting on my shelf.  I'm not familiar with "red-eye's" de-smog kit.

Like Chiefy stated, the "Nipples" on the back of all the carbs except #6 should be blocked.  If not, that would be a problem.

Also, all the chrome pipping should have been removed and the holes plugged, or as I did, just plug the ends of the chrome pipes.  I don't believe this will effect the bike running if not done, but needs to be done.

[Hook#3287]

Stealth kit keeps most of the hardware in place.

Ah-ha hence "Stealth"

[Hook#3287]

if it's not hooked up to any thing (Reed Valves) or as long as the reed valves are disconnected from the engine, that shouldn't effect anything.   Don't think it has anything to do with idle speed

[Hook#3287]

[Like Chiefy stated, the "Nipples" on the back of all the carbs except #6 should be blocked.  If not, that would be a problem./quote]


I meant INTAKES,  not carbs

[DavidT]

Someone send me the dumb-ass award.  I found it.  Not sure if I should be happy or not (I'm going with 'happy') but it was what I thought it may be.  The cabling (sort of).  I missed the Number 5 carb choke attachment when I put that slider back on.  Got 1 and 3, missed 5.  It was keeping 5 from choking and making 1 and 3 way more open (since the tab was sitting on 5's attachment point).  Re-set that slider and dialed the idle adjuster way back down.

Thanks for the pointers all. 

[Hook#3287]

Cool

something simple 

Now go thrash the smoke outa her

[fordmano]

Most Excellent!!!

Yep, ClearLake TX. Is just about flush with the fluids.

Really glad you found it, I am still having carb issues also. Gonna put mine back together and flogg the farkle out of her soon! See if that clears her out at all.

[salty1]

I did the same stealth desmog on my 97 STD, it worked well. Be sure and followi up with the carb synchronization and she'll run even better.  

[Hoser]

Someone send me the dumb-ass award.  I found it.  Not sure if I should be happy or not (I'm going with 'happy') but it was what I thought it may be.  The cabling (sort of).  I missed the Number 5 carb choke attachment when I put that slider back on.  Got 1 and 3, missed 5.  It was keeping 5 from choking and making 1 and 3 way more open (since the tab was sitting on 5's attachment point).  Re-set that slider and dialed the idle adjuster way back down.

Thanks for the pointers all. 

Just for general information, The "idle screw" that you keep mentioning is not the proper way to adjust the idle rpm.  The throttle adjust knob is on the right side between the front and middle carb. It is a quarter turn knob meant for finger use. Glad you found your problem.  Hoser