Rear Wheel/Final Drive/Drive Flange problem

[Xtracho]

While I'm home I'm installing a new rear tire and servicing the rear end/final drive using ChrisJ's excellent PowerPoint presentation. This morning when I removed the wheel the drive flange did not separate from the final drive with the wheel. The PO told me he had never serviced the rear end/final drive and I'm guessing that has something to do with it. Anyhow, I need some sage advice on how to separate that flange from the final drive unit so I can get to the O-Rings and such. Plus, it will make getting the wheel to mount back on a lot easier. Any ideas or tips will be greatly appreciated.

[Valker]

Slowly apply pry bars.

[9Ball]

remove the dust cover first and don't pry against it or you will damage the plastic.  There's a slot at the bottom that will allow a screwdriver or pry bar to be inserted.

[CajunRider]

That is a fairly normal issue, so don't freak out about it. 

As others said, you can pry it out with a screw driver.  Just be careful not to damage the plastic ring.  There is a slot (in the plastic ring) for that reason, making it easier to get off before you try to remove the rim (for future reference). 

Go slow and take it easy.  It'll come out after a bit of staring at it, working on it, and a beer or two.    

Good luck!! You'll get it out of there!

Don't forget to grease it well before you put it all back together. 

[Xtracho]

Thanks guys! Got it after removing the plastic dust ring and prying with a screwdriver and claw hammer. Jeezus! Dry as a bone and just as rusty. No wonder that flange stayed with the final drive when I took the wheel off. Fortunately the splines, male and female, look good. Driveshaft, pinion cup and drive all have good grease still on them. So it's off to Lowe's for some wire brushes to clean the corrosion off the splines, lube em up with Moly and get that new tire on.

Thanks again for your help!

[Chrisj CMA]

Thanks guys! Got it after removing the plastic dust ring and prying with a screwdriver and claw hammer. Jeezus! Dry as a bone and just as rusty. No wonder that flange stayed with the final drive when I took the wheel off. Fortunately the splines, male and female, look good. Driveshaft, pinion cup and drive all have good grease still on them. So it's off to Lowe's for some wire brushes to clean the corrosion off the splines, lube em up with Moly and get that new tire on.

Thanks again for your help!

Good Job    Just dont get in a hurry and tighten down the 4 final drive nuts before you torque the axle nut and you will be fine.

Glad the PPT helped!

[Xtracho]

Thanks guys! Got it after removing the plastic dust ring and prying with a screwdriver and claw hammer. Jeezus! Dry as a bone and just as rusty. No wonder that flange stayed with the final drive when I took the wheel off. Fortunately the splines, male and female, look good. Driveshaft, pinion cup and drive all have good grease still on them. So it's off to Lowe's for some wire brushes to clean the corrosion off the splines, lube em up with Moly and get that new tire on.

Thanks again for your help!

Good Job    Just dont get in a hurry and tighten down the 4 final drive nuts before you torque the axle nut and you will be fine.

Glad the PPT helped!

It was great Chris. I d/loaded while I was in Rio anticipating doing this when I got home. Yeah. I do the same with my 'Wing. The last nuts to get torqued are the 4 on the final drive. Thanks for the PPT!

[Grumpy]

Thanks guys! Got it after removing the plastic dust ring and prying with a screwdriver and claw hammer. Jeezus! Dry as a bone and just as rusty. No wonder that flange stayed with the final drive when I took the wheel off. Fortunately the splines, male and female, look good. Driveshaft, pinion cup and drive all have good grease still on them. So it's off to Lowe's for some wire brushes to clean the corrosion off the splines, lube em up with Moly and get that new tire on.

Thanks again for your help!

Good Job    Just dont get in a hurry and tighten down the 4 final drive nuts before you torque the axle nut and you will be fine.

Glad the PPT helped!

I think you have that reversed, torque the axle first, then tighten the 4 final drive bolts, that is the proper procedure according to the Honda Manual. Other wise, you can miss align the assembly and cause accelerated wear.

[sandy]

Another point. You mentioned moly. Just get Bel Ray waterproof grease. Lucas EP #2 also is good stuff. Hondas moly paste doesn't last.

[Chrisj CMA]

Thanks guys! Got it after removing the plastic dust ring and prying with a screwdriver and claw hammer. Jeezus! Dry as a bone and just as rusty. No wonder that flange stayed with the final drive when I took the wheel off. Fortunately the splines, male and female, look good. Driveshaft, pinion cup and drive all have good grease still on them. So it's off to Lowe's for some wire brushes to clean the corrosion off the splines, lube em up with Moly and get that new tire on.

Thanks again for your help!

Good Job    Just dont get in a hurry and tighten down the 4 final drive nuts before you torque the axle nut and you will be fine.

Glad the PPT helped!

I think you have that reversed, torque the axle first, then tighten the 4 final drive bolts, that is the proper procedure according to the Honda Manual. Other wise, you can miss align the assembly and cause accelerated wear.

I guess its how you read it.........DONT GET IN A HURRY (and make the mistake of) tightening the 4 bolts before you torque the axle...........

[JWV 99 I]

I currently have the rear tire and wheel off of my Interstate, I am unable to loosen the four bolts on the final drive.  I have soaked with WD 40 for a couple of days and still can not get them loose.  Any recommendations would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

[Steve K (IA)]

Another point. You mentioned moly. Just get Bel Ray waterproof grease. Lucas EP #2 also is good stuff. Hondas moly paste doesn't last.

  on the BelRay waterproof grease.

[Skinhead]

I currently have the rear tire and wheel off of my Interstate, I am unable to loosen the four bolts on the final drive.  I have soaked with WD 40 for a couple of days and still can not get them loose.  Any recommendations would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Use a breaker bar.

[Xtracho]

Another point. You mentioned moly. Just get Bel Ray waterproof grease. Lucas EP #2 also is good stuff. Hondas moly paste doesn't last.

  on the BelRay waterproof grease.

I've got a tub of the BelRay waterproof. Are you saying to use that on the splines instead of the Moly?

[X Ring]

Another point. You mentioned moly. Just get Bel Ray waterproof grease. Lucas EP #2 also is good stuff. Hondas moly paste doesn't last.

  on the BelRay waterproof grease.

I've got a tub of the BelRay waterproof. Are you saying to use that on the splines instead of the Moly?

Lots of guys do.  Just make sure you perform maintenance regularly.

Marty

[Xtracho]

Another point. You mentioned moly. Just get Bel Ray waterproof grease. Lucas EP #2 also is good stuff. Hondas moly paste doesn't last.

  on the BelRay waterproof grease.

I've got a tub of the BelRay waterproof. Are you saying to use that on the splines instead of the Moly?

Lots of guys do.  Just make sure you perform maintenance regularly.

Marty

I thought about lightly coating the splines with the Moly then topping it all off with the Belray.

[Chrisj CMA]

Another point. You mentioned moly. Just get Bel Ray waterproof grease. Lucas EP #2 also is good stuff. Hondas moly paste doesn't last.

  on the BelRay waterproof grease.

I've got a tub of the BelRay waterproof. Are you saying to use that on the splines instead of the Moly?

Lots of guys do.  Just make sure you perform maintenance regularly.

Marty

I thought about lightly coating the splines with the Moly then topping it all off with the Belray.

That idea is a good one, no problem with that, I do it, its right on the PPT I just use a different waterproof grease but its essentialy the same thing

[Xtracho]

Kind of scary that I rode that bike all the way from St. Louis to PCB with that gear as dry as it was.

[Chrisj CMA]

Kind of scary that I rode that bike all the way from St. Louis to PCB with that gear as dry as it was.

Im glad you found and corrected it before serious damage was done.  Keep an eye on it now....bout every 10-12K unless you dont get much more than that out of a tire.  I get 20K+ so I break it down once half way through the tire

[Xtracho]

Kind of scary that I rode that bike all the way from St. Louis to PCB with that gear as dry as it was.

Im glad you found and corrected it before serious damage was done.  Keep an eye on it now....bout every 10-12K unless you dont get much more than that out of a tire.  I get 20K+ so I break it down once half way through the tire

Thanks Chris. All cleaned up now and just waiting for my tire guy to open tomorrow to mount the tire then I'll put it all back together. Then off to get new front/rear OEM brake pads. Those EBC pads on the front buzzing when applied drives me nuts! I've got 3 round trips PCB to Louisiana and one to St. Petersburg to make this month. So I want everything good before I leave. Rest of the day is dedicated to cooking for the girls and......drum roll please....football!

[Patrick]

JWV,, Just double-up your wrenches. Or, give the wrench a rap with a hammer. A sudden 'shock' will usually break things loose.

[Ricky-D]

I'm surprised that you were able to get the wheel out from the swingarm without taking the drive flange with it.

I was thinking it is next to impossible - just not enough room.

You must have pried it like crazy!

***

[Xtracho]

I'm surprised that you were able to get the wheel out from the swingarm without taking the drive flange with it.

I was thinking it is next to impossible - just not enough room.

You must have pried it like crazy!

***

It was tight and with some strategic wiggling and some choice descriptive language it came on off.

[JC]

Let me recommend that you also check the shock bushings for wear. They can really affect the handling if they're worn, and are cheap to replace.

[Chrisj CMA]

I'm surprised that you were able to get the wheel out from the swingarm without taking the drive flange with it.

I was thinking it is next to impossible - just not enough room.

You must have pried it like crazy!

***

It was tight and with some strategic wiggling and some choice descriptive language it came on off.

Some have had to unbolt the final drive and remove the drive attached to the wheel all at once, just another option

[KSDragonRider]

I'm surprised that you were able to get the wheel out from the swingarm without taking the drive flange with it.

I was thinking it is next to impossible - just not enough room.

You must have pried it like crazy!

***

It was tight and with some strategic wiggling and some choice descriptive language it came on off.

Some have had to unbolt the final drive and remove the drive attached to the wheel all at once, just another option

This is actually my preferred way of doing it. it is all coming out anyway, and it is just easier to get it apart with it out from under the bike.

[Xtracho]

I'm surprised that you were able to get the wheel out from the swingarm without taking the drive flange with it.

I was thinking it is next to impossible - just not enough room.

You must have pried it like crazy!

***

It was tight and with some strategic wiggling and some choice descriptive language it came on off.

Some have had to unbolt the final drive and remove the drive attached to the wheel all at once, just another option

This is actually my preferred way of doing it. it is all coming out anyway, and it is just easier to get it apart with it out from under the bike.

Interesting. Maybe something to try next time around.