Just bought an '02 Valk and drove it 1150miles home this weekend. Idles rough.

[Pappy!]

Welcome me to the Valkyrie club!!! Finally bought one!
As the sign said. I left Austin Texas Saturday morning and drove to Eustis Florida. Arrived Today around 5PM or so. 1150 miles. Engine idled rough when I picked up the bike but I thought running some fuel through it may help out. Incidentally, at 75mph average I went on the reserve almost exacty at 150 miles and took between 3.9 - 4.1 gallons at each fillup depending on how long I had to continue before seeing an exit.
Now.....the engine takes FOREVER to return to idle after running freeway speeds for any length of time. It slooowwwwly returns to around 1100-1200RPM. Talking a minute or more sometimes.
Under lighe decelerations from freeway speeds the engine will backfire.
At idle it is rough but seems to pick up when off the idle circuit.
Vacuum leaks or carb issues??
Havent used any Techron or Chemtool at all yet....figured all the alcohol would do the trick on the way home. The bike, not me!
Bike has a little over 16,000 on it now and nothing has ever been done to the carbs that I am aware of. Previous owner pretty much had the bike since new.
Has a 6 degree trigger wheel. K & N filter. Mark T trombones.

[Michvalk]

Welcome! Bike with so few miles will need to be gone through. Rear service, then go through all the vacume lines, check the carb clamps and the intake bolts. I would start out by adding the carb cleaner of choice (the whole can) and fill up, run it home, then do the service. The rear splines are the most important. After it sets with the carb cleaner  in it, run the tank out, and repeat. I'm guessing it did that before you pulled out, so would lead me to believe that the carbs are gunked up. could be you may have to pull the carbs, but many have had good luck with the carb cleaner in the gas(I did). lots of people in your area to help if needed, just ask! Good luck, and enjoy

[LinnB]

The gas mileage sounds real close to normal, 38-40 mpg, at 75 mph.  To start simple you could add a can of Seafoam in a tank, yep the whole can, and then ride another 80 miles top of the tank and ride some more.  When I bought my '99 I ran 3 cans through 3-4 tanks full of fuel over the 600 mile trip home and no problems at all since.  I do run a can through once a month just to keep things clean.  

I'm sure others will chime in about other possibilities but I like to start simple first and then diagnose from that point.

Also what Michvalk said about preventative maintenance and other things to check.

[Ricky-D]

Sounds like the over-running and back-firing is possibly from vacuum leaks. On a stock bike there are quite few vacuum hoses that would be the most probable suspects.

Look behind all the intake risers to find them. They are connected to barbs that are on the backside of the intake risers.

Too bad you didn't think to add a can of gasoline additive to the tanks of gas you used on the ride home. No time like the present to start doing so!

***

[FryeVRCCDS0067]

Lots of good advice above. Welcome to Valk ownership, you'll like it. 

[rocker333]

Eleven yrs old... replace the vac lines... and I wouldn't run an aftermarket trigger wheel, possible problems you haven't dreamed of... just my $0.02...

Enjoy your Valk!!!
rock

[Pappy!]

Have pretty much looked at every single vacuum line there is that I can see. They all look perfect. No weather cracks or anything. All of the small 2.5" lines are good. All the rest are as well. I tightened the intake hose clamps after removing the covers. They are good to go and needed a little tighening. No difference yet.
To my knowledge the trigger wheel has been on there for many thousands of miles so far without a hitch.

[rayvin57]

I picked up my '03 standard about a month ago and the slight popping I had on decel didn't go away until I replaced the exhaust gaskets. Tightening the exhaust nuts helped a little at first, though.

[FryeVRCCDS0067]

Have pretty much looked at every single vacuum line there is that I can see. They all look perfect. No weather cracks or anything. All of the small 2.5" lines are good. All the rest are as well. I tightened the intake hose clamps after removing the covers. They are good to go and needed a little tighening. No difference yet.
To my knowledge the trigger wheel has been on there for many thousands of miles so far without a hitch.

You probably already checked them but I'll mention it just in case. The small rubber boots on the back of the intakes. I've had to replace mine several times over the years. They may not look bad but if you put your finger on them and push a little you'll see if they are cracked.

[Oklahoma_Valk]

Many will say that valks are low maintenance bikes. I don't agree. Valks are dependable bikes if you do the maintenance, however.

Being Winter time, you should plan on doing the following before you begin next year's riding season:

(instructions on how to perform all of this maintenance can be found in the shoptalk forum tab above)

1) Service the rear splines. (Inside of the big grey hub)

2) Change the engine oil/bleed the brake fluids

3) Remove the tank, and check the integrity of the air filter.

4) If engine issues are not resolved with fuel treatment, perform a full desmog.

5) If engine issues are not resolved after performing a full desmog, a carb cleaning may be necessary.
Instructions: http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,49690.0.html

Welcome to the world of the Honda Valkyrie, there is nothing so incredible as a properly running valk!!

you are in the right place.

-okie

[rayvin57]

Being Winter time, you should plan on doing the following before you begin next year's riding season:

(instructions on how to perform all of this maintenance can be found in the shoptalk forum tab above)

1) Service the rear splines. (Inside of the big grey hub)

2) Change the engine oil/bleed the brake fluids

3) Remove the tank, and check the integrity of the air filter.

4) If engine issues are not resolved with fuel treatment, perform a full desmog.

5) If engine issues are not resolved after performing a full desmog, a carb cleaning may be necessary.
Instructions: http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,49690.0.html

Welcome to the world of the Honda Valkyrie, there is nothing so incredible as a properly running valk!!

you are in the right place.

-okie

All sounds like it was right on the nose, OkValk, except for the part about winter time...pappy's down here with me in sunny Florida.

[whitestroke]

If your going to do #4 you might as well do #5 also. You won't be happy if you have to take the tank/filter off again.  I would also flush the tank a few times while it's off.

Also replace riser o-rings. With risers off it's easy to remove and clean carb jets with the proper tools (jis bit and ratchet, pilot jet tool ) without removing the carbs. This was all mine needed for rough idle.

[Pappy!]

Whitestroke - that may be what I end up doing (#5). Saw where you could remove the airbox and the intake risers and just raise and tie the carb bank up,  drop the bowls and do your cleaning. Am waiting for the tool to come in first. Before I do that am thinking that if I can back off the needles and get some fuel to flow that I can then do the Chemtool run and possibly clean them up. Worth a try anyway. Would like it to idle better through the Holidays (girlfriend coming down) and after Hunting season I will have more time to do whatever needs to be done.

[Oklahoma_Valk]

Unless you are a well-versed mechanic, I do not recommend trying to make "adjustments" to the carbs on your own. More often than not, we end up messing things up. Things that Mother-honda set up perfectly. The 1-5 list will solve nearly all of your engine problems. Just take your time! Taking your time and getting to know the bike are the greatest things you can do! I did forget to mention the intake runner o-rings. The risers you speak of are more often referred to as "runners."

again, Welcome!!

-ok

[whitestroke]

Pappy
With the carb bank tied up, you can remove the 2 jets with the rachet and screwdriver bit.  Careful when you remove the needle (tiny spring, washer & oring).  I sprayed carb cleaned up vacated holes (jets & needle). 
I'd run a small wire through the jets, make sure there clean and not damaged.

[Pappy!]

Good thing is that I have been a mechanic all my life. Trained as an Airframe and Powerplant mechanic at Embry Riddle but worked in the marine industry as a tech rep or applications engineer for two of the largest marine engine manufacturers out there. Definitely not afraid to play with carburetors! Hell, I had 8 of them on my V8 Johnsons..... but they were alot easier to get to!
Always nice to pick up tricks and knowledge from those who have already been there and done that on a product I am not yet familiar with. It is very much appreciated!
Looked at a de-smog kit and a couple write ups for that as well. Looks like that would clean up the engine as well. Also looked at the resolutions for the tank valve diaphragm issues and if it comes to it I may be replacing or servicing that as well while there. Heard about a quick disconnect for the fuel line also?
Now....in talking with the PO the bike had an extensive service at 12,000 miles. All fluids and coolant were changed. Oil was changed and the K&N filter was either added at that point or serviced so luckily some of the above "to do" list has been done. He is going to try and get me copies of the service records.

[whitestroke]

Stay away from the quick disconnect, fuel flow and leakage problems. I put a inline filter in.  Some have had fuel flow problems with them also.

[mmurffy03]

good call on the quick disconnect its made ok but is a $25.00 paperweight now

[olddog1946]

Stay away from the quick disconnect, fuel flow and leakage problems. I put a inline filter in.  Some have had fuel flow problems with them also.

The quick disconnect (from Red-eye) works fine, but the O-rings don't hold up and whenever I get replacement ones I forget where I put em. I just put in a brass fitting along with red-eye's no kink fuel line and a wally world fuel filter and have had no problems at all.

[rayvin57]

Hey Pappy, is that your Vulcan 1600 I saw up on CL this morning?  Nice looking ride.

[Led]

Yes.......go through all of the clamps.  

HOPEFULLY........they did not allow fuel to ROT......in the Carbs......

NO MATTER what you do, they may NEVER be the same, ever again!!      

There are debates here discussing whether to drain the Carbs every year for storage.  I am a HUGE proponant of that!!!!  I have done that from day ONE!!!

I can idle my '99 down to almost 500 RPM'S!!!  NOT good for practical use, but I can do it! She will just barely tick over! Obviously my practice of draining the Carbs every year WORKS!!!!!!

Good luck on getting Her to run..........

[Pappy!]

Hey Pappy, is that your Vulcan 1600 I saw up on CL this morning?  Nice looking ride.

Darn, Rayvin ..... you're good! Yes, that is my Vulcan! How did you figure that one out? My reason for selling? and matched up the pics of the driveway?
Probably should put it on the Vulcan forums as well. It is a super comfortable ride, plenty of power,  and I actually like the riding position better than the Valk. But it's not a Valk.............

[Pappy!]

Well, the adjustment tool came in this morning and tonight I took both #1 and #3 needles out to where the needles are about flush with the carb casting.
#3 starting to fire and come back! Started running pretty steady. Will run it and let the fuel clean it up and re-adjust as necessary.
#1 cylinder still hasn't come out to play yet.

[rayvin57]

Hey Pappy, is that your Vulcan 1600 I saw up on CL this morning?  Nice looking ride.

Darn, Rayvin ..... you're good! Yes, that is my Vulcan! How did you figure that one out? My reason for selling? and matched up the pics of the driveway?
Probably should put it on the Vulcan forums as well. It is a super comfortable ride, plenty of power,  and I actually like the riding position better than the Valk. But it's not a Valk.............

I just stumbled on your ad during a recent valkyrie search on SearchTempest, which scours all CL listings for as broad a radius as you select.  When I saw Eustis in your ad...
I traded my 06 Vic Kingpin for my Valk, and it took me a bit to get used to the differences, ergo and otherwise.  If I hear of anyone looking, I'll send them your way.

[Pappy!]

Well, good news. I backed off the needle even more on #1 and I now have all 6 firing. Will let the fuel cleaner do its work and re-adjust as it cleans up the circuit.

[rayvin57]

Well, good news. I backed off the needle even more on #1 and I now have all 6 firing. Will let the fuel cleaner do its work and re-adjust as it cleans up the circuit.

Good deal- glad you've got all 6 going...

[Grumpy]

Well, good news. I backed off the needle even more on #1 and I now have all 6 firing. Will let the fuel cleaner do its work and re-adjust as it cleans up the circuit.

Get a can of Berrymans B12 and add it to the tank, it will dissolve the varnish. Be careful with it, it will remove paint. About 1/2 a can in a full tank, run it out and top off with fresh gas.

[Pappy!]

Have the Berryman. Seems to be differing opinions on the quantity though. Correct me if I am wrong (am sure that will be easy!) but I seem to remember reading a full can in a tank and also a half can in a tank. Which is it?
#1 cyl was short lived....back to 5 cylinders again and havent been home to ride it. Am back home now and planning a 150 mile ride or so to burn a tank this weekend.

[BF]

Have the Berryman. Seems to be differing opinions on the quantity though. Correct me if I am wrong (am sure that will be easy!) but I seem to remember reading a full can in a tank and also a half can in a tank. Which is it?
#1 cyl was short lived....back to 5 cylinders again and havent been home to ride it. Am back home now and planning a 150 mile ride or so to burn a tank this weekend.

If your having problems, I'd dump the whole can in there and take a very long ride.  Keep it under 2000 rpms for most of that entire tank to clean the slow jets. 

btw.....To each their own, but I've had better luck using Techron as a fuel system cleaner. 

[John U.]

+1 on Techron, plus it's easier on rubber parts. Give it a strong dose, a half can in a half tank or less.
I favor running the bike at high rpms and backing off to increase vacume. Ride it and let it sit for a while then ride it again.
In a couple of days it will work if it's going to, but it may not. That's why I suggested to use less gas, if it doesn't work it's time to get your hands dirty. Good luck

[Pappy!]

Couldn't stand it any longer!
Pulled the carbs yesterday afternoon and disassembled them. All brass parts in to soak overnight. Checked all passages with pressurized carb cleaner and blew them out as well. Re-assembled today.
Did the carb sync by eyeball as one bank was a little off and one carb on the other bank was open a little farther than it should have been.

Silk.......................pure silk !!

[Oklahoma_Valk]

Couldn't stand it any longer!
Pulled the carbs yesterday afternoon and disassembled them. All brass parts in to soak overnight. Checked all passages with pressurized carb cleaner and blew them out as well. Re-assembled today.
Did the carb sync by eyeball as one bank was a little off and one carb on the other bank was open a little farther than it should have been.

Silk.......................pure silk !!

Woohoo!! Good to hear!


Now get out there and ride!

[Pappy!]

Thanks!
Finished just in time for a cold front and steady sprinkle to set in. Still poor weather today and am heading up to Alabama for a week of hunting starting tomorrow so it will have to wait until I get back I guess.

[Wewaman]

search this board;-- great videos on how to restore a tank, clean and sync the carbs.

there is a whole set of videos someone put on this board with Great DIY tips,
just find the one on syncing the carbs.  (no guages required)

good luck and Great riding,
Wewa

[Wewaman]

ok maybe you couldnt pull that up like that, sorry about that.
try this:http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=7rtNABYbpmk