Checking out a I/S

[BIG--T]

I am thinking about buying a I/S and need to know if it's normal to be hard to start when it's cold. I've got to travel out of state to see it and the guy said he had to fully choke it and run a little while before it smooths out. In this warm weather I don't even have to choke my standard.

Also, what should I pay close attention to and check? He said the CB worked but didn't have a helmet....so I'm wondering how he knows! Where is it located and does it have a dual trip meter on it?

Thanks in advance. I'm headed out on a 7 hour ride in the morning so I sure hope it's everything he says it is! 

[BonS]

The CB can play through the speakers just like the radio so you don't need a helmet to check it out. An I/S starts and runs just like a standard. If the slo-jets are partially clogged it may take more time before it can be taken off choke. The standard slo-jets are .035 and run quite lean even if perfectly clean. A little build-up and they can run really lean - hence the choke issue. I put .038's in mine and all is good. Many here have done it as well (but not all of course). It does have a dual trip meter on it. The plastic parts on an I/S are expensive so check them out for cracks and other issues as they're expensive to replace!! Go here and download the I/S manual for instructions on the radio and trip meters along with everything else!! http://valkyrienorway.com/download.html

[BIG--T]

Thanks Bons, I thought the same thing about running the cb through the speakers. If he lied about that, there's no telling what else.  If the slow jets are that bad, maybe I can put some techron in it for 500 miles that might help. Thanks for the link!

[old2soon]

One key operates everything on an I/S-ignition fork lock saddle bags and trunk. Mine had the bra on it when I bought it. It hid a scratch I wasn't aware of til after the sale. The saddle bag lids have 2 tethers per lid. The radiator side pods-look at them as they are spendy as BonS pointed out. Look closely at the bottom of the saddle bags on BOTH sides-if they are cracked it may have been down. And it's mostly just everyday stuff to check out on a used motorcycle. Hope it turns out to be a good buy for you.   RIDE SAFE.

[BIG--T]

One key operates everything on an I/S-ignition fork lock saddle bags and trunk. Mine had the bra on it when I bought it. It hid a scratch I wasn't aware of til after the sale. The saddle bag lids have 2 tethers per lid. The radiator side pods-look at them as they are spendy as BonS pointed out. Look closely at the bottom of the saddle bags on BOTH sides-if they are cracked it may have been down. And it's mostly just everyday stuff to check out on a used motorcycle. Hope it turns out to be a good buy for you.   RIDE SAFE.

What is a tether? Yes I will check for cracks. He said there was some kind of mark on the bottom of one bag but said t wasn't a crack. I will def check up under!

[old2soon]

Tether-cable thingy that keeps the saddle bag lid with the bag when open.  Hope that explains it.  RIDE SAFE.

[BIG--T]

Tether-cable thingy that keeps the saddle bag lid with the bag when open.  Hope that explains it.  RIDE SAFE.

Haha Thx old2soon, why didn't ya just say cables!! Hard fer me to unner stan dem big werds! Lol

[Gary]

For what its worth, my 97 Std starts without a choke most of the time, my 2K IS needs the choke if its even slightly cool out. Have been running Techron and Seafoam through the IS fairly regularly, especially on long trips, for the past few years.

The IS probably needs some carb fine tuning but just thought I'd pass that on. After a minute or few it straightens out.

As mentioned, check for mismatched key slots, scrapes or damage to crash bars, pipes, bags, bag rails, trunk, clutch/brake levers and grip ends, turn signals, fairing, or bent foot pegs for signs of a potential downed bike. I also tend to check for a brief no hands balance ride to check for general alignment.

Check brake/clutch fluid for acceptable color. Tires for any unusual wear pattern. Check inside gas tank for visible signs of rust around filler neck hole and further.

Check fasteners and metal for signs of corrosion to also indicate outside storage or general neglect. A quick glance at header head nuts for missing nuts or broken studs. ( I had one broken).

Ask for copies of any/all available repair records.

Also ask about any known upgrades or add-ons, wiring, etc that were done and even how wiring was run, relays and switches for your own later potential re-do if needed.

Keep in mind if they replaced the petcock with a Pingel, you may not have your reserve distance for the return trip home.

None of the above intended to be deal breakers, just to give you a better idea of what you can expect upfront expense-wise later and maybe even a further price negotiation tool.

Dual trip located in the center of the dash, a black rubberized oval shaped button. A solid push will change to odometer, to trip 1 and trip 2. Push and hold on 1 or 2 to zero out.

Hope it all works out for you, good luck. 

[mirion]

Same here, my 97 Std never needs the choke above 50 degrees f  and the IS needs to be choked on a hot day, seems to be a common thing.

[Willow]

It seems they each start a little differently.  One of my Standards almost never needs the enricher.  The other Standard and the Interstate will need to be choked if they don't start on the first attempt.

[Hoser]

Look under the trunk, some folks see the cb switch and just assume they have a cb.  Dual antennas are a good clue too. Don't ask me how I know that!    Hoser  

[flsix]

Like BonS said, changing the slow jets from 35's to 38's made a big difference in starting for my 99 I/S. Don't need to choke at all now. Look for cracks in the side covers at the tab that fits into the slots in the center panel. The center panel is where you insert the key to unlock the seat latch to remove the seat.
Hope it works out to be a good buy.

[BIG--T]

For what its worth, my 97 Std starts without a choke most of the time, my 2K IS needs the choke if its even slightly cool out. Have been running Techron and Seafoam through the IS fairly regularly, especially on long trips, for the past few years.

The IS probably needs some carb fine tuning but just thought I'd pass that on. After a minute or few it straightens out.

As mentioned, check for mismatched key slots, scrapes or damage to crash bars, pipes, bags, bag rails, trunk, clutch/brake levers and grip ends, turn signals, fairing, or bent foot pegs for signs of a potential downed bike. I also tend to check for a brief no hands balance ride to check for general alignment.

Check brake/clutch fluid for acceptable color. Tires for any unusual wear pattern. Check inside gas tank for visible signs of rust around filler neck hole and further.

Check fasteners and metal for signs of corrosion to also indicate outside storage or general neglect. A quick glance at header head nuts for missing nuts or broken studs. ( I had one broken).

Ask for copies of any/all available repair records.

Also ask about any known upgrades or add-ons, wiring, etc that were done and even how wiring was run, relays and switches for your own later potential re-do if needed.

Keep in mind if they replaced the petcock with a Pingel, you may not have your reserve distance for the return trip home.

None of the above intended to be deal breakers, just to give you a better idea of what you can expect upfront expense-wise later and maybe even a further price negotiation tool.

Dual trip located in the center of the dash, a black rubberized oval shaped button. A solid push will change to odometer, to trip 1 and trip 2. Push and hold on 1 or 2 to zero out.

Hope it all works out for you, good luck. 

Thanks Gary for all that valuable info, especially about the key slots which I'd never thought about. It is strange  about the difference starting the two, and as mentioned I never need the choke on my Standard- must be as I/S thing! Since you have both bikes, I have a few questions. In hot weather do you feel more heat from the I/S with the big windshield, fairing and pods? I know it would be more top heavy- but I'm used to that with my 1800. How about the speed and handling in the twisties compared to the Std? Just guessing I would think the Std would have the edge?   

[BIG--T]

Look under the trunk, some folks see the cb switch and just assume they have a cb.  Dual antennas are a good clue too. Don't ask me how I know that!    Hoser  

Uh Oh, this one just has one antenna! Where is the actual cb located? He said he didn't have the helmet to hear it...but can't it be set to the speakers? 

[NITRO]

Look under the trunk, some folks see the cb switch and just assume they have a cb.  Dual antennas are a good clue too. Don't ask me how I know that!    Hoser  

Uh Oh, this one just has one antenna! Where is the actual cb located? He said he didn't have the helmet to hear it...but can't it be set to the speakers? 

The CB would be under the trunk (OEM location), or behind the battery. Yes, you can hear the CB through the speakers.

[BIG--T]

Like BonS said, changing the slow jets from 35's to 38's made a big difference in starting for my 99 I/S. Don't need to choke at all now. Look for cracks in the side covers at the tab that fits into the slots in the center panel. The center panel is where you insert the key to unlock the seat latch to remove the seat.
Hope it works out to be a good buy.

Yeah I read a lot are going to 38s, but would it decrease the mpg? Yeah I know about the tabs- I broke mine when I first got her! Honda should've done a better job there!

Thanks  

[BonS]

One of the confounding things about learning the I/S audio settings is that you can direct the sound either to the speakers or the helmet. The CB and the radio are directed separately from one another to either the speakers or helmet. And furthermore the radio and CB are turned on and off separately. That's why the I/S manual and practice, practice, practice are required to get it right. Every Spring it takes me a while to re-familiarize myself with these controls.

[BonS]

Yeah I read a lot are going to 38s, but would it decrease the mpg? Yeah I know about the tabs- I broke mine when I first got her! Honda should've done a better job there!

Thanks  

Many here have experienced some mileage loss. I never noticed it. The air mixture screws need to be adjusted from around 2-1/2 turns to about 1-3/4 turns on each of the carburetors to account for the larger jets. For me, it made my I/S much less sensitive to the choke. My I/S was cold natured and I had to feather the choke for a long time as the engine warmed up. Also, as I gently pulled away from a standing start it reduced the likelihood that the engine would stall under this light load. I don't like an engine that may leave me stuck out in an intersection and stall. so I went to 38's and both of these issues went away. I also haven't had a clogged slo-jet since. The larger hole is simply harder to plug and may be easier to clean.

[BIG--T]

Thanks BonS for those tips and they shouldn't make it that complicated that you have to relearn it every year! lol. I'll find out about the 38s in time. Btw, I couldn't open that link you posted, but I'll try another approach.   

[old2soon]

Did you purchase that I/S you were looking at??  RIDE SAFE.

[Gary]

Since you have both bikes, I have a few questions. In hot weather do you feel more heat from the I/S with the big windshield, fairing and pods? I know it would be more top heavy- but I'm used to that with my 1800. How about the speed and handling in the twisties compared to the Std? Just guessing I would think the Std would have the edge?   

The IS does seem a bit hotter but then I have Bakers on my Std to help redirect. You do tend to notice the blowing heat from those IS pods. I now have a shorter shield, the heat with the new shield doesn't seem to be any noticable factor vs the Std. That initial taller Showchrome shield definitely seemed noticable.

Even the new short shield allows that stable or dead zone in which bee's and wasps can still gracefully float inches from your face without any trouble.

The handling seems pretty much the same in the twisties, however a loaded trunk will catch you initially, especially backing out of a driveway... After that, not an issue.

So what's the verdict, is it a go?

[BIG--T]

Since you have both bikes, I have a few questions. In hot weather do you feel more heat from the I/S with the big windshield, fairing and pods? I know it would be more top heavy- but I'm used to that with my 1800. How about the speed and handling in the twisties compared to the Std? Just guessing I would think the Std would have the edge?   

The IS does seem a bit hotter but then I have Bakers on my Std to help redirect. You do tend to notice the blowing heat from those IS pods. I now have a shorter shield, the heat with the new shield doesn't seem to be any noticable factor vs the Std. That initial taller Showchrome shield definitely seemed noticable.

Even the new short shield allows that stable or dead zone in which bee's and wasps can still gracefully float inches from your face without any trouble.

The handling seems pretty much the same in the twisties, however a loaded trunk will catch you initially, especially backing out of a driveway... After that, not an issue.

So what's the verdict, is it a go?

I don't have any bakers on my standard  and in the summer I sure can feel the heat from the heads! I believe I've seen some members that may have cut down their shield and gave it a rounded look which I may try.  I will find out the verdict tomorrow. 

[BIG--T]

Did you purchase that I/S you were looking at??  RIDE SAFE.

No, not yet but hope to tomorrow if it's all he claims it is.