99 with carb problems

[Daver]

A couple of years ago I purchased Wingman's 99 Valkrie, didn't get to ride it much and it sat for better than a year. To start I drained the tank and put in fresh fuel with a whole bottle of seafoam.  I've let it soak, turned it over, dumped the bowls, refilled, let it soak some more a couple of times but it wont run. It seems to be firing on 3 cylinders.  Now I'm looking at going in to the carbs to see how much gunk is in there. After reading numerous posts about jets and plugged carbs I'm wondering if I should just go for a total rebuild or just put in some #38's. Anyone with any thoughts or suggestions on the best way to get me back on the road would be appreciated....
Daver

[9Ball]

definitely plugged slow jets....buy new instead of trying to clean them.

Good time to replace hoses, vacuum caps and o-rings while you're in there.

[Daver]

Thanks, I'll go that way, should I go with the #38's. I think it still has #35's in there... was running good before I plugged it up...
Just drop the bowls, spray carb cleaner and pop them in?  Is there a kit for the vacuum caps and O rings?

[salty1]

definitely plugged slow jets....buy new instead of trying to clean them.

Good time to replace hoses, vacuum caps and o-rings while you're in there.

+1, should fix ya right up! With the 38's turn your pilots out between 1.75 and 2 turns. Don't forget to synchronize the carbs after you get it back together.

[mmurffy03]

redeye tech has all the gaskets and 0 rings sutco has the jets starts easier and with less choke with the 38s installed on my bike

[Daver]

Thanks for the lead, will get the 38's, sounds like everyone is happy with them....
Daver

[valky1500]

A couple of years ago I purchased Wingman's 99 Valkrie, didn't get to ride it much and it sat for better than a year. To start I drained the tank and put in fresh fuel with a whole bottle of seafoam.  I've let it soak, turned it over, dumped the bowls, refilled, let it soak some more a couple of times but it wont run. It seems to be firing on 3 cylinders.  Now I'm looking at going in to the carbs to see how much gunk is in there. After reading numerous posts about jets and plugged carbs I'm wondering if I should just go for a total rebuild or just put in some #38's. Anyone with any thoughts or suggestions on the best way to get me back on the road would be appreciated....
Daver

If my bikes sat that long, after all of that soaking and dumping you did, and then wouldn't start right up, I would be loss as to where to look next. Without first making sure it had a new set of and properly adjusted spark plugs before even trying, how could I ever expect it to start up again after all of that is beyond me.  

[Daver]

Right, forgot to mention that, put 6 new ones in when I put in the new fuel and seafoam, also charged the battery, trying to start with choke and no choke...

[valky1500]

Right, forgot to mention that, put 6 new ones in when I put in the new fuel and seafoam, also charged the battery, trying to start with choke and no choke...

OK and with all of that out of the way I would next look to see if there was really any sparking at the plugs going on or not. 

[John Schmidt]

If you try to change the slow jets by merely dropping the bowls, you will use language your mama didn't teach you. Pull the carb as a complete set, be sure to drain them first, then turn them upside down on the bench and go to work. It won't take long before you'll understand why trying to drop the bowls with the carbs in place is not a good approach.

By the way, to order slow jets the company name is Sudco, believe the phone is: 310-637-8330. At least it was a few months back. Tell them the N424 # first, then for the #38's you want the 019-006.  That list below is a copy/paste from their website. Here's a link to their website in case you want to browse, but it will eventually lead you to the list below, it will be part of a large page of jets listed. http://www.sudco.com/

N424-21-xxx
Order NoSize
019-005 35
019-006 38
019-007 40
019-008 42
019-009 45

[Daver]

For the record, checked spark, pulled each wire loose and used an old plug grounded, all sparked fine.
Thanks for the advice on pulling the whole set, I am new to this and figured the less I took off the less I would have to get right putting back.  If it's a pain to get at then putting it on the bench would probaly be better in the long run. I'll tear them all the way down and get everything cleaned out better that way too.  Guess I'll have to invest in some vacuum guages to sync them, have read some posts on that and would rather have 6 to do it. What kind of gauge works well with out costing too much?
Thanks again for the input
Daver

[fordmano]

Suggestion,,,, if you decide to leave the carbs in place to work on them I have done it this way and its not so bad.
Pull the intakes runners off then pull the bowls off (only one bank at  atime or even more ideal is one carb at a tiome) this leaves a fare amount of room to get a good size set of hands under them.
They are much easier to move jets in and out off the bike but if you only do one side at a time my optional suggestion really does work.


EDIT: after seeing your last post I would agree that total removal is the only way if your planning on doing a full rebuild instead of just swapping jets...

[Daver]

Decisions decisions... would rather just do the slow jets if I was sure that would get me going but now I'm wondering just how badly they are gunked up and if that will do the trick...

[valky1500]

If replacing them for another size is at issue, then it's true they can be done while on the bike. But if you suspect them to be dirty and want to take a look, then pulling the whole carb bank out is the easiest thing to do.

That way you can inspect the floats, bowls and passageways and clean them up as needed. They would most likely be more gunked as well.

Taking them out would also allow you to rebuild them if decided and none of it is really that hard to do. After first time that is.

It just takes some good planning more than anything else.

[salty1]

Listen to John S. and Valky1500 and remove the carbs as a bank to work on them. More work but more piece of mind. You will be surprised what you might find in those bowls. With the bowl covers removed you will have easy access to the slow speed jets, the main jets, the pilots, the needle jets and the slides. As mentioned earlier Rich at redeye will have all the gaskets needed to do the job.

[valky1500]

Listen to John S. and Valky1500 and remove the carbs as a bank to work on them. More work but more piece of mind. You will be surprised what you might find in those bowls. With the bowl covers removed you will have easy access to the slow speed jets, the main jets, the pilots, the needle jets and the slides. As mentioned earlier Rich at redeye will have all the gaskets needed to do the job.

+1

Taking the look-see approach and then deciding is the way to do it. Cleaning everything up inside is a good idea before replacing with new jets and gaskets. This will prevent a malfunction later on down the road that would require a full rebuild.   

... and a full rebuild is what you want to prevent here.   

[Thunderbolt]

As suggested, take the whole bank off will work out much better, you won't be standing on your head.  Pull the rear upper engine mounts loose so that you can move the bank back enough to get them out.  I have cleaned up half a dozen sets.  I did not change the slows, just cleaned them up as well as take out the pilots and mains and cleaned everything up and replaced them.  Set the pilots at 2 1/4 turns with 35's.  You will probably need some pilot o-rings.  Be careful when you pull the pilots, there is a spring, a washer and an o-ring in there.  Get the motion pro or similar tool to adjust the pilots.

[9Ball]

Can you clean old slow jets....yes, but

My recommendation is to buy new slows and install them rather than taking a chance that one or more wasn't perfectly cleaned or was damaged during cleaning.  I've seen too many have to do this job over a second time, end up buying new jets anyway, and lose riding time waiting for new replacements to arrive.

You can get 6 new slow jets from SudCo for about $35.  I'ver done 4 of these rebuilds on my bike and friend's bikes and it's worth the peace of mind and money well spent (and a cheap lesson learned).

Good luck.

[Patrick]

I'm a fan of leaving everything in place as much as possible and just removing the intakes and bowls.. But,, if this monster won't even start then I too would suggest removing everything and give it a good cleaning.. A lot of fellas prefer to install 38s or new 35s.. Thats fine.. I just clean the originals.. Set the pilots at 2.25 for 35s and I guess 1.5 to 1.75 for 38s.. I use a single vacuum gauge for adjusting the carburetors..

[Daver]

Thanks to all for the input, Looks like I'll pull them out and break them down for a deep clean, replace jets and orings all around. Just looked online, Redeye is closed for a visit to G'mas till the 15th, I'll be ordering parts and waiting for a while I guess.... Will start a new post when I get into them for more help I'm sure...
Thanks again
Daver

[9Ball]

order his carb bowl screws too....the originals tend to "weld" themselves in place and it is hard to remove them without buggering at least a few.  They are JIS, not Phillips head screws but can be removed with a Phillips screwdriver if careful.

[Daver]

Thanks will do...

[John U.]

Check out the link for a JIS screwdriver bit: http://www.rjrcooltools.com/vessel.cfm

If you decide to do the jet replacement with the carbs on the bike, you will need a lift or you will be sitting on the ground.
Once the airbox and intake tubes are removed you can pull one side at a time up close to the frame with a bungy cord. You should also get a 1/4" ratchet driver from Harbor Freight. I would also recommend an inspection mirror.

MotionPro or Redeye sell a D shaped bit/tool for the pilot screw setting, I favor MotionPro's. Don't fail to remove the pilot screws. There will be gunk to clean out. As mentioned, be careful about small pieces which may fall out but also may be glued in there and need to be coaxed out with a small piece of bent wire. Redeye also sells the tiny O-rings that no doubt need to be replaced. I'd go with his O-rings over OEM.
I'd advise care with the bowl screws, even with a JIS bit they can be tough to get out. Some penetrating oil is a good idea. Some antiseize on the new screws is an even better idea.

Let us know when you are ready to reinstall the airbox, we don't want to deal with too many issues at a time.  

[Daver]

Ok, I'll get everythiong in then post again when I get started...
Daver

[Farther]

If the bike just turns over and doesn't catch it could be the battery is weak.  It would be very easy to load check the battery before tearing into everything.

[Ricky-D]

I think that Seafoam, among all the additives, is the least effective when trying to clean out the carburetors.

On the other hand, I feel that Berymans is the strongest and most effective for the job.

That being said, I would suggest strong applications of additive before ripping into the carburetors, which in my estimation, should be the last resort.

***

[Daver]

Battery is good, charged it and it holds 11+ cranking, will try some other additives before tearing the carbs down...

[whitestroke]

If you have the JIS bit and ratchet the bowl should come off easy.  If the bowl is clean you probably don't need to remove carbs. Just replace pilot orings, slow jets, and in my case (leaking)bowl rings.  Don't forget to have D ring driver and don't lose the spring and washer (tiny)..
Remove intake runners on the opposite side your working on also so that bank can drop down, lift the side your working on and strap it up as high as you can with a bungee. iT'S EASY.

[9Ball]

Battery is good, charged it and it holds 11+ cranking, will try some other additives before tearing the carbs down...

At this point you know what the problem most likely is and spending more money trying to find a "chemical solution" is a waste.  Even if it miraculously clears up the plugged jets, you still have issues with old tubing, o-rings and vacuum plugs, and possible stuck or failed float valves.  If you've already decided to remove and R&R the carbs bank then I think you will be very pleased with the outcome.

Yes, this job can be done as others have mentioned hunched over, cursing while leaving the carb bank on the bike....why do it that way?  Once everything is removed you have the oppportunity to clean up the top of the engine, visually inspect everything more thoroughly, and have a much easier time sitting at your work bench removing the bowls and jets for cleaning and replacement.

Good luck...it's an easy job if you take your time and pay attention to how everything comes apart.

[Daver]

Thanks, will let ya'll know when I get into it...