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Author Topic: Thermostat / Radiator  (Read 1624 times)
Mase
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Posts: 81

# 518


« on: November 15, 2012, 07:28:15 AM »

The Texas heat is a contender that is very tough.  I am checking to see if anyone has had success with using a lower temp rated thermostat.  I am rebuilding a set of carbs to swap out and while I am there I want to get some  other work done.

Is there any advantage to using a lower temp thermostat in the Valkyrie?  If so, which one?
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old2soon
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Posts: 23402

Willow Springs mo


« Reply #1 on: November 15, 2012, 08:12:59 AM »

This past summer here in Missouri it got up to and over 105 degrees F more than once. It was very hot at I-12 in Eureka Springs Ar. The only times my fans came on when i was stopped at a light or riding slow-under 25 M P H in that heat. Out on the road good airflow-no radiator fans. After following this board and from my own experience I M H O-it's a non issue-BUT i might be wrong. I hope my observations help you somewhat. RIDE SAFE.
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Today is the tommorow you worried about yesterday. If at first you don't succeed screw it-save it for nite check.  1964  1968 U S Navy. Two cruises off Nam.
VRCCDS0240  2012 GL1800 Gold Wing Motor Trike conversion
sandy
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Posts: 5400


Mesa, AZ.


« Reply #2 on: November 15, 2012, 02:43:06 PM »

The ICM has a temp sensor to control spark advance. If it won't warm up, you'll have hindered performance.
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R J
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DS-0009 ...... # 173

Des Moines, IA


« Reply #3 on: November 15, 2012, 05:03:36 PM »

If you put a new thermostat in your bike, make sure it is a stock temp one.    Lower temp does not do you a damn bit of good.      Those hot & cold thermos are out of date since like 1970.    Engines are built to take the higher temp and be happy.
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44 Harley ServiCar
 



 

Gryphon Rider
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Posts: 5227


2000 Tourer

Calgary, Alberta


« Reply #4 on: November 16, 2012, 07:23:09 AM »

By the time your engine temp is Texas hot, the thermostat should already be fully open.  If not, you need a new stock thermostat, not a cooler one.
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Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008
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Huffman, Texas close to Houston


« Reply #5 on: November 16, 2012, 10:54:58 AM »

Ok, Mase  to rock the boat alittle, I put in a cooler thermostat last year and have had no problem with it. I have guages and yes it will get just as hot as with the stock  thermostat in the heat of summer. What it will do is take longer to reach the temperature that the fan comes on. You can sit alittle longer in traffic and not reach the temp where the fan is blowing hot air on you. I also hooked up a switch to operate the fan at will so if I see I'm gonna be sitting for awhile I can kick the fan on early to keep temp lower longer. It works for me.  160 degree thermostat.
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valkyriemc
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Posts: 392


2000 blu/slvr Interstate, 2018 Ultra Limited

NE Florida


« Reply #6 on: November 16, 2012, 03:46:17 PM »

I changed mine to an higher flow unit, per jeff k number. Works great but search isnt seachring for me now so I cant post the info. If I can find it I'll post it here. One of the best mods I've done.

Ok here's Jeff's number in his words;



Re: Thermostat choice

« Reply #19 on: October 26, 2010, 04:27:55 PM »

"The verdict is in for me. The Duralast 15868 is the way to go for a replacement thermostat. It has the same size port, and opens much farther than my stock unit, though my stock unit has been used.
It's a 180 degree. It's supposed to have 50% more flow than the stock 143-0687 unit."
 
« Last Edit: November 16, 2012, 04:10:22 PM by valkyriemc » Logged

Veteran USN '70-'76
valkyriemc
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Posts: 392


2000 blu/slvr Interstate, 2018 Ultra Limited

NE Florida


« Reply #7 on: November 16, 2012, 11:49:04 PM »

Nada, no extra mods just dealing with the heat in north Florida during summer primarily. I can track the engine heat with my Motesens temp gauge, and seen an improvement.
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Veteran USN '70-'76
longrider
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Posts: 557


Vernon, B.C. Canada


« Reply #8 on: November 17, 2012, 08:28:42 AM »

One of the things most of us don't realize is the amount of debris that is collected in the fins of the rad over time even though from the front it looks OK.  For some of us in areas where bugs are heavy it even becomes more of an issue.  IF I feel my m/c is running a bit warmer on the hot days I remove the rad, lay it on the floor on a light colored rag and from the BACK of the rad I wash  with the pressure washer setting on low (maybe 400-500 psi).  It is amazing what comes out of there.  JMHO

Warren
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Ricky-D
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Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #9 on: November 17, 2012, 08:56:03 AM »

I'm in agreement with both premises stated here in this thread.

I strongly feel a thermostat with a higher flow while being the same temperature range is a good thing and should be a good choice if having to replace the thermostat for some related problem.

I can identify with bugs in the radiator, having lived in Florida for a lot of years and even here in South Carolina I realize most all bugs occur at a level that's just a foot or two above the pavement.

Right there at the level of the radiator. It's the pits for sure.

However, rather than removing the radiator which is time consuming and can be a pain in the ass getting the hoses loose (and off) I would make a wand with a right angle spray that would easily slip behind the radiator and spray all the collected stuff,

Right onto the front fender.  HAW,, it's easier to clean the fender - for sure!

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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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