WayneH
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« on: October 20, 2012, 12:37:31 AM » |
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I'm going to sell my Valk. Mechanically, it is in very good shape Cosmetically, it has suffered from constant use in the tropical environment. Basically, I could use information on the following. I'm not trying to make it perfect, just look as good as possible, given the condition it is in. Valkyries are very rare here... less than 10 in the city, and this bike should fetch me between USD 10,000 and USD 12,000. a) My Kury grips are a mess. Kury is not interested in replacing them. I will probably replace with stock because of price. But, I am concerned about how to best remove the right grip... left grip should be no problem. The right grip was glued with the glue Jury supplied to the throttle sleeve. Am I going to have to cut this off? Remove the endcap and try to loosen it with alcohol? Tips appreciated.  b) From the same pic, you can see a lot of aluminium oxidation on the switch housing, What’s the best way to deal with oxidize aluminium, especially if I don’t want to have to take everything apart and put into some sort of bath? Also, kill switch is discoloured. I see I can’t buy it as a separate unit. Any recommendations for making it look better? c) The master cylinders for clutch and brake are also oxidized. Again any recommendations for making these look better without disassembly? Also, you can see rust on throttle cable connections. Besides fine sandpaper or aluminum foil, anything else that can be done?  d) The chrome on plastic turn signals and on tach and speedo housings is pitted. Anything that can be done to make this look better? For chrome on metal, I've found that rubbing with aluminum foil works quite well but I don't want to try on these pieces without advice.   e) You don't know how many times, I've caught people sitting on my bike, shooting photos. The white scratches below are one result, and they appear to be scratched through the jade. Will a Colorrite touch up pen work here, or will it look "fiddled with", and am I better off just leaving it as is? f) While we are talking about Colorrite, if I order the pens, do I need to order a clear coat cover as well?  g) The marks on my bags were made by inconsiderate scumbags who rubbed against my bike in the motorcycle parking lots. Again, can Colorrite be used to make this look decent or am I better off selling as is?  Bottom line: Going to clean rust from chromed metal parts as best I can, polish, then put a coat of urethane clear coat to protect from more rust. Going to use aluminum foil to clean as best I can... worked pretty well for some parts I tried. Will buy a few heavily rusted parts like brake line clips on front fender. Will paint insides of windshield a grey or chrome since it wasn't chromed in the first place. But, need to understand best options for dealing with paint, with chromed plastic parts that are pitted, and with oxidized aluminum. Many thanks.
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jimmyk
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Posts: 23
99 std.
Stuart Florida
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« Reply #1 on: October 20, 2012, 03:01:47 AM » |
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i have removed grips in the past with wd40...good luck
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BIG--T
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Posts: 3002
1998 Standard, 2000 Interstate
The Twilight Zone
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« Reply #2 on: October 20, 2012, 03:52:05 AM » |
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It doesn't sound like you may live in the US. I wish you well but I don't think you'll ever see $10-$12,000 for a Standard or Tourer....but do wish you the best. I have removed SOME rust with a sos pad, polish and buffing. The pitting on the plastic I don't think you can fix but others may know. Kury would never replace the grips... even if they are new unless defective. I take mine off by removing the caps and inserting a hacksaw blade, spray a little WD-40 and work your way around it. When I put new on, I wrap masking tape and borrow a little of my wife's super hold hair spray a lightly spray on and let sit over night. Good luck! 
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Hoser
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Posts: 5844
child of the sixties VRCC 17899
Auburn, Kansas
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« Reply #3 on: October 20, 2012, 05:17:51 AM » |
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They don't do well living outside, I don't know what to tell you to do, it looks pretty rough. Hoser ???
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I don't want a pickle, just wanna ride my motor sickle  [img width=300 height=233]http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/
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dreamchaser
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« Reply #5 on: October 20, 2012, 10:14:07 AM » |
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First off, where are you? The tropical environment that helped your bike deteriorate like this could be the key to restoration. PM or email if you feel it is best. Gary
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Challenger
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« Reply #6 on: October 20, 2012, 03:28:13 PM » |
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Wow! That Valk looks like she's been living in Singapore or somewhere.  Anyway, most of what I see can be cleaned up with SOS pads or steel wool, Some of it will need 800 grit sandpaper. when smoothed, buffed with rubbing compound and then polished with chrome cleaner. The grips can be removed and the rubber inserts taken out, smooth and paint the housing (probably black), clean the rubber parts and reinstall in grip. However you clean this monster up, it will not be long lived unless the new owner stays on top of the detailing. Good luck.
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« Last Edit: October 21, 2012, 08:34:42 AM by Challenger »
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salty1
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Posts: 2359
"Flyka"
Spokane, WA or Tucson, AZ
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« Reply #7 on: October 21, 2012, 06:06:37 PM » |
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Your will need to disassemble a lot of those rusted part so they can be immersed in something like Evaporust. If there not pitted badly, you'll be surprised how well this works. The aluminum parts need to be stripped of clear coat (paint stripper) and then polished. You will need to change out the throttle cables. Been there and done that! Your bike does look pretty rough, good luck.
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My rides: 1998 GL1500C, 2000 GL 1500CF,2006 GL 1800 3A  
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BF
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« Reply #8 on: October 21, 2012, 06:19:55 PM » |
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ColorRite pens will probably work for you.....but do order and use the clear coat pens as well. I've touched up a couple not so noticable places on the bottom side of my tank with the ColorRite pens......I used the clear coat pens too and would recommend you use them too.
Chrome such as on your speedo, tach and turn signals and the like will probably clean up really great with White Diamond metal polish. The stuff works wonders.
Even if you think they're pitted, you'll be surprised at how much they'll clean up and shine. Try it on ALL your chrome.....even the chromed plastic parts.
I'm not sure about you master cylinders.....the White Diamond probably won't help you on those.
As for your switches and switch housings......you're best bet probably would be to just replace them. Check with Pinwall on ebay.
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« Last Edit: October 21, 2012, 06:22:30 PM by BF »
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I can't help about the shape I'm in I can't sing, I ain't pretty and my legs are thin But don't ask me what I think of you I might not give the answer that you want me to 
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #9 on: October 21, 2012, 08:09:56 PM » |
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I think the reservoir control housings are heavily clear coated. Only way to get to the metal is to remove the clear coat first. I have done it with carburetor cleaner but don't know if it will work on that thick coating, and you don't want the overspray all over the bike.
The best tool to remove grips is an ice pick. Remove end caps, and carefully work it between the throttle sleeve or left bar and grip, slide the thin nozzle of a can of WD40 or any solvent next to the ice pic and spray while drawing the nozzle out.
Bombs Away metal polish (or White Diamond) will clean up a lot of your bare metal and bolt heads.... but it will take a lot of work. Maybe as much as if you had kept up with it during the bikes lifetime.
Steel wool your rotors.
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cookiedough
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« Reply #10 on: October 23, 2012, 08:24:23 AM » |
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0000 steel wool does help on chrome rusting issues with your favorite chrome cleaner product. It will not look new, but good enough to not hate the looks.
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vanagon40
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« Reply #11 on: October 24, 2012, 07:18:54 AM » |
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Wow! That Valk looks like she's been living in Singapore or somewhere.  . . . . I'm laying 3 to 1 it is Singapore.
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mmurffy03
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Posts: 791
03 standard
toms river new jersey
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« Reply #12 on: October 24, 2012, 11:21:26 AM » |
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10-12 grand really .....im going to look at a 98 standard tomorrow here in nj and the guy says after he bought the bike he put 26 grand and 3500 hours of his own labor in it its on ebay he started at 12.500 and is now at buy it now for 7700.00 bucks it looks damm good
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MarcusS
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Posts: 311
New To Me August 2013
North Houston
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« Reply #13 on: October 24, 2012, 12:05:39 PM » |
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My starter light switch went out a couple of weeks ago on my 98 standard and while I had the throtel assembly appart waiting on the switch assy, I started to play with trying to take the ugly out of my covers and fluid reserviors. They were in bad shape. The reserviors had chipped and pitted clear coat and looked rotten. The covers were just dull. The majic I cam up with was 000# steel wool with carb cleaner sprayed in it. The damp wool cleaned and pollished everything with it mounted on the bike. I then picked up a 3" cotton polshing wheel kit for a drill and buffet out the pits using a mild clay stick aprasive. The photo of your reservoir shows the clear coat has been long gone and also shows the top and body are of different Alumium alloys. I also found a secret in my garage left by my son. Meguires Aluminum rim pollish. This stuf puts a mirror finish on quick. you can disconnect the reservoirs from the bars fairly easy to buff the back side without any real effort. I coated my covers with a clear acrylic to keep them looking new but have not coated my reserviors to see how they age. Looking at yours, I need to seal them up pretty quick. Im in Houston. Steel wool and aluminum rim polish work great. Im glad I cleaned up the left cover assy cause the new starter/light switch assy comes with new electro polished covers for the right side. I also put in a light relay to save the new switch and allow me to up the power of my light. I thought 70$ was alot for a switch till I saw it included the whole kit. Don't be too shocked when ytou find out the brake line clips cost $35 each.
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Life goes on whether you are in it for the ride or not.
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Oss
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Posts: 12640
The lower Hudson Valley
Ossining NY Chapter Rep VRCCDS0141
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« Reply #14 on: October 24, 2012, 06:34:57 PM » |
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Challenger nailed it Wayne Herbert formerly known as Strong Eagle indeed lives in Singapore and that jade bike has seen some tropical abuse for sure
+1 on the bon ami
In the past I have used naval jelly and an old toothbrush on my 57's chrome and it did a fine job but wear gloves the stuff is pretty strong Dont let it anywhere near the paint !
Good luck SE what ya gonna get now, a harley?
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« Last Edit: October 24, 2012, 06:40:08 PM by Oss »
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If you don't know where your going any road will take you there George Harrison
When you come to the fork in the road, take it Yogi Berra (Don't send it to me C.O.D.)
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DLSSOJC
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« Reply #15 on: October 26, 2012, 08:12:44 AM » |
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10-12 grand really .....im going to look at a 98 standard tomorrow here in nj and the guy says after he bought the bike he put 26 grand and 3500 hours of his own labor in it its on ebay he started at 12.500 and is now at buy it now for 7700.00 bucks it looks damm good
I saw that same bike for sale online and it looks very nice in pics. Let us know what it looks like in person and if you end up buying it. 
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WayneH
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« Reply #16 on: October 30, 2012, 09:42:58 AM » |
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Folks, thank you for all the good advice. I'll post the "after" pics... it's coming along nicely. Yes, much outside riding and parking in the rain and sun. And with extensive travel (I traveled at least 3 days every week for one full year - out to the airport every Sunday night), I didn't get to do the maintenance needed.
It really will sell for the money I mentioned... there are only 10 or so in Singapore... bikes are expensive here... big BMW's and Duc's sell used for above SGD 40,000 (about 80 percent the value of the USD).
One question: Starting work on the wheels tomorrow. Angle grinder with a pad and white abrasive/polish... two pads, actually... a brown one that is very stiff for first application, and a softer white one. I have this block of white polish/abrasive. I’ve never worked with this stuff before. What’s the best way? Spin the pad and rub it in, then apply to the metal?
Any tips on this process are greatly appreciated.
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BF
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« Reply #17 on: October 30, 2012, 10:51:23 AM » |
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When I cleaned mine up, I used a Mothers Power Ball and White Diamond.
Finished up by hand polishing with more White Diamond.
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I can't help about the shape I'm in I can't sing, I ain't pretty and my legs are thin But don't ask me what I think of you I might not give the answer that you want me to 
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Led
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« Reply #18 on: October 30, 2012, 03:10:59 PM » |
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Challenger
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« Reply #19 on: October 30, 2012, 04:36:25 PM » |
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You are on the money with application, run the pad and let the rouge melt into it, then buff on the wheel, don't let it burn onto the rim. When the pad gets caked, I usually take an old screw driver to it while its running and bring the nap back up.
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WayneH
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« Reply #20 on: November 17, 2012, 10:26:53 PM » |
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Gentlemen, Thanks for all the tips. You've seen the 'before' pictures... here are a couple of the 'after' pictures. It took a lot a sweat and elbow grease, along with an angle grinder, polishing wheel, and an abrasive stick. Thanks to Carl for the almost new grips... they made quite a difference. I also put new turn signals on the front, and new lenses on the back. I left the paint as is, figuring that the next owner can deal with it. Almost all the chrome cleaned up very well with aluminum foil and water... took a lot of scrubbing but looks good. I painted the starter motor black (an overly enthusiastic helper rubbed the finish off completely, allowing rust), and I painted the inside of the windshield brackets bright silver. I sold this bike for SGD 12,000... that's USD 9,770... I could have got more but I had an immediate buyer and time is running short. Again, thanks to all who offered advice.   
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Challenger
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« Reply #21 on: November 18, 2012, 09:29:04 AM » |
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That looks great compared to the before pictures, Glad you didn't give up on her and sell it as it was, Your effort paid off.
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wiggydotcom
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Posts: 3387
Do Your Best and Miss the Rest!
Yorkville, Illinois
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« Reply #22 on: November 18, 2012, 05:48:06 PM » |
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Your "After" pics were as impressive as your "Befores" weren't! Does that make sense? 
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VRCC #10177 VRCCDS #239 
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WayneH
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« Reply #23 on: November 19, 2012, 01:51:16 AM » |
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Your "After" pics were as impressive as your "Befores" weren't! Does that make sense?  Makes perfect sense. It was in poor condition. The chrome has small pock marks but otherwise is now shined, polished, and sealed.
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Willow
Administrator
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Posts: 16651
Excessive comfort breeds weakness. PttP
Olathe, KS
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« Reply #24 on: November 19, 2012, 02:42:43 PM » |
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Looks like a success story, Wayne.
The proceeds from that sale should get you a nice Interstate stateside and leave you with a jingle still in your pocket.
Welcome back soon to the U. S. of A.
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Gary
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« Reply #25 on: November 20, 2012, 07:50:06 AM » |
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Wow, great improvement and congrats on the timely turnover. 
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rayvin57
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« Reply #26 on: November 21, 2012, 08:02:26 AM » |
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HUGE difference in the before and after pics! Nice work. So we're all waiting to hear--what new ride, if any, are you moving on to?
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WayneH
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« Reply #27 on: November 21, 2012, 09:35:15 PM » |
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HUGE difference in the before and after pics! Nice work. So we're all waiting to hear--what new ride, if any, are you moving on to?
Probably another Valk... I keep trying other bikes but they don't match up to the Valk. 1800 Wing comes very close, though. I'll keep the heavy bike until I can't hold it up any more.
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #28 on: November 22, 2012, 07:23:26 AM » |
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I'll keep the heavy bike until I can't hold it up any more. Hey Wayne, that's not something you need to worry about as long as your balance sense is good and active. The larger problem is: Can you upright the bike if it falls over onto the crash bars.....Haven't had to do that particular thing lately (pick up the bike) but I'm starting to wonder if I will still be able to do it. ***
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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