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Author Topic: Petco and aux fuel cell  (Read 1122 times)
cheeseman1969
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Posts: 105


Hastings NE


« on: November 13, 2012, 02:41:36 PM »

Have a Val 1997 standard but mod'ed. Work at a school and having a custom rack rack done over the passager seat (removable) and back end. The kids in the welding class are doing it with LOTS of over site from the teacher. They also are making a fuel cell on for the back rack. The previous owner had a aux fuel cell  and the lines where still on the bike when I bought it.
 We are going to replace the lines but also where talking today about doing something different with the petco and aux fuel. Would love to have the second tank connected to the petco (OEM right now) so I can just switch back and forth on one switch. Example, run out the aux fuel 1st, then the main tank till the petco stopped the flow. Was wondering if there is a petco to buy or some way to do this. Wondering if anybody has tried this or idea's. I am sure the teacher has some as built allot of cars and stuff. But if an easier (?) way from you all, would love to hear it.
 By the way, previous owner put 147,00+ plus on it and I put on 9,000 in a year. So 300 + range would be lovely on a "tank" of gas. 
Thanks
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Gary "Cheeseman"
USN "weather guesser" Retired
Been everywhere...
X Ring
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Posts: 3626


VRCC #27389, VRCCDS #204

The Landmass Between Mobile And New Orleans


« Reply #1 on: November 14, 2012, 11:38:48 AM »

Those of with auxiliary tanks primarily use the R&M belly tank.  What you're describing sounds like the auxiliary tanks the Iron Butt Association riders use.  You might want to try their forum for advice.

Marty
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People are more passionately opposed to wearing fur than leather because it's safer to harass rich women than bikers.           
5_19
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Posts: 842


Dublin, Texas


« Reply #2 on: November 14, 2012, 06:27:23 PM »



My fuel tanks are now switched electrical by using 2 fuel solenoids. That way only one tank at the time can be used. I learned the hard way that if you leave both manual valves open at the same time and fill up both tanks fuel will overflow into the lowest tank.

Both tanks still have a manual valve with reserve. The other advantage of using solenoid valves is that when your ignition switch is off both valves will be closed, therefore virtually eliminating the possibility of the dreaded hydro-lock .
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Most motorcycle problems are caused by the nut that connects the handlebars to the saddle.

IBA # 45723
2001 Honda Valkyrie Standard (Sold after 9 years)
2009 BMW R1200 GSA
cheeseman1969
Member
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Posts: 105


Hastings NE


« Reply #3 on: November 15, 2012, 05:10:40 PM »

Xring. Thanks! I never did think about that.

5_19 This is just about what I am going to do but just move it back farther. Thanks for the info. I do have a electric pump on it. The electric switch is a good idea. Will have to bounce this off someone. Thanks!!
Anyone else with idea's, would love to hear them.
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Gary "Cheeseman"
USN "weather guesser" Retired
Been everywhere...
X Ring
Member
*****
Posts: 3626


VRCC #27389, VRCCDS #204

The Landmass Between Mobile And New Orleans


« Reply #4 on: November 15, 2012, 05:13:47 PM »

You need to use a very low pressure pump.  The ones at the parts store are too powerful and will flood the engine.

Marty
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People are more passionately opposed to wearing fur than leather because it's safer to harass rich women than bikers.           
5_19
Member
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Posts: 842


Dublin, Texas


« Reply #5 on: November 15, 2012, 05:49:20 PM »

No pump needed if the lowest part is higher than the standard tank! To me that's the beauty of a higher auxiliary tank. It also raises the center of gravity compared to a belly tank, but i never found that to be an issue. 
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Most motorcycle problems are caused by the nut that connects the handlebars to the saddle.

IBA # 45723
2001 Honda Valkyrie Standard (Sold after 9 years)
2009 BMW R1200 GSA
PhredValk
Member
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Posts: 1531


Edmonton, Alberta, Canada


« Reply #6 on: November 16, 2012, 10:35:31 PM »

I'm thinking of using a tour tank http://tourtank.com/TourTanks.html over the rear seat on a rack of some kind with a valve that I can open so the fuel gravity flows into the main tank. Open the valve when the main tank is almost empty, and I can still rely on the fuel gauge as long as the tour tank is higher than the bottom of the main tank.

I would only use it on longer rides over mostly strait roads so the higher centre of gravity wouldn't be much of a problem.
Fred.
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VRCCDS0237
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