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Author Topic: left exhaust hot / right exhaust cold  (Read 1741 times)
verngroves
Member
*****
Posts: 29


Central New York


« on: November 24, 2012, 05:39:41 PM »

I have a 2000 Standard and it's the fast black. I have almost 42,000 on it. I've owned it for about a year and a half and have loved it. It's been running great. It's that time of year to slow down the riding here in Upstate NY and so I started it up and put in some stable in my gas tank. When i started it yesterday, it ran as though it were running on half the cylinders. I started with full choke and the idle didn't kick up as much as it usually does when it's running on full choke. I knew something wasn't right. So I shut down the choke and the idle dropped way down below normal idle and stalled. I started it again, without the choke and flipped the throttle up a little and then slowly turned on the choke. I left it running for a few minutes. I then checked the exhaust pipes. Out of the right exhaust there was nothing but cold. Out of the left exhaust was hot.

So, my question is, is it fuel or is it electrical? If anyone has any insight, please give me some guidance on this.

I've been following this board since before I bought the bike. You're a smart bunch of guys (and gals) and so this is the place to be. I'll thank you in advance for any advice you might be able to give me. Thanks!

Vern
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Dorkman
Member
*****
Posts: 186


San Carlos, CA


« Reply #1 on: November 24, 2012, 05:57:57 PM »

The first suspect is what occurred just before the problem surfaced.  That would be the Stabul in the gas tank.  I would drain everything, right down to the carb bowls, then fuel with new gas.

Plugs on the dead side are probably soaked so it will not fire.  Pull the plugs and crank to clear the cylinders, dry the plugs.  If you get a splash of gas out of a cylinder, then a carb float is probably stuck open.  Stabul may have released some crud into the carbs.  Good starting point anyway.

Doubt that spark is an issue, but you can always test by pulling a plug, grounding and seeing if you get a spark while cranking.
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PhredValk
Member
*****
Posts: 1531


Edmonton, Alberta, Canada


« Reply #2 on: November 24, 2012, 09:18:39 PM »

Put a big piece of cardboard under it, and drain the carb bowls. If the right ones are dry, the stabil may have knocked something loose and the right fuel line could be blocked. Not likely, but the only thing you've changed is the fuel.
fred.
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Growing old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
VRCCDS0237
Stude
Member
*****
Posts: 533


« Reply #3 on: November 24, 2012, 11:24:00 PM »

 A friend of mine in Texas had the same problem when he pulled his carbs apart he found what looked to be calcium deposits cloging the right bank main jets, high percentage ethanol in fuel might be the cause... The first check to make is put the bike in neutral turn it on grab #1 #3 or #5 plug wire and bump the starter. If you get knocked on your ass you know your coils are good. If the coils are good
check the spark plugs, if they are dry. Chances are good that the carbs should be pulled and cleaned.
If you do pull the carbs buy a service manual and follow it .


read below what I added from what I found on the internernet
http://www.energy-consumers-edge.com/problems-with-ethanol-fuel.html

PROBLEMS WITH ETHANOL FUEL
Boats, motorcycles, lawn mowers, and a host of other products are experiencing mechanical damage, gasoline leaks, and fires.

The cause? Ethanol, and it’s probably in your gasoline now.

These and other problems with ethanol fuel are increasing as its use in American gasoline supplies increases. We’ll discuss how it effects different gas powered products below, but first, let’s take a closer look at ethanol.


 

_________________________________________________________________



ETHANOL

Ethanol in the U.S. is distilled primarily from fermented corn. It’s the same process used to make hard liquor. It can be burned in properly equipped engines and it’s use as a gasoline supplement in the U.S. is growing dramatically.

Ethanol is now being used as a replacement for the anti-knock compound MTBE . Small amounts of ethanol will soon be found in most gasoline sold in the U.S.

Some engines can run the new gasoline blends just fine. But others are having big problems.

_________________________________________________________________


One of the main problems with ethanol fuel mixes is that the ethanol component of the mix can attack rubber seals in fuel systems and other engine components.

Ethanol mechanical problems can also lead to dangerous, highly flammable fuel leaks, which is one reason why you’re not supposed to put E85 ethanol in the fuel tank of your car unless it is properly equipped.

We may soon find blends with 10% ethanol in most of the gasoline we buy.

Minnesota’s E-10 ethanol mandate requires 10% ethanol in all of its automotive fuel supplies. Montana and Hawaii have also passed E-10 ethanol fuel use legislation and a number of other states are in the process of introducing similar mandates.

Gasohol, or E10 ethanol, is a mixture of 90% gasoline and 10% ethanol. It is often sold as a higher-octane fuel. In addition to boosting octane levels, this mixture also helps reduce oil imports.

But consumers want to know if ethanol is safe at 10% concentrations or less.

[Note: You need the Free Adobe Reader to access some of the documents shown below.]

_________________________________________________________________



ETHANOL AND YOUR CAR

The Minnesota Renewable Energy FAQ page states that, “E-10 is warranted by every automaker that sells vehicles in the U.S.” But they don’t say what model years and makes are involved. They also plan to increase the mandate to 20% ethanol in the next few years.

U.S. Department of Energy Ethanol Information also states that, “Auto manufacturers also approve the use of low-level blends because they work well in gasoline engines and create no noticeable difference in vehicle performance.”

But, what are you supposed to do if you don’t own a later model car, or if you’re simply worried about problems with ethanol fuel even in E10 or lower ratio blends?

Consult your owner’s manual to see if your car can safely burn gasohol or any ethanol containing fuel mix. If you’re not sure, ask a dealer who carries the make and model of car you drive. If you have a reliable mechanic, you can also ask if any fuel system or other alterations are needed to prevent ethanol mechanical problems.


_________________________________________________________________

ETHANOL AND YOUR BOAT – WARNING!

Boat owners are having a boatload of ethanol mechanical problems. The problems include plugged fuel filters, fuel leaks (and fires resulting from the leaks), fiberglass gas tank failures, and ruined engines.

The U.S. Coast Guard has issued a boater’s alert detailing problems with ethanol fuel in Boating Safety Circular 85 . Refer to ‘Pain in the Gas’ starting on page 6.

A 1987 “Amendment to Fuel System Standard” found on the last page, left column of USCG Boating Safety Circular 73 is also relevant to the use of ethanol products in marine fuel systems.

And the Know Before You Go page from the State of Hawaii Division of Boating and Ocean Recreation details a simple, reliable test procedure to determine if your gasoline contains ethanol.

Does your marina carry ethanol free gasoline? Some do, some don’t. You need to ask. Savvy marina owners know the difference between ethanol and MTBE. Both are used as octane boosters.

For boaters, the most important difference is that all gasoline-powered boats can handle MTBE, but only a few can handle ethanol without problems. Outboard Wizard details the kinds of ethanol related mechanical problems people are having with outboard motors. It also has solutions for outboard owners and a number of useful links for all boaters.

You can prevent major boating problems with ethanol fuel mixes by taking action. Check your boat owner’s manual and talk to your dealer, reliable boat mechanics, and your marina operators to find out just where you stand.

Action now can save thousands later, and it could save your life.

_________________________________________________________________

ETHANOL AND YOUR AIRPLANE – FORBIDDEN!

Though research is underway to advance the use of ethanol in aircraft, its use is forbidden as set forth in this U.S. Federal Aviation Agency 2006 Airworthiness Bulletin . The FAA expressly forbids the use of any ethanol containing fuel.

The only American aircraft allowed to use any ethanol bearing fuel are experimental aircraft licensed for such use. Otherwise ETHANOL USE IN U.S. AIRCRAFT IS FORBIDDEN!

_________________________________________________________________

ETHANOL AND YOUR TOOLS AND TOYS - ALERT!

We’ve touched on the effects of ethanol on the three major travel mediums, land, water, and air. But we use an array of gasoline burning products including motorcycles, ATVs, farm tractors, lawn mowers, and much more.

Ethanol is in the process of mixing into virtually all U.S. gasoline supplies. As discussed in the ‘Ethanol and Your Boat’ section, there are serious problems with ethanol fuel mixes in engines that haven’t been designed to accommodate it.

Can we expect to have problems with all of our gasoline consuming products similar to those boaters are experiencing?

A quick way to find out is with a search engine.



 Enter your search terms  Submit search form          


Enter a term such as ‘Ethanol motorcycle repairs’ or ‘Ethanol lawn mower repairs’. When you use ‘Ethanol ________repairs’ for your keyword search you’ll get resources that dial right in to the product of concern.

But.

The only sure way to avoid ethanol mechanical problems in your gasoline-powered products is to check your owner’s manual and check with the dealer. Ask about the effect of ethanol on engines, fuel tanks, fuel lines, fuel system seals, fuel filters, and other engine components. Different products will be affected in different ways.

Taking action now can save a lot of money and grief later.

_________________________________________________________________


More ethanol information at Advantages and Disadvantages of Biomass

Return to Money Saving Driving

Leave Problems With Ethanol Fuel and Return Home _________________________________________________________________

« Last Edit: November 24, 2012, 11:28:03 PM by Stude » Logged
valky1500
Member
*****
Posts: 206


MI


« Reply #4 on: November 24, 2012, 11:57:18 PM »

Over the years I have taken notice to the left side pipes warming up faster than the right side on the Valkyries. Just today I started the standard up after a few days of cold sitting. As it sat there idling there was water vapor in the fumes on the left side but none at the right. Then as the engine was warming up it went away on the left and then appeared on the right side.

I looked down at the floor and saw where the water vapor was squirting out of the weep holes of both exhaust pipes. By this time they had wet spots formed on the floor as the engine warmed up and there seemed to be a lot in there. It seems to me that Cobras don't have these features to see this happening.

In times past I have attributed this peculiar action to the condensation collecting at one side more than the other because the bike was leaning on the kick stand. This was a plausible explanation most of the time but then it didn't answer every situation.

There is another school of thought that says one side of the boxer warms up faster than the other because the coolant circulation is from within the engine. Such as where the coolant and oil goes around the cylinders first and then circulates the heads after. Now who can know all that is beyond me but it could be in any combination of these things and more I'm sure.

Somewhere after that point I wondered, as many times before, just where all that water came from. It didn't take much imagination to remind myself that condensation comes from the air and forms when hot meets cold. Such as when the engine is cooling off after use and it then collects inside and over time it then comes out at the pipes.   2funny

Anyways, about the chokes- they are not true chokes at all but enriching valves and for starting purposes only. You may need them at times and at other times not. How you use them is of personal choice as not all engines are tuned the same or have the same setups. Nor should you try to find fault from them because they don't appear to be working right. The true fault will appear somewhere else. That's saying a lot a lot I know. Yes they can mess you up by over using them.     coolsmiley

As a matter of fact, when it doesn't appear to be running right, you will never be wrong to change the spark plugs with a new set first. Then going on to find the culprit.       Grin

Join the club. While riding your Valkyrie you will hear it said and over many times- It's all a learning curve.       cooldude
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'98 Standard
'01 IS
Yes I pull a trailer

I have taken notice to those who use that word (Precautionary) and abide by it are not only very happy in life...
but they also live long and prosper.  Wink
verngroves
Member
*****
Posts: 29


Central New York


« Reply #5 on: November 25, 2012, 04:23:56 AM »

I'll work on some of you guys' suggestioins. It will be a few days as my Valk is in my shed and my shed is not heated. We just got about 3 inches of fresh snow - plus my work is calling me to take care of it.

Thanks for all your responses - very much appreciated. I'll get back to let you know as soon as I can.

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Patrick
Member
*****
Posts: 15433


VRCC 4474

Largo Florida


« Reply #6 on: November 25, 2012, 04:46:34 AM »

Not too much info Vern.. But,, from what you have said,, it sounds like the Sta-bil.. Did you dump the Sta-bil in the tank without mixing it well ??  I'd suggest dumping the fuel and draining the carburetors.. Them add new fuel with a full of Sea-foam well mixed and start the monster up and see what happens.. You may have to go for a long cold ride though.. I doubt very much the problem is ignition..
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Ricky-D
Member
*****
Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #7 on: November 25, 2012, 07:13:59 AM »

Well Vern, since you've been following this board for as long as you say you have, and with identical problems of the type you are reporting, being posted (on this board) so many, many times it would seem to me that you have not taken the experience of others to heart.

There is a defined procedure that has been stated and posted over and over again regarding what to do when storing the Valkyrie for the winter.

Besides that, it's been hashed and rehashed about the perils of going out to "the barn" to start and run the motor for a bit of time.  Even in the automobile world this particular practice is condemned since it is so detrimental to the well being of the motor and related systems.

Now you're in a fix.

Best advice is to leave it alone till riding season once again reappears.

I'd also suggest to drain the carburetors. Do this right away.

And leave the Valkyrie alone, it will be Ok in the spring.

***
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
valky1500
Member
*****
Posts: 206


MI


« Reply #8 on: November 25, 2012, 09:10:55 AM »

Well Vern, since you've been following this board for as long as you say you have, and with identical problems of the type you are reporting, being posted (on this board) so many, many times it would seem to me that you have not taken the experience of others to heart.

There is a defined procedure that has been stated and posted over and over again regarding what to do when storing the Valkyrie for the winter.

Besides that, it's been hashed and rehashed about the perils of going out to "the barn" to start and run the motor for a bit of time.  Even in the automobile world this particular practice is condemned since it is so detrimental to the well being of the motor and related systems.

Now you're in a fix.

Best advice is to leave it alone till riding season once again reappears.

I'd also suggest to drain the carburetors. Do this right away.

And leave the Valkyrie alone, it will be Ok in the spring.

***

+1

Then take is out first chance ya get with a full tank of fresh gas and warmed up and blow out all the left over crap from the winter months.  2funny
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'98 Standard
'01 IS
Yes I pull a trailer

I have taken notice to those who use that word (Precautionary) and abide by it are not only very happy in life...
but they also live long and prosper.  Wink
Red Dog
Member
*****
Posts: 30


Manvel TX


« Reply #9 on: November 26, 2012, 04:59:30 PM »

Vern,
Here are a couple of things you might consider the next time you mess with it.
1. Get yourself an extra spark plug and a pair of dry white mule leather gloves.
2. The side that is running cold, remove and reconnect the three plug boots a few times to limber them up and to get used to the feel of coming off and going on with the motor Not running.
3. With all plug boots attached start motor. Try to bring the motor up to a steady 1000 - 1200 rpm.
4. Put on the dry mule glove, remove and replace one plug boot at a time to see if there is any change in the motor. If there is not any change at all, then most likely combustion is not occuring in those cylynders.
6. Shutdown motor and remove one plug boot, attach to extra spark plug, ground to top of plug that boot was removed from, start motor in low light condition to see if you get spark. Repeat on other two plugs.
7. If you did not get spark, then igniton is the problem.
8. If you are getting fuel and no spark you should smell raw gas in the cold side exhaust pipe.

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