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ragincajun
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« on: November 27, 2012, 03:17:48 PM » |
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So ive taken the bike out on two short spins around the neighborhood, I noticed I had to crank it several times on the starter the second time whereas the first time it started right up. I went out a few minutes ago to go take another quick ride and more light was on which I didn't notice if that was the case previously, all the electronics work the neutral light was on the headlight work, turn signals work.
I get a slight turn over on the starter the first time I push the ignition but after that it just clicks like it's not engaging. I'm guessing the battery, I was hoping with a couple of runs around the block you know five or 6 miles that it would put a little charge on it but I'm not sure exactly how to go about testing the battery usually I just put it on a charger but that's with a car but never actually had to do it with a bike.
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Michvalk
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« Reply #1 on: November 27, 2012, 03:25:55 PM » |
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Check all the battery connections, both ends, for corrosion and tightness. The neg. cable at the motor end has been known to corrode and cause a bad connection. If you charge the battery with a charger, you will have more success. The alternator will not charge the battery in such a short run, and will pull on the alt. very hard, and could cause failure. How old is the battery? May be time for a new one  |
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salty1
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Posts: 2359
"Flyka"
Spokane, WA or Tucson, AZ
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« Reply #2 on: November 27, 2012, 03:30:53 PM » |
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Make sure your ground to the frame is good too. Sounds like a "tired" battery.
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My rides: 1998 GL1500C, 2000 GL 1500CF,2006 GL 1800 3A   |
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Bone
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« Reply #3 on: November 27, 2012, 03:46:20 PM » |
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It takes 12 plus volts to fire the ignition. They will crank fast but not fire. It sounds like yours is needing a charge to see what it can do. You can jump the bike off of a NON-running car it should fire.
Make sure it's not running.
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ragincajun
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« Reply #4 on: November 27, 2012, 04:01:35 PM » |
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So just hook the cables from the car to the bike, not running, and crank the bike?
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sandy
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« Reply #5 on: November 27, 2012, 04:08:19 PM » |
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So just hook the cables from the car to the bike, not running, and crank the bike?
That's correct. The alternator in a car is too strong for the bike's electrical system. You might fry the ICM. |
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Patrick
Member
Posts: 15433
VRCC 4474
Largo Florida
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« Reply #6 on: November 27, 2012, 04:13:47 PM » |
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It sounds like you have a dirty starter switch,, common problem.. There should be directions for the fix in Shop Talk..
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ragincajun
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« Reply #7 on: November 27, 2012, 04:57:22 PM » |
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Got home and was able to check the starter switch first off. The headlight did go off when I engaged the starter button so that appears to leave out the starter button.
Tomorrow when I get home and have some daylight to work with I'll check the battery connections and then put it on the car and try to start it that way and see what happens with that.
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John Schmidt
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Posts: 15245
a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike
De Pere, WI (Green Bay)
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« Reply #8 on: November 27, 2012, 05:43:21 PM » |
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" The headlight did go off when I engaged the starter button so that appears to leave out the starter button."
Not necessarily. That is a sliding set of contacts internally, and just because the headlight goes out doesn't mean the contacts are good for the starter. However I'd check the battery condition first like others have suggested. If you don't have a voltmeter, most auto parts places will test it for you for free. |
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BF
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« Reply #9 on: November 27, 2012, 09:47:56 PM » |
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Check the battery's voltage. If it's less than 10 volts, it might be history and time to replace it.
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I can't help about the shape I'm in I can't sing, I ain't pretty and my legs are thin But don't ask me what I think of you I might not give the answer that you want me to  |
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Imohtep
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« Reply #10 on: November 28, 2012, 01:53:22 AM » |
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Make sure your ground to the frame is good too. Sounds like a "tired" battery.
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Imohtep
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« Reply #11 on: November 28, 2012, 01:54:36 AM » |
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So just hook the cables from the car to the bike, not running, and crank the bike?
That's correct. The alternator in a car is too strong for the bike's electrical system. You might fry the ICM. True, but you can tried to start bike without starting the car... Done that, been there. |
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« Last Edit: November 28, 2012, 01:56:35 AM by Imohtep »
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ragincajun
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« Reply #12 on: November 28, 2012, 05:39:43 AM » |
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Guess it's good news. Opened up the battery case this morning look like the positive terminal looked a cut loose. Tighten that up still couldn't get it to turn over. Hooked up the jumper cables and it fired right up.
Guess I'll let it run for a good 20 minutes to see if that puts a little bit of a charge on it and then when I get home this afternoon I can actually get out ride it for a while and maybe do about 30 minutes or so and see if that puts a good charge on it.
I'll probably look to buy a voltmeter this afternoon while I'm out. Would you recommend me putting the battery on a battery charger just to make sure it's fully charged anyway?
If I remember from reading correctly it's the lower voltage setting for a longer period of time so you don't mess the battery out.
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Gryphon Rider
Member
Posts: 5227
2000 Tourer
Calgary, Alberta
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« Reply #13 on: November 28, 2012, 06:05:43 AM » |
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Idling the engine as a method of charging the battery IS NOT THE WAY TO DO IT. Is your charger capable of putting out a low current (≤2A) charge? If so, put that on your battery overnight. The Yuasa battery label says 1.4A for 5-10 hours. If not, go buy a charger that is designed for power sports batteries and charge your battery. You talk about using the lower voltage setting on your charger; I hope you mean low current.
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ragincajun
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« Reply #14 on: November 28, 2012, 06:25:55 AM » |
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That is what I meant but I do not have a charger that goes that low. So I will look for a battery tender like you're talking about while I'm out today. Sorry about just doing it on the idle, actually I did put the throttle lock on it at about 25-2600 rpm but that was the best I could do before leaving for work this morning.
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HayHauler
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« Reply #15 on: November 28, 2012, 12:35:47 PM » |
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Good to hear RC. Glad it is nothing serious. If the charge doesn't hold, it's time for a battery. Yaesua (sp?) Is the Banff of choice which is the stock band. Hay  Jimmyt |
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ragincajun
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« Reply #16 on: November 28, 2012, 01:26:45 PM » |
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Just got in a few minutes ago. Went to the bike before I even came inside.
Put the key in, pushed the starter, and she fired right up. Ran to get gas, went to show her off to a friend and then back home. About 30 minutes all told. She refired again after shutting down for gas and then again for the showoff. So fingers crossed maybe that positive cable that was just a bit loose was the main culprit. I'll check her again tomorrow. If it acts up again, I did buy the battery tender today so I'll hook that up to give her a good run this weekend.
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VRCC Member #34758 |
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #17 on: November 28, 2012, 01:41:12 PM » |
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You really should get a volt/ohm meter. They're very inexpensive. 20 bucks or less.
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008
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« Reply #18 on: November 28, 2012, 01:48:58 PM » |
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John sorry to hear of you problem. It takes about 20 minutes of riding to charge the battery back up to the voltage it was before you started it. So short trips and numberal starts can get you in trouble. I found this out the hard way on a error running trip for misses and thought I was gonna have to psh start the old gal to get her home. Hope to meet you soon and see your bike.
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ragincajun
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« Reply #19 on: November 28, 2012, 03:02:36 PM » |
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You really should get a volt/ohm meter. They're very inexpensive. 20 bucks or less.
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I picked on up today, along with the charger. |
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HayHauler
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« Reply #20 on: November 29, 2012, 08:47:42 AM » |
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Yea, charge that battery up and go for a good ride. Ride her to dinner tonight so others can see your new phat girl. Hay Jimmyt |
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