Carberator trouble

[mdomino]

I have a 1999 Tourer that has been garage stored for two years.  Now, it starts but barely runs and only under choke.  I am sure the carbs need to be cleaned.  My question is, while I'm in there, are there any changes I should consider making during the process?  It has been suggested to consider stronger springs to make the throttle snappy.  Before I begin the project, are there any parts, gaskets, or tools recommended to collect?  I want to keep the bike stock.  I plan to follow a very good Youtube tutorial for the project.

Also, my Valk is a California model and has the CA emissions package - evidence is the can on the under side in the middle of the frame.  Would there be any advantage in removing this stuff?  Would this enhance performance?  How difficult is it to remove?

[R J]

If you live in California, don't muck with that cannister.   It can cost you some $$$$ if ya do, plus the $$$$ to put it back on..

[salty1]

You will need to pull the carb bank and give everything (jets et al) a through cleaning. Some would encourage you to change out the slow speed jets to 38s, not really necessary. Be sure and order an Oring kit from Rich at redeye tech. You might want to desmog the bike, it's probably best to prevent future issues. A Dan Marc valve might be a good investment as well as a new petcock. Be sure the tank is clean and rust free. When you get it all buttoned up again, synch the carbs. I did all of the above on my 98 valk this last spring after a PO had stored it for 12 years.

[salty1]

RJ's point is well taken! I don't live there.

[Hook#3287]

Some would encourage you to change out the slow speed jets to 38s, not really necessary

I'm not sure why you feel this way, right after they started with the corn in our gas my previously "Gun Proof" lady wouldn't run right, idled rough, felt like she needed a sync all the time.   Researched the problem here and found the jet upgrade as a possible solution.  Being  stubborn, I decided I could just clean the originals. Didn’t solve my problem, so I changed everything I could and adjusted everything possible.  I de-smogged her.  Still wouldn't run right.  Lost a whole season cause I was so bummed.  That winter I ripped out the carbs again, CHANGED the jets to 38’s and she ran as designed and she still purrs like she should.   That was what 07 , 08  over 25k  ago and she shows no harmful effects.

First thing I did on my other two was change the jets, one needed it and it made a huge difference, the other just because.

I can’t talk for any one else, but I’m a true believer that changing the jets solved the only real problem I’ve ever had with my Valks.

[sandy]

There's no HP change to desmogging. The carb springs you mention are from an Interstate and are weaker to allow the slides to come up a bit faster. I dyno'd my bike stock (CA model) and then put in dynajet needles, Thunder Valley headers, I/S carb springs and an I/S ICM. I gained 2 HP and 1 ft/lb of torque. Kind of a waste of money.

[salty1]

Some would encourage you to change out the slow speed jets to 38s, not really necessary

I'm not sure why you feel this way, right after they started with the corn in our gas my previously "Gun Proof" lady wouldn't run right, idled rough, felt like she needed a sync all the time.   Researched the problem here and found the jet upgrade as a possible solution.  Being  stubborn, I decided I could just clean the originals. Didn’t solve my problem, so I changed everything I could and adjusted everything possible.  I de-smogged her.  Still wouldn't run right.  Lost a whole season cause I was so bummed.  That winter I ripped out the carbs again, CHANGED the jets to 38’s and she ran as designed and she still purrs like she should.   That was what 07 , 08  over 25k  ago and she shows no harmful effects.

Hook my experience was just the opposite. After a good cleaning, the 35's worked just fine in both my 97 and 98 Valks. Of course this assumes everything else is setup where it's supposed to be. I don't discount that 38's could help a rough idle. 

[Ricky-D]

The assumption that the bike ran fine before storage should be accepted!

With that thought, the first course of action should be a full regime of fuel additive to the gas system with a complete draining of all the fuel system components and fresh gasoline introduced.

Only after getting the bike to run fairly well should modifications be considered.

No sense to causing additional problems unknowingly.

***

[Patrick]

For right now I'd leave the bike alone.. Change the fuel and add a good heavy dose of your favorite fuel system cleaner [ I like Sea-foam, full can per tank] and run several tanks thru the monster while trying to keep engine speed as low as possible.. Also. take a good look at all the vacuum lines and cap,, replace if necessary [ it probably is].. If it doesn't straighten up let us know..

[salty1]

If the bike is only running full choke, does it run somewhat smooth (most cylinders)? If it's not firing well, I would forego the chemical additive approach and clean up the carbs. Why force the bike to run poorly?

[mdomino]

OK, thanks everyone for the advise.  I put the bike in the shop, seems like I did not do a sufficient job cleaning all the low speed hiding places myself.  I also had the pair and reed valves removed. Now the beast runs fine, tons of power and guts.  The only residual issue is the popping in the exhaust during deceleration.  This is so annoying that I don't enjoy riding her.  According to Tech Board, removing the valves sould eliminate popping.  She has factory jets and Cobra 6 X 6 pipes running wide open - no baffles.  What can I do to eliminate the popping?

[Fritz The Cat]

I was in the same boat. Ran a gallon or so of Seafoam through her and she eventually fixed herself.

[longrider]

mdomino

i take the carbs have been cleaned.  do you know what the pilot jets were set to.  popping can be a few things but in general if you open the pilots an extra 1/4 turn and set the idle back up to 900 or so it should help

warren

[Denny47]

Won't the engine be running lean with stock jets and the 6/6 exhaust? That will cause popping on decel along w/ the carbs being out of sync or a vacuum leak I believe..

[Ricky-D]

You will not be able to rid the bike of the popping if you keep those exhaust pipes on the bike.

You may be able to attenuate the popping some by installing more restrictive baffling in each pipe.

Other than that, forget it!

***

[Chrisj CMA]

You will not be able to rid the bike of the popping if you keep those exhaust pipes on the bike.

You may be able to attenuate the popping some by installing more restrictive baffling in each pipe.

Other than that, forget it!

***

Why do you say that?  I have Cobras and theres no popping. 

My experience with the Cobra pipes is they do not cause popping.  Intake leaks and exhaust leaks cause popping.

Check all the header nuts and the intake screws (18 of them) also the caps on the intake nipples.......

Sometimes when people change pipes they are too lazy (or dont know any better) to put new exhaust gaskets.  That would be my last resort to get rid of the popping.

[Chrisj CMA]

You know what else causes popping...................................forgetting to turn on the gas.  I went out to do some things today, was nice so I took the bike.  After my last stop (Lowes) I forgot to turn the gas on.  Upon leaving...a mile down the road it started missing so I let off the gas and reached for the Pingel and then POP POP POP.........LOL  I thought of this thread immediately 

[mdomino]

My son has the same bike, same Cobra 6 X 6 pipes, and no popping.  I just know that if I checked his jets, they would be different than my stock jets.  I just ordered up new 38s and 105s.  I will let everyone know how it comes out when I'm done.  Cheers

[Chrisj CMA]

My son has the same bike, same Cobra 6 X 6 pipes, and no popping.  I just know that if I checked his jets, they would be different than my stock jets.  I just ordered up new 38s and 105s.  I will let everyone know how it comes out when I'm done.  Cheers

Dont forget to check all those things that can cause air leaks

[whitestroke]

I went down the same path as you regarding popping.  I opted to go with the stock pipes because I didn't like the noise.  Now no more popping.  But I think changing the jets to 35 and 105 would have also  alleviated the popping with the 6 into 6.