Right fork leg disassembly

[YoungPUP]

I've got a new fork slider on the way (thanks Dodis) to replace the rock damaged one on  my Valk.  What I've been seeing in the threads that came up in search is that this may be a job best left to the dealer to completely strip and swap all the parts and spring off of the old slider and into the new one.  Is tearing the spring assembly down that hard or do the threads just make it look really bad? I'm seeing measurements, and making special tools that iI'll never use again, and putting it back together wrong and messing the bikes handling up.... Anything else I'm missing?

[matt]

the right fork take no special tools or adjustment but if you put new in one (fluid and seals) you probably want to do both so it does handle fine. If you pull left apart then you need a special tool . I have done two sets its not to bad. hardest thing I had was gtting forks level on bike so axle slides right thru...  Matt

[Michvalk]

I took mine to the dealer to have the springs changed out, and had new seals put in. It was just easier for me than searching out the tools. I removed the forks, and hauled them in. Went back the next day, and picked them up. No muss no fuss

[olddog1946]

I had my forks rebuilt 3 times in less than a year..and I now have a bad clunk after having the dealer install the progressive springs. Never again will I let some damn dealer screw up my bike, I can do that all by myself and not have to pay for the screw up,lol. 
I bought the tools I needed and will take the forks apart and hopefully figure out what the hell is causing that clunk and take those progressive springs out. They ride way too rough for me, even with 5 wt fork oil. I'm going to go with OEM springs and 15 wt fluid. If that doesn't work, I'll look torward Race Tech stuff.

[stude31]

YoungPup,

It's a reasonably task that I think you can handle.  Check the shop manual and follow the directions.  I also would suggest buying the seal driver tool from motion pro.  It is worth it. I know the pvc idea or cutting old seal and using it to "set" the new seal works but after doing a few the way I mentioned the brass seal driver tool is well worth the price.  I like the looks of this one.. Has a ring that locks it from two parts separating. 


http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0491-Ringer-Driver/dp/B009D291C4

I'd recommend for 18.00 the fluid level tool, as well.

http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0121-Fork-Level/dp/B000GZPCYI/ref=pd_bxgy_auto_text_z

If you are in there I would also suggest upgrading to the progressive springs.

If you have questions feel free to message me or give me a call.

Stude31

[Valker]

I had my forks rebuilt 3 times in less than a year..and I now have a bad clunk after having the dealer install the progressive springs. Never again will I let some damn dealer screw up my bike, I can do that all by myself and not have to pay for the screw up,lol. 
I bought the tools I needed and will take the forks apart and hopefully figure out what the hell is causing that clunk and take those progressive springs out. They ride way too rough for me, even with 5 wt fork oil. I'm going to go with OEM springs and 15 wt fluid. If that doesn't work, I'll look torward Race Tech stuff.

That bad clunk is usually because they forgot/didn't know the fork caps have a screw hole inside that the assembly screws into before installing the caps.

[JaysGone]

olddog and I are in the same boat.
I had a local wrench take mine apart after bring them in to him.
He had never done a set before, of course he didnt tell me that till afterwards.
While he was showing me the hand made and welded tool he made to take the left side apart he says it wasnt too bad to do.

It rode better before he did whatever it was he did do???

Well Ive tried every weight oil and amount in between.
The bike rides really rough up front.
Its the only thing the bike needs in my opinion to be 100%.
Is to have Honda do a rebuild.

The bikes for sale by the way............................................

[olddog1946]

I had my forks rebuilt 3 times in less than a year..and I now have a bad clunk after having the dealer install the progressive springs. Never again will I let some damn dealer screw up my bike, I can do that all by myself and not have to pay for the screw up,lol. 
I bought the tools I needed and will take the forks apart and hopefully figure out what the hell is causing that clunk and take those progressive springs out. They ride way too rough for me, even with 5 wt fork oil. I'm going to go with OEM springs and 15 wt fluid. If that doesn't work, I'll look torward Race Tech stuff.

That bad clunk is usually because they forgot/didn't know the fork caps have a screw hole inside that the assembly screws into before installing the caps.

Temps got up above freezing yesterday, so I pulled the front axle and checked the damper stop bolt, it was tight.  Checked both caps and lock nuts, both of them were good, oil levels were also good. Was getting cold, so I just put it back together til it gets warm enough weather to take em completely apart.