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Author Topic: Exhaust Manifold Studs  (Read 1333 times)
thelt
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« on: February 08, 2013, 05:41:42 AM »

I recently changed my stock exhaust on my '99 I/S to Two Bros. 6 into 6.  After a few hours of riding I notice the manifold nuts had backed off some and were loose. What should I use on the studs to prevent this, Loctite? If so, Red or Blue?
« Last Edit: February 08, 2013, 06:04:49 AM by thelt » Logged

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Valker
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« Reply #1 on: February 08, 2013, 06:15:23 AM »

Use nothing as the studs are easy to break. Just re-torque them until they stop changing.
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BonS
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« Reply #2 on: February 08, 2013, 06:16:00 AM »

Loctite wont work because of the heat. Many use either nothing or copper anti-sieze. The copper stuff is rated to 2000F.
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thelt
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« Reply #3 on: February 08, 2013, 06:30:20 AM »

Thanks guys. I appreciate the quick response.  I was just reading where a guy had to drill out and reinstall a couple of new studs.  I guess I got lucky and didn't break any.
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9Ball
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« Reply #4 on: February 08, 2013, 06:30:47 AM »

just snug them up....again.
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hubcapsc
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« Reply #5 on: February 08, 2013, 06:35:15 AM »


Did you put on six new exhaust gaskets? The OEM ones (hollow copper rings)
mash down some when you put them on, and have to be re-tightened a few
times with each ride as they finish mashing all the way down.

If you didn't replace the gaskets, pay attention for the popping and ticking
of an exhaust leak hidden within the sound of your new TBRs...

-Mike
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MarkT
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« Reply #6 on: February 08, 2013, 07:37:20 AM »


Did you put on six new exhaust gaskets? The OEM ones (hollow copper rings)
mash down some when you put them on, and have to be re-tightened a few
times with each ride as they finish mashing all the way down.

If you didn't replace the gaskets, pay attention for the popping and ticking
of an exhaust leak hidden within the sound of your new TBRs...

-Mike

Ditto on that.  But if you don't want to retighten, you can use Loctite 242 (blue).  Even though it's in a hot place, which might change it's behavior some, it still remains on the threads and adds friction so your nuts don't get lost.  They are spendy and of course, not in stock at most dealers so you don't want to lose them.  It's good to use the capnuts instead of standard nuts because they protect the studs from rust in a high-heat location.   Probably wouldn't hurt to use star washers to retain your nuts - but Honda doesn't use them.  I don't think they ever use lock washers, I've never seen them except as installed by a user.  Or seen them on a microfiche.  Must be a policy.  If you know of an exception, plz advise.
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97Valk_CT_Euless
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« Reply #7 on: February 08, 2013, 07:48:52 AM »

Mine had been replaced in some cases with nuts when I got it.  I replaced them all with "rod couplers" since I couldn't find new cap nuts easily.  They cover the whole thread on the stud and seem to work fine.  Used flat washers under them and retorqued (re-eased them is more like it) about 3 times.  No problems since.
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Cracker Jack
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« Reply #8 on: February 08, 2013, 08:59:07 AM »

It seems that multiple tightnings are always required when installing exhausts in the field. Anybody got any idea why that is not required when the factory installs them on new bikes. I assume they use OEM gaskets and their specified torque.

Cracker
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CajunRider
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« Reply #9 on: February 08, 2013, 10:12:37 PM »

It seems that multiple tightnings are always required when installing exhausts in the field. Anybody got any idea why that is not required when the factory installs them on new bikes. I assume they use OEM gaskets and their specified torque.

Cracker

Luck of the draw.  I've lost exhaust header nuts on brand new bikes before.  Same issue. 
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markmathison
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« Reply #10 on: February 10, 2013, 03:18:49 PM »

I bought my Valk new in '97.  I use Loctite blue gel.  Still, check on rare occasion to ensure nothing has loosened up.  Order extra nuts, studs and at least one set of gaskets (copper).  Tighten each nut in sequence several times.  Mark
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #11 on: February 10, 2013, 03:27:56 PM »

Since vibration on the Valkyrie is practically nonexistent, losing the header nuts should not happen,,,, even with the barest of preventive maintenance.

Mostly, antiseize should be used on those nuts.

If you do lose the expensive acorn nut a simple replacement can be just an additional nut or two.

The acorns are there mainly to keep the weather and driving conditions from rusting the threads thereby making removal of the nuts difficult and possibly breaking a stud.

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