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Author Topic: brakes Oss cluless  (Read 1431 times)
Oss
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The lower Hudson Valley

Ossining NY Chapter Rep VRCCDS0141


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« on: March 02, 2013, 08:45:18 AM »

Well I finally got pressure in the brake system, figured where the 2nd small clip went
after it flew out over my head and fortunately where I could find it
 and put the caliper on     Shocked

but  while I have great pressure I have the same problem as with the
old caliper which is the pistons/caliper do not release the pads when I let go of the brake
so

I compared the new one to the right caliper Valker sent me to the one I took off the bike

Looking at the bike from the right side an inch or so below the bolt that attached the caliper to the bike is a pin that has a rubber booty
My old caliper did not have this booty, I will take a couple of pics and post to this thread in a bit

it looks like its hung up and my "guess" is that is why the caliper wont let go of the brakes

How do I fix this

I am just about ready to ride to the stealer and pay a hundred bucks in labor just to get her back on the road after over a month and am at wits end here

any ideas?

Thanks




I could not use the old caliper as I cant get the screw out to access the pin Valker gave me the new caliper and even put new seals in it  I feel terrible that I cant complete this change over after he went
to such trouble to help out
« Last Edit: March 02, 2013, 08:58:35 AM by Oss » Logged

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Ricky-D
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Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #1 on: March 02, 2013, 09:22:38 AM »

Looks like it's the pin "screw cover" and not the pin itself.

The rubber covers are protecting the important parts of the "floating" for the calipers so the calipers STAY "floating"

A lot of times brakes problems appear from not having the axle in the proper position with the shock. If you did not mess with the axle that should not be a worry.

The caliper pads do not pull away from the rotor. The only thing that happens when you release the brake lever is that the pressure is released within the caliper.

Many times problem such as this occur because all the air has not been bled from the system.

***
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
YoungPUP
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Valparaiso, In


« Reply #2 on: March 02, 2013, 09:36:32 AM »

I had a problem with dragging pads this past summer.  Rebuild the calipers and it fixed the problem.  The amount of crap in the piston bores was shocking.
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old2soon
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Willow Springs mo


« Reply #3 on: March 02, 2013, 09:54:32 AM »

My rear caliper locked up on me last year. When i got it off and blew the pistons out of the bores with compressed air i had a LOT of corrosion on the exposed part of the bores and the exposed part of the pistons. I took scotch brite to the bores and pistons and installed new O rings. End of problem. I'm NOT saying this is your problem but it might be. When i put new pads on the front it went back together fine. Hope this helps you some. RIDE SAFE.
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Jess from VA
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No VA


« Reply #4 on: March 02, 2013, 11:23:53 AM »

Grease the pins the pads travel on?
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Chrisj CMA
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Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #5 on: March 02, 2013, 11:29:58 AM »

Oss....if you will mount that caliper on the forks.  Get a GOOD screwdriver (sharp, not worn) that fits the cap properly (most people use one that is too small) tap the end of the handle with a small hammer right before you giver a try it should break loose.

They are always hard to remove if the caliper is off the forks
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Ricky-D
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South Carolina midlands


« Reply #6 on: March 02, 2013, 01:22:43 PM »

Well, with no success there could be a difference if the pads were only replace on one caliper but I can't believe it would be a noticeable difference such as is causing you to notice.

One possible cause may be the seals within the caliper or something like maybe crud or corrosion that is restricting the pistons from returning to the place where the pads are not pushing hard.

Another thing is the pins that the caliper ride on. The pins that are protected by the rubber covers. if they become corroded or gummed up to where the caliper is not allowed to center itself on the rotor, I can imagine a binding might occur with the pads.  It's pretty easy to check that the caliper can move on the pins when you have the caliper off the shock. It should move back and forth on the caliper bracket pretty freely.

You could also test for easy movement with the caliper back on the shock but with no pads installed. You should notice an equal amount of available space between the caliper and each side of the rotor with the caliper sliding to the full extent of the travel.

Check to make sure the bracket is not deformed in any way. A fender bender could easily do this.

There have been a few threads regarding similar problems such as this and correction was related to worn rotor with ridges and a wearing in process to get the pads to fit better against the rotors.

***
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
Oss
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The lower Hudson Valley

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« Reply #7 on: March 02, 2013, 01:33:07 PM »

yes I did use search before asking my question

 since I have 80k on the bike and the last 2 sets of front brakes one pad on the right was worn to nothing I ordered and installed new rotors using new bolts  There was a pretty good ridge on that right rotor  the left was ok but I changed it anyway.  Will have my mechanic friend in the bronx check em with the micrometer and turn them so maybe I can still use em for an emergency in another 100k

I have some synthetic mobil1 grease and in the morning will go out to the garage and take off the caliper.  see if I can free up that rubber boot, grease the pin and take a ride slowly up the road
listening for the sound of brakes dragging

I cant imagine a problem  with the pistons or seals as Valker says that he just put the seals on the new caliper and cleaned it well

The problem must be in either the pin,the boot or my improperly assembling the brakes themselves
maybe there is still air in there somewhere
wish it wasnt 30 degrees in the garage
Thanks ricky
« Last Edit: March 02, 2013, 01:34:55 PM by Oss » Logged

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Valker
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Texas Panhandle


« Reply #8 on: March 02, 2013, 02:24:27 PM »

OSS, my friend, sorry if this is an obvious question, but when you installed the front wheel did your front axle go in all the way? End should be completely flush with the front fork? Did you bounce it before tightening stuff up?
That pin should be easy to take out of the caliper that I sent. I assembled it loosely and used anti-seize.
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MP
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1997 Std Valkyrie and 2001 red/blk I/S w/sidecar

North Dakota


« Reply #9 on: March 02, 2013, 04:35:19 PM »

You had the front wheel off?

If so, loosen it up, and go thru the procedure again.  Make sure the axle is in, as valker said.  I have had that problem before!  It will seem like it is seated, but it is not quite all the way.

MP
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Ricky-D
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South Carolina midlands


« Reply #10 on: March 03, 2013, 07:52:33 AM »

Oss writes:
Quote
one pad on the right was worn to nothing


This is a strong indication that the caliper is not floating, but rather, locked in a position where the stopping force from that caliper is being forced to one side only.

***
« Last Edit: March 04, 2013, 10:59:37 AM by Ricky-D » Logged

2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
olddog1946
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Moses Lake, Wa


« Reply #11 on: March 04, 2013, 08:38:08 AM »

Sounds to me like the caliper is frozen on that pin. It should be free to slide on it when the brakes are applied and released.  Get that pin off and sand it smooth, you'll find it's corroded/rusted.
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custom1
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01 Interstate

SW Pa


« Reply #12 on: March 04, 2013, 10:02:01 AM »

This was from my rear brakes. The pin was rusted.



And this is how the pads were worn. Didn't stop very well either. Basically one shoe doing all the work.

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John
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