Help with figuring out carb why two carbs won't balance.

[stude31]

Carb issue:

Ok..  I have pulled the carbs and rebuilt these carbs and when installed back on the bike.  I found that 4 and 6 would not balance with 3.  The vacuum was off the charts high.  I backed the adjustment screw on both carbs all the way out and still wasn't even close. 

Yesterday I pulled the carbs back out, took them apart and stripped them down thinking by chance one was still plugged up.  I verified all ventrilos are free and put them back together and fired it back up and still 4 and 6 still are way off.  I removed the springs on the back side of the adjustment screws (see pic below).  To my amazement you can see in the first picture that 2,4,and 6 when in WOT all 4,6 are in exact position but 2 is much higher. 

Now.  If I push on the top bracket of #2 you can see where the linkage is on #4 (down) and 6 (is up).  Is this normal?    I'm wondering if #2 linkage is not correct and should be more "down", or the opposite, 4 and 6 need to go up? 

In advance.  I did do the "bench test" and tried that.  I double checked the linkage the connects L and R banks and looks the same on my two valks.  Any gear heads that ever paid much attention please provide your thoughts.

Thanks guys.

Stude31

[Warlock]

Carb issue:

Ok..  I have pulled the carbs and rebuilt these carbs and when installed back on the bike.  I found that 4 and 6 would not balance with 3.  The vacuum was off the charts high.  I backed the adjustment screw on both carbs all the way out and still wasn't even close. 

Yesterday I pulled the carbs back out, took them apart and stripped them down thinking by chance one was still plugged up.  I verified all ventrilos are free and put them back together and fired it back up and still 4 and 6 still are way off.  I removed the springs on the back side of the adjustment screws (see pic below).  To my amazement you can see in the first picture that 2,4,and 6 when in WOT all 4,6 are in exact position but 2 is much higher. 

Now.  If I push on the top bracket of #2 you can see where the linkage is on #4 (down) and 6 (is up).  Is this normal?    I'm wondering if #2 linkage is not correct and should be more "down", or the opposite, 4 and 6 need to go up? 

In advance.  I did do the "bench test" and tried that.  I double checked the linkage the connects L and R banks and looks the same on my two valks.  Any gear heads that ever paid much attention please provide your thoughts.

Thanks guys.

Stude31

From a quick glance you adjustment screws souldn't be facing down.
David

[Ricky-D]

It seems to me that there are some springs missing in those adjustment assemblies.

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[sugerbear]

i think some of the springs are in the wrong place.
look at an  exploded view

[Oklahoma_Valk]

Springs missing in your adjustment screw assembly. Easy fix. Pesky problem. See parts schematic on HDL for ordering new ones if old ones are lost. I'll try to find a pic of what that assembly should look like.

[stude31]

i guess I left that part out. I removed them to see if all three carbs were opening butterflys.  I removed mine on my tourer and they acted the same.

[Joevalk]

Seems to me you have a vacuum leak somewheres

[stude31]

Seems to me you have a vacuum leak somewheres

Impossible...  Did the desmog...  (I have done at least a dozen desmogs and I went through and double checked.)

I took my tourer apart and all looked the same, put it back together and will do a compression test and leak down test and make sure everything is tight.

This is just weird.

[Grumpy]

In your pictures, the right hand adjuster should have 2 springs on the right hand screw, one on the outside and one on the inside. these are the right side bank. but shows the proper place for the springs. With out the springs in the proper place, you never be able to sync the carbs.  Next time you take some thing apart, take some pictures before you tear it apart, really helps putting things back where they belong.

Note the left side is the last 2 pictures.




Here are the left side carbs

[stude31]

Thanks Grumpy but that wasn't my question.  I know the springs are out, I removed them and looked at the bracket that the springs hit against and without them in the bracket on 4,6 do not line up w/ 2.  But after removing the springs from my tourer I found out that the alignment is normal thus concluding my thought that maybe something on the rail was altered.  Now off to more trouble shooting. 

This is what is troubling is that I have torn down a dozen carbs and rebuilt them and this is the first bike that has caused me frustration as to why I can't get the carbs to balance.  I would say that I am a pretty good mechanic on these, just that this one has stumped me.

Going for a ride... it's nice out!!

[Joevalk]

You can get a vacuum leak from other areas than the stuff you removed when you desmogged it. If you backed the adjustment screws all the way out and still have too much vacuum on the gauge means you have a vacuum leak

[Oklahoma_Valk]

If you happen to pull the carb bank again, you might check the integrity of the linkage rail which connects the R and L carb banks. Upon first rebuild, I bent mine.....couldnt get em to balance. Couldnt get em to adjust. It was that darn linkage.

[Ricky-D]

It's been a long time since messing with the carburetors but I'm willing to take a crack at it.

In your pictures it would seem that #2 is the one carburetor that is moved by the arm that is coming across from the other side.

When you push down on #2 you can see in the pictures that #4 is the only carburetor that moves.

#4 then will move #6 carburetor.

So, only #2 carburetor will synchronize with the carburetors on the right hand side. (#1, #3, and #5)

You necessarily have to first get the right side carburetors synchronized together first.

The most important additional point to do with this synchronizing effort is to keep the rpm's consistent. That is why the suggestion to get a good accurate tachometer. Honda realizes the bike tachometer is not sufficient to secure a good outcome.

Then you synchronize #2 to the right side figure. This may require more adjustment on the right side in order to get all four carburetors to match. That would be (#1, #3, and #5) now including #2 carburetor.

Only after have all four carburetors synchronized should you attempt to deal with #4 and #6 carburetors.

Attempting to shortcut this procedure is not appropriate and will not result in acceptable results.

Which is what you are experiencing.

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