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JerryH
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« on: March 28, 2013, 12:03:49 PM » |
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OK...I will be pulling the front and back wheels soon (I hope, still some ice in the drive way blocking my way from the storage barn to the garage). I will be getting the wheels powered coated with "Mirror Black". When I remove the front and rear rotors can I, or should I replace the rotor bolts with new ones or reuse the old ones? The rotors have never been off the bike (97' Bumble Bee).
I plan on installing new belts (16 years old), rear O-rings, thrust washer, snap ring on the drive shaft, new valve stems (black, all metal, 83 degree), etc. I might do the left rear bearing modification.. not sure yet.
What do you think...install new front bearing? or just check them out? 53,000 miles on the bike.
Give me the names of some American Made bearings please.
Did I miss anything?
TIA
Jerry
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #1 on: March 28, 2013, 12:46:26 PM » |
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No need to messs with bearings if they are good leave them be. Before removing the rear wheel (while its on the lift) grab the bottom of the wheel and try to move it side to side. A slight VERY slight "tic tic" type of movement indicates bad wheel bearings (probably the left one) solid and they turn smooth leave it be.
There should be no reason to change the snap ring on the drive shaft unless you are removing it to replace the oil seal.
the tightening sequence of the rear end parts is critical...I made a powerpoint slide show about it. Its in shop talk under tech tips.........Chrisj's rear end service or something like that
Oh, and about the rotor bolts.........yes we are supposed to put new ones on each time. Some do, some will reuse once, a few reuse many times over......Its kinda up to you.
If you get new ones Id pay shipping to get the old ones......I use them for a project
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« Last Edit: March 28, 2013, 12:49:26 PM by Chrisj CMA »
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Tropic traveler
Member
Posts: 3117
Livin' the Valk, er, F6B life in Central Florida.
Silver Springs, Florida
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« Reply #2 on: March 28, 2013, 07:55:06 PM » |
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As long as there is no damage to the rotor bolts I re-use them. Clean them thoroughly, including the holes they go in, & apply blue Loctite upon reassembly.
Done it many times, no problemos.
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'13 F6B black-the real new Valkyrie Tourer
'13 F6B red for Kim
'97 Valkyrie Tourer r&w, OLDFRT's ride now!
'98 Valkyrie Tourer burgundy & cream traded for Kim's F6B
'05 SS 750 traded for Kim's F6B
'99 Valkyrie black & silver Tourer, traded in on my F6B
'05 Triumph R3 gone but not forgotten!
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gordonv
Member
Posts: 5763
VRCC # 31419
Richmond BC
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« Reply #3 on: March 28, 2013, 08:43:11 PM » |
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I just bought 18 ea for $90. Figured that they will never be removed/replaced again, so went for spending the extra cash. I even have the ones off my Valk IS after parting out the rotors from the rims.
Chris, send me an email and I'll see about shipping them (old bolts) to you, for all your support of the fellow members.
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1999 Black with custom paint IS   |
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John Schmidt
Member
Posts: 15241
a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike
De Pere, WI (Green Bay)
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« Reply #4 on: March 28, 2013, 08:54:00 PM » |
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If you are having the wheels power coated, that entails cooking the wheels at a fairly high temp for an extended period. What do you think that will do to the seals on those bearings, let alone the grease inside? If it were me, I'd strip the wheels completely. As for the rotor bolts, do as was suggested....clean and reuse. Done it myself with no issues whatsoever.
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Hook#3287
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« Reply #5 on: March 29, 2013, 04:23:08 AM » |
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It's good to have some extra. If your not careful w/tourqe, they snap easily  |
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #6 on: March 29, 2013, 05:36:33 AM » |
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I just bought 18 ea for $90. Figured that they will never be removed/replaced again, so went for spending the extra cash. I even have the ones off my Valk IS after parting out the rotors from the rims.
Chris, send me an email and I'll see about shipping them (old bolts) to you, for all your support of the fellow members.
Wow!!!!! Thanks...........PM on the way  |
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #7 on: March 29, 2013, 05:43:29 AM » |
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If you are having the wheels power coated, that entails cooking the wheels at a fairly high temp for an extended period. What do you think that will do to the seals on those bearings, let alone the grease inside? If it were me, I'd strip the wheels completely. As for the rotor bolts, do as was suggested....clean and reuse. Done it myself with no issues whatsoever.
Ya, I didnt know (or forgot) about the high temp thing..........Im sure that would toast the bearings unfortunately........I have to agree with John in that case. There is no way to remove and replace bearings without hurting them....... |
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Dagwood
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« Reply #8 on: March 29, 2013, 08:03:25 AM » |
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There are a number of opinions about best bearings. If you want OEM, I think HDL has Koyo. I just ordered Boss Bearings, on sale from their website. Got front and back for under $40. First time change out, so no personal opinion for or against.
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Youth and Skill are no Match for Age and Treachery  |
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salty1
Member
Posts: 2359
"Flyka"
Spokane, WA or Tucson, AZ
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« Reply #10 on: March 30, 2013, 11:41:26 AM » |
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As long as there is no damage to the rotor bolts I re-use them. Clean them thoroughly, including the holes they go in, & apply blue Loctite upon reassembly.
Done it many times, no problemos.
+1 You may want to polish the bolt heads. Have you thought about painting or coating the inner part of the rotor to match the new color of your wheels? Then there's the calipers...  |
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My rides: 1998 GL1500C, 2000 GL 1500CF,2006 GL 1800 3A   |
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