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Author Topic: doing ect mod  (Read 1960 times)
silver337
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San Diego, Ca


« on: December 20, 2012, 01:30:04 PM »

doing ect mod, afterward the bike doesn't gain rpm in gear like it is suppose to. The bike does seem to have a cold start problem. Any ideas?
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Skinhead
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J. A. B. O. A.

Troy, MI


« Reply #1 on: December 20, 2012, 02:00:31 PM »

Undo the ECT mod, see if it runs properly, if it does, recheck your work.
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Troy, MI
silver337
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San Diego, Ca


« Reply #2 on: December 20, 2012, 02:58:05 PM »

The bike runs fine and the cold start problem existed before the mod. it just doesn't pickup the 300  rpm when you put it in gear.
« Last Edit: December 20, 2012, 03:00:38 PM by silver337 » Logged
sugerbear
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wentzville mo


« Reply #3 on: December 20, 2012, 04:32:33 PM »

when the bike is cold, putting it gear increases the rpm.
you have disabled that. it now thinks it's always cold.
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silver337
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San Diego, Ca


« Reply #4 on: December 20, 2012, 10:18:08 PM »

according to the ect mod it is suppose to raise the rpm by 300 when it goes from neutral to in gear. Then drop back down when you go from gear to neutral.
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Bigwolf
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Cookeville, TN


« Reply #5 on: December 21, 2012, 05:08:18 AM »

according to the ect mod it is suppose to raise the rpm by 300 when it goes from neutral to in gear. Then drop back down when you go from gear to neutral.
That is the way mine worked when I had the ECT mod on it.

Bigwolf
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rayvin57
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SW Florida


« Reply #6 on: December 21, 2012, 07:56:06 AM »

Use a multimeter to check for broken solder joints and to see if the resistor and diode are still functional.
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Ricky-D
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South Carolina midlands


« Reply #7 on: December 21, 2012, 08:03:58 AM »

I don't think there is any connection between doing the Ect modification and the idle speed being affected by a transmission shift.

Smoke and mirrors!

There is no fast idle circuit on the Valkyrie and if you want to refer to the cold start enrichment of the carburetor system, well, that's a fuel enrichment independent of anything electrical.

***
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
rayvin57
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SW Florida


« Reply #8 on: December 21, 2012, 08:31:17 AM »

Silver is talking about this line in the ECT mod write up:
"If you got everything right, the engine will idle as normal while in neutral but will pick up an additional 300 +- RPMs when in gear. Shift back into neutral and the RPMs will drop back to normal."
I did the mod and notice an rpm rise, but more like by about between 100 to 200.
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BlueValk
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Albuquerque, NM


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« Reply #9 on: December 21, 2012, 01:51:34 PM »

If you added the extra clutch diode, then the rpms will not increase until you start to let the clutch out (and of course in gear).

No, it is not "smoke and mirrors", the ect mod is only enabled once in gear.

Just thinking:  If you have a cold starting problem and the mod does not seem to work either, maybe your ect sensor is bad.  If it is open (or above ~ 20kohms), then the advance is disabled by the ICM.  So, check your sensor.

BlueValk
« Last Edit: December 21, 2012, 01:55:19 PM by BlueValk » Logged
silver337
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San Diego, Ca


« Reply #10 on: December 22, 2012, 11:00:13 AM »

I measured the ect and it was 4.3 kohms. It still doesn't raise the rpms when you put it in gear but it pulls a lot better in lower speeds.
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fudgie
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Huntington Indiana


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« Reply #11 on: December 22, 2012, 11:53:48 AM »

Once in a great while mine wont so I tap the neck cover, where I have it installed at, and it kicks in.

I dont have the pot on mine. Do you?
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silver337
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San Diego, Ca


« Reply #12 on: December 22, 2012, 12:02:19 PM »

Nope, no pot.
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fudgie
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« Reply #13 on: December 22, 2012, 12:07:20 PM »

You have the right resisters ,etc? Double check the wires? Some are striped and can appear to be a solid color.
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silver337
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San Diego, Ca


« Reply #14 on: December 22, 2012, 12:46:12 PM »

I cross checked the colors with the position in the connector in the picture.
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silver337
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San Diego, Ca


« Reply #15 on: December 22, 2012, 03:06:29 PM »

To see if the ect was working I ran the bike till it reached operating temp, then took an ohm reading, the ect had gone from 4.3 kohm to .5kohm. Just for the hell of it I started the bike with it unpluged and it didn't seem to make any difference. So I don't think the problem is in the mod. Could it be in ICM itself?
« Last Edit: December 22, 2012, 03:57:31 PM by silver337 » Logged
BlueValk
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Albuquerque, NM


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« Reply #16 on: December 22, 2012, 04:55:36 PM »

Sounds like your ect sensor is good. 

You never said if you had added the extra clutch diode or not.  It keeps the rpms at normal with the clutch pulled in.  As soon as you barely release the clutch, the rpms should jump up a bit.

If you did not add the extra diode, then the rpms really should raise when you go into gear (any gear).

You could try disconnecting the ect sensor when the bike is cold and idling in neutral.  Your rpms should drop some.

BlueValk
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silver337
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San Diego, Ca


« Reply #17 on: December 22, 2012, 05:04:19 PM »

I added the 3.9kohm resistor and the 1n4001 diode. If the blue two wire plug is unpluged should that make a difference?
« Last Edit: December 23, 2012, 06:29:52 AM by silver337 » Logged
BlueValk
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Albuquerque, NM


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« Reply #18 on: December 22, 2012, 07:23:15 PM »

Yes, disconnecting that connector when the bike is cold should drop the rpms.

I know it is a pain, but a picture of your installation might do the trick (showing the direction of the diode and the color of the wires).

BlueValk
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silver337
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San Diego, Ca


« Reply #19 on: December 23, 2012, 08:54:18 AM »

here it is
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BlueValk
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Albuquerque, NM


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« Reply #20 on: December 24, 2012, 03:01:39 PM »

Well, it all looks good.  Should be working.

One last check:  With the bike in gear, the key on, bike not running; measure the voltage at the diode/resistor junction.  It should measure about 3v when the bike is warmed up, and almost 4v when the bike is cold.

BlueValk
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silver337
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San Diego, Ca


« Reply #21 on: December 24, 2012, 03:26:43 PM »

Bike in gear cold, key on but not running, .11volts
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BlueValk
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Albuquerque, NM


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« Reply #22 on: December 24, 2012, 05:37:47 PM »

.11 volts is not okay.  But, I was wrong about the 3-4v.  That should be the voltage on the pink wire (p/w).  The voltage at the diode/resistor junction should be about half that when cold.  More as the bike warms up.

So, one side of the resistor should be 0v, and the other ~2v depending on engine temp.  Even if in neutral, there should be about .6v there.

See if you can measure the voltage at the blue connector on the pink wire (either and/or both ends of the blue connector).  It should be 3-4v, it could be 5v (if the ect sensor is unplugged).  If you don't have that voltage, try unplugging the blue connector and check again.

We have got to be getting close now ....

BlueValk
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silver337
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San Diego, Ca


« Reply #23 on: December 24, 2012, 05:53:37 PM »

I really appreciate your help with this, I'll check it tomorrow. Checked pink wire in two wire connector, key on bike not started, no voltage.
« Last Edit: December 25, 2012, 08:34:41 AM by silver337 » Logged
BlueValk
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Albuquerque, NM


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« Reply #24 on: December 25, 2012, 05:39:24 PM »

Well, you are supposed to have voltage there.  It comes from the ICM.  Did you try unplugging the 2 pin blue connector and measure the pink wire coming from the ICM.  Hopefully you will have something there. 

If not, maybe a bad connection at the ICM?  If do have voltage with it unplugged, then maybe it is getting shorted out somewhere.

Good Luck!

BlueValk
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silver337
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San Diego, Ca


« Reply #25 on: December 26, 2012, 09:25:21 AM »

The voltage unpluged is 4.9 volts. silver
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BlueValk
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Albuquerque, NM


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« Reply #26 on: December 26, 2012, 10:15:13 AM »

That is good!  If you don't have the voltage when it is plugged in, then there must be a short to ground on the pink wire, somewhere between the connector and the ect sensor.

Before digging into it, I would try ohming the pink wire to ground and verify that there actually is a short.  I can't imagine how it could be shorted.

Getting closer ....

BlueValk
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silver337
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San Diego, Ca


« Reply #27 on: December 26, 2012, 10:36:15 AM »

Pink wire is clear not shorted to ground. Could it be the sesor, doesn't look like the signal is coming backfrom the sensor. Silver
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BlueValk
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Albuquerque, NM


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« Reply #28 on: December 26, 2012, 11:13:56 AM »

Your sensor tested good.  Maybe it is just a bad contact on that blue connector.  With it connected, check both "ends" of the pink wire.  I am suspecting that you have voltage on the ICM end of the connector, but not on the ect end.

BlueValk
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silver337
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San Diego, Ca


« Reply #29 on: December 26, 2012, 12:37:58 PM »

You were right nothing coming out of sensor side of the connector, took the connector out of the circuit and bam I got 2.6 volts going to the sensor and .65 coming back to the diode. idles great. Thank you sir. Silver



     P.S. It also cured the hard cold start problem.
« Last Edit: December 28, 2012, 01:23:21 PM by silver337 » Logged
BlueValk
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Albuquerque, NM


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« Reply #30 on: December 26, 2012, 12:53:27 PM »

 cooldude
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