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Author Topic: driven flange  (Read 1272 times)
Shydog
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Posts: 28


Dresden, Ohio


« on: January 06, 2013, 01:38:47 PM »

Hello guys,

I purchased a 2000 red and black interstate last summer and decided to do some of my own maintenance work this winter. After reading all I could on this site, I decided  to remove the back wheel and check the splines. Didn't have any problems removing the wheel as the flange stayed  in the dampers. Splines were in great shape and had moly on them. I want to check the thrust washer but can't remove the flange out of the dampers. The flange does not give any and the dampers seem to be in great shape. Should I try prying harder on the flange, or am I missing a step somewhere? I'm not sure how much pressure to use with the pry bar on that flange. Any chance of damaging something?

Shydog
East central Ohio
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eric in md
Member
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Posts: 2495


ride hard now we all can rest when were gone !!!

in the mountains .......cumberland md


« Reply #1 on: January 06, 2013, 01:40:38 PM »

keep prying nothin should be holding it in there  go all the way around the flange.
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John Schmidt
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Posts: 15244


a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #2 on: January 06, 2013, 08:10:34 PM »

Like Eric said, keep prying. You're not going to break anything, that's for certain. Use a couple longer screwdrivers on opposite sides and work them together.
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Chrisj CMA
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Posts: 14797


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #3 on: January 07, 2013, 05:16:20 AM »

I have found on wheels where the flange is stuck......its because its been torqued in the dampners.  Before prying any futher, take a small mallet or hammer and carefully tap on the 5 bolts that hold the pins.  do it in a cross pattern just like tightening lug bolts and it may "unlock" the flange
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Valkpilot
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Posts: 2151


What does the data say?

Corinth, Texas


« Reply #4 on: January 07, 2013, 07:55:15 PM »

I have found on wheels where the flange is stuck......its because its been torqued in the dampners.  Before prying any futher, take a small mallet or hammer and carefully tap on the 5 bolts that hold the pins.  do it in a cross pattern just like tightening lug bolts and it may "unlock" the flange

Seems like the flange being stuck is a sign of worn dampners, if I recall correctly.
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VRCC #19757
IBA #44686
1998 Black Standard
2007 Goldwing 
 
   
hubcapsc
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Posts: 16788


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #5 on: January 08, 2013, 06:54:10 AM »


The flange fingers go into aluminum holes. I read that for some reason it
is controversial to lube the flange fingers when doing maintenance, I always
lube them. I guess there could be conditions where the aluminum oxidized
and caused the fingers to be stuck in there real good. Jeff's idear about
tapping on it (I might want to use the rubber mallet and pound on it  Roll Eyes )
might break it loose, whether it is cocked in there or glued on with oxidation...

-Mike "let us know what you think did it when you are done..."
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Shydog
Member
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Posts: 28


Dresden, Ohio


« Reply #6 on: January 08, 2013, 07:26:34 AM »

I finally got up the nerve to use more force on the prybar and the flange broke loose from the dampers without damaging anything.  I was able to pull the dampers out without any trouble after the flange was removed, and they all had about an 1/8 of an inch gap on each side of the rubber.
I'll probably replace the dampers along with the thrust washer, which was not as heavy as I thought it would be. The washer did have moly on both sides of it.

I'm learning as I go and appreciate all the advise from you guys and thanks for the replies.

Another question I just thought of is, I may go to the darkside and was wondering what all I need to remove from the wheel before taking it somewhere to have a new tire mounted. Should I also remove  the flange and dampers and of course, the rotor?

Thanks in advance.
Shydog
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Ricky-D
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Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #7 on: January 08, 2013, 07:33:33 AM »

Nope, you don't need to remove anything from the wheel to get the tire changed.

Any changer worth it's salt grasps the rim by the edges requiring nothing but to have the bead broken on both sides to remove and replace the tire.

Just the flange and thrust washer cause that will fall off (possibly) during the process.

***
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
eric in md
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Posts: 2495


ride hard now we all can rest when were gone !!!

in the mountains .......cumberland md


« Reply #8 on: January 08, 2013, 07:35:13 AM »

just pull flange out .. leave rotor everything else on the wheel.. ps make sure you put in a new value stem ..
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hubcapsc
Member
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Posts: 16788


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #9 on: January 08, 2013, 08:01:34 AM »

just pull flange out .. leave rotor everything else on the wheel.. ps make sure you put in a new value stem ..


There's several good kinds of valve stems, OEM ones are expensive crappy plastic bombs waiting
to go off and leave you on the side of the road...

These are good:
http://www.hondadirectlineofshadyside.com/stores/product.asp?pid=44463&str=2&ID=430781326

-Mike
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Shydog
Member
*****
Posts: 28


Dresden, Ohio


« Reply #10 on: January 08, 2013, 12:41:17 PM »

Yes I was planning on replacing those valve stems when I make up my mind what kind of tires I want.  I'm going to place an order with HDL sometime this month and will order those valve stems and  a new thrust washer. May replace those dampers and a couple sets of shock bushings.

Thanks to you guys for all the good information and advice. There's no other valkyrie owner close to my location that I know of to get help, so this site and all you guys are awesome. Thanks again!

Shydog
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