How to clean drive splines?

[GreenValk]

Hello experts,

I've read all the warnings about no grease and worn splines. I purchased my '97 last year. It has about 37,500 miles on it now so I decided to take the wheel off to check. Splines did have grease, but it was very dry. Splines look to be ok, but now it's time to clean it all up and re-assembly. What have you found to be the best cleaning products and methods to get the old grease cleaned off?

Thanks, Steve

[Ricky-D]

A rag, a brush, and some kerosene.

***

[GreenValk]

Thanks Ricky-D,

Any chance the kerosene will get into the pumpkin while trying to get deep into the splines? What about the female end of the driveshaft?  Do I need to worry about cleaning there?

-Steve

[Michvalk]

If you are doing that much, it only takes a few more minuets to remove the driveshaft from the pumpkin and check that. The lube from the pumpkin can leak out from that point, so I would change that while you are in there. The wheel splines will not have any lube from the pumpkin in there, so no worries about the kerosene getting inside. There are quite a few threads on here re: maintance on the rear. Others will chime in, but if your that far in, might as well get it all

[Sparky51]

Can of cheap carb cleaner works well too. Don't be afraid to change those O rings!

[Jess from VA]

Five cans of brake cleaner and tooth brushes.  And eye protection.

[FryeVRCCDS0067]

Q tips.

[fordmano]

Five cans of brake cleaner and tooth brushes.  And eye protection.

Yep, this is very close to what I used.    Except the eye protection ,,, I learned the hard way after the first couple of sprays how important the eye protection was. .... No details needed I would think????

[GreenValk]

New O-rings are on the bench ready for installation, just waiting to get things all cleaned up first. New thrust washer and dust seal too.  Speaking of which. Where does the dust seal go (I have not studied that part yet)?

[Brian]

+1 on everything mentioned here. Eye protection is a must if using the carb or brake cleaner. I usually remove the pumpkin/shaft taking it to the bench for cleaning. I have found that using an old baking pan works great for catching all the crap. The pan even works well if doing this maintenance with the rear end on the swingarm. I recommend you remove the entire driveline including the u-joint for inspection and lubrication. Do a search here for the u-joint removal the shortcut method. It works well. When installing the rear end do not tighten the four nuts till the rear wheel is installed and tightened. This will properly align the splines, just remember to tighten them at the end. Leaving the pumpkin loose also helps to align the splines when installing the rear wheel. Everyone here that does thier own work have little hints to share about this. I know when I started with this bike my vocabulary changed till I learned the sequence. I am sure others will add to this.

Welcome to the group.

[GreenValk]

Reading through Clymers on removing driveshaft pg 379 line item 12 "The stopper ring must be replaced every time the drive shaft is removed from the final drive". But line item 15. says "Do not install a new stopper ring...it is used only during manufacturing". Am I confusion something? It sounds like they are referring to the same part.

[Bone]

 "Do not install a new stopper ring...it is used only during manufacturing."

Mine runs down the road fine without the ring.

[quexpress]

Reading through Clymers on removing driveshaft pg 379 line item 12 "The stopper ring must be replaced every time the drive shaft is removed from the final drive". But line item 15. says "Do not install a new stopper ring...it is used only during manufacturing". Am I confusion something? It sounds like they are referring to the same part.

Honda Service Manual for the Valkyrie:
Page 12-18
Install the new stopper ring.

Page 12-19
- Install the drive shaft into the pinion joint until the stopper ring seats in the pinion spline groove.
- Make sure that the stopper ring is seated properly by pulling on the drive shaft lightly.

IMHO I would trust the Honda instructions.
Note: Since 2002, I have not always used a new stopper ring ... but have always used one. 

[Ricky-D]

I could see in my old pumpkin where the drive shaft had been polishing the end of the pinion gear shaft.

So my take was that the "stopper ring" was not necessary for the proper functioning of that connection.

I left it out.

***

[GreenValk]

Here are pictures of the cleaned up spline. Definitely some wear due to dried up old grease. What do you think? Good to lube and assemble?

[hubcapsc]

That shows wear and would bum me out, but will work good and last a long time
with proper maintenance...

-Mike

[GreenValk]

Yea I was disappointed to see it.  But I don't ride hard and plan to maintain it better now that it's my bike.

[Ricky-D]

You've a hundred thousand miles left in those splines, for sure.

With proper maintenance.

Grease!

***

[GreenValk]

Thanks for the reassurance! drive shaft and u-joint have similar wear. All greased up and back together - drive train that is. Body work goes back on tomorrow. Along with a massive garage cleaning.

[jimmytee]

Reading through Clymers on removing driveshaft pg 379 line item 12 "The stopper ring must be replaced every time the drive shaft is removed from the final drive". But line item 15. says "Do not install a new stopper ring...it is used only during manufacturing". Am I confusion something? It sounds like they are referring to the same part.

I was perplexed about this as well, then I realized, not immediately obvious,  that the clymer manual is talking about two different stopper rings. There is a stopper ring on each end of the drive shaft. If you look you'll see the directions ply to one of them regarding replacement or not to replace.  

I have been fortunate in that with 69,600 miles every part I've looked at seems like new almost. I did find that the o-ring in final drive flange was broken. I suspect it may have been pinched when I had my tire replaced last year.