Valkyrie Riders Cruiser Club
August 05, 2025, 08:05:42 PM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Ultimate Seats Link VRCC Store
Homepage : Photostash : JustPics : Shoptalk : Old Tech Archive : Classifieds : Contact Staff
News: If you're new to this message board, read THIS!
 
MarkT Exhaust
Pages: [1]   Go Down
Send this topic Print
Author Topic: How the 7734 do you seat exhaust studs in the Valk's Aluminum Block?  (Read 957 times)
Kunkies
Member
*****
Posts: 279


Charlotte, NC


« on: January 13, 2013, 06:16:20 AM »

My post "Exhaust studs: anti-seize or Loctite?" of 1/6/2013 @ 5:53am ET refers

Honda Parts Direct has FINALLY shipped my parts and they are to arrive Monday 1/14/2013; tomorrow. Cheesy 

As previously posted, I'm in the midst of an exhaust mod', yet while removing the exhaust 3 of my exhaust studs didn't make it.  Thus, the parts order. 

Wondering if anyone has any advice/feedback/experience with properly seating the 8mm exhaust studs back into the Aluminum block.  Is it hand tighten only, mount two nuts on the opposing 6mm threads with a lock washer and use that to seat, what's the recommended torque, how many beers does it take to complete the job?

So many questions, too few answers

My sincerest thanks in advance for your insights.

-Bob 
Logged
Blackduck
Member
*****
Posts: 642


West Australia


« Reply #1 on: January 13, 2013, 07:27:56 AM »

This could go the way of what to lube rear splines with.
Personally so long as the studs seat all the way finger tight is fine and anti-seize should also be fine.
Think I have seen in ARP's or some such stud supplier recommendations for installing studs.
Beers, well depends on how fast you work, ambient temperature and if you are fixing to go riding when she's all back together plus what tech advisers you have hanging around whilke you work.
Cheers and beers
Steve
Logged

2001 Standard, 78 Goldwing, VRCC 21411
Hooter
Member
*****
Posts: 4092

S.W. Michigan


« Reply #2 on: January 13, 2013, 11:31:07 AM »




Since the stock exhaust or whatever is off already to say "do it with a cold block" isn't necessary. Loc-tite is what I use but to each his own. I just double nut em and "snug" em in. Never had a problem.
Logged

You are never lost if you don't care where you are!
Kunkies
Member
*****
Posts: 279


Charlotte, NC


« Reply #3 on: January 13, 2013, 12:51:10 PM »

Double nutting is what I was thinking too, thanks

Awesome Beer advice (no surprise from this forum!!!)

Logged
Ricky-D
Member
*****
Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #4 on: January 13, 2013, 03:06:44 PM »

Turn them in to the same depth as the others.

No need to torque them and it's better if you don't

Depth is the key, you need the correct amount of threads in the head/stud contact.

Any thread locker is a no no.

***
Logged

2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
Kunkies
Member
*****
Posts: 279


Charlotte, NC


« Reply #5 on: January 15, 2013, 07:00:40 PM »

My parts came, wooo hooo!!!!   Cheesy

Took a brand new 6mm-8mm stud and screwed it into the aluminum block I was not suppose to use a cutting tap to clean out and it fit like a glove.  I hand screwed it in and actually had to use a long nose pliers to loosen her back up to get her out.

This has presented a new problem.  The other two 8mm threads in the block which I did NOT have to re-cut with a tap seem like I can't get the darn things to screw in!!  I'm guessing the brand new teeth on the 8mm studs are the culprit.

Any suggestions?
Logged
Pages: [1]   Go Up
Send this topic Print
Jump to: