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Author Topic: new shocks. questions  (Read 1696 times)
jimmytee
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Posts: 2036


Elizabethtown,KY


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« on: February 21, 2013, 07:17:36 PM »

Looking at buying either 440s or 430s any opinions. Also toying with the idea of going to maybe the twelve inchers,  but concerned about affecting handling and cornering clearance. Any thoughts?
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Jess from VA
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Posts: 30533


No VA


« Reply #1 on: February 21, 2013, 09:37:51 PM »

440s are great (among the couple best, with Works), and lifetime warrantied for rebuild or replacement (if you save the proof of purchase); which is a good deal considering that they all will need it eventually.  So when you pay over $500 for them, they are really a lifetime investment, if you will keep your bike for a lifetime, or thereabouts.  One of my new pair from '05 has a tiny leak, but I won't send them in till it's bad enough to affect the ride.  I know nothing of 430s.

I put 13" 440s on my interstate.  Some claim 12.5s are closer to stock, which may be true since stock shocks on a valk are all a decade or older, and all worn a half inch at rest or under your body weight.  But OE shocks are 13" not 12.5".  But new 13" 440s will make you feel a tad taller than OE shocks (they do not sag at rest.. enough to notice).  Also keep in mind that the shocks are behind the rider, so a half inch at the shock will be a bit less than a half inch where you put your feet down.

I got a 2d interstate with 12.5" 440s and I noticed a difference in lean ability, not much, but it was there.  I traded them away for 13s.  I like to rock and roll and drag boards every time I ride, so I would not go under 13 (and I'm 5'9" with 29" inseam) and it's no big deal, and I do not tote around a big (or little) wife either.  Now both my bikes have floorboards, and they limit lean a tad more than pegs so you have add that to the equation as well.

I could live with the 12.5s but not less.  However, if your riding style does not involve much dragging currently, and you ride pegs and not boards, maybe 12s would be fine for you.  Lower shocks do not affect handling per se, just lean angle available.

Another thing to keep in mind is weight and travel.  The taller the shock, the more travel it has available to smooth the ride and absorb bumps.  Shorter shocks have less travel, and the heavier you are means the shock has to do more work with less space to do it in.

And you have to choose between std and HD springs.  If your (and passenger) weights require HD springs, a shorter shock with less travel will work better than std rates, with a bit harder ride.

And consider seat height as well, if putting your feet down is an issue.  One of my bikes is Ultimate Lowboy, an inch under stock seat height, and the other is a Bigboy, an inch over stock seat height, but I do not really notice much difference.  Both have 13s and my feet are down fine (so long as there is not a hole under my foot).  I am mostly a left-foot-down-right-on-the-foot-brake guy, but both go down OK.

If you run a 55 car tire, you are also lower.
« Last Edit: February 21, 2013, 09:57:31 PM by Jess from VA » Logged
jimmytee
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Elizabethtown,KY


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« Reply #2 on: February 22, 2013, 03:33:52 AM »

Thankyou Jess for your input. I have the Ultimate King on my bike and it is a bit taller than stock. I'm 5'8" with probably a similar inseam.I don't have any problems with maneuvering now. Both feet feel pretty secure on the ground when wearing boots, not quite so if I get on with tennis shoes, but I don't feel inadequate in controlling the bike. My thought was, though this might change if I went with the 13" 440s due to,  as you mentioned,  they may not sag as much. So this had me thinking that I might want the 12 inchers if I don't want to experience any less feet to ground relationship. Like you said , $500 is a healthy amount of change, and I don't want to regret my choice.

 As far as handling,  I wasn't sure if the shorter shock in the rear,  would adversely affect the rake at the front. I'm inclined to think it wouldn't be noticeable, but was wondering what other's experiences were. And then there's the cornering clearance issue. I do like to ride aggressive when solo. I don't have floorboards, and one reason is concern over cornering clearance. I ride a lot with my feet up on my highway pegs, even in some agressive cornering coolsmiley.

My main concern is that I'm not relly looking to lower my seat height as much as not change it with the purchase of new shocks.
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hubcapsc
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upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #3 on: February 22, 2013, 03:44:59 AM »


I'm glad I got 13s... I'm 5-11...

I have progressive 440s with HD springs, they're good... the XF6 site vendor
sells works performance shocks... people really like works performance shocks...

-Mike
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jimmytee
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Posts: 2036


Elizabethtown,KY


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« Reply #4 on: February 22, 2013, 04:49:11 AM »

Well Mike it seems you got a three inches ,in height ,  coolsmiley on me. The works shocks have crossed my mind. I'll check 'em out.

I'm glad I got 13s... I'm 5-11...

I have progressive 440s with HD springs, they're good... the XF6 site vendor
sells works performance shocks... people really like works performance shocks...

-Mike
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HayHauler
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Posts: 7214


Pearland, TX


« Reply #5 on: February 22, 2013, 07:35:40 AM »

I have 13" on my 1999 IS and a Big Boy Ultimate.  I am 5'8" and 270.  I also run a Ziex 205/65/16 CT which is taller than stock.  I don't have much trouble reaching the ground on stops unless the ground is uneven or leaning.  In that case, I lean into the hill and put that foot down.  This doesn't happen much in South Texas, but out on trips in the hills/mountains, I notice it sometimes.

Just my $.02

Hay  Cool
Jimmyt
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Oklahoma_Valk
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Posts: 375


Central OK


« Reply #6 on: February 22, 2013, 12:53:23 PM »

I just installed 13'' 440s. I have been running a set of original OEM 75k mile shocks for the last year. The 440s definitely ride better. They raised my bike noticeably. She now leans wayyyy over on the kickstand. I love the ride though, and don't see myself going back to OEM.

I'm unsure if my 440 springs are HD or standard. Also, they are adjusted so that 4 notches are showing on the tops of the shocks. I think this is about "medium" preload. I may be trying to adjust them soon, to make them sag a bit more, because right now I feel like I might fly over the handlebars.

Okie

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Ricky-D
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Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #7 on: February 23, 2013, 10:20:05 AM »

If you are entertaining lowering the bike by way of the rear shocks you need to be aware of possible tire rubbing problems inside the rear fender.

That along with other possible problems having to do with a misaligned running gear (from design parameters) affecting the u-joint. Not necessarily probable, but possible.

The most effective and smart way to lower the bike would be through lower profile tires. Darkside being one possibility.

You can lower the front a bit by simply sliding the shocks up in the triple trees.

***
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
sandy
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Posts: 5398


Mesa, AZ.


« Reply #8 on: February 23, 2013, 11:38:21 AM »

Lowering the rear does 3 things.
It changes the look if that's what you want.

It rakes out the front a bit which slows the handling. It won't turn in easily.

It reduces the suspension travel over bigger bumps.

Other options for shocks are Works Performance and HyperPro in Sweden. Google them. I have Works on the Valk and Hyper Pros in the front of the Wing. Love both.
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