Load Rating: Front radial vs. Rear bias on front

[F6Viking]

I have had my I/S since new in 99 and have ran the original stock, E3, and ME880 fronts. Currently have an ME880 on.
 
I have been doing a lot of searches (yes, I know search is my friend) concerning rear tire on the front and have only been able to find a few references to load ratings.

I am in my 4th year with D/S on rear and am getting ready to replace the front.

I have read much about size variances but as mentioned very little has been brought up about load ratings as far performance is concerned.

I am really interested in the D404 many are running but am curious in regards to what the thoughts are regarding the load rating differences.
Current ME880 150/80-17 (radial) has load rating of 72=783#
D404 130/90-17 (bias) has load rating of 68= 694#

I run 1 up most of the time but my wife and I do load the bike and take off on 3-7 day trips 2 or 3 times a summer and the 90+ pound difference in load rating made me take pause before ordering the D404.

TIA to everyone

[MP]

No way you put 694# on the front wheel!

[Ricky-D]

Besides, that's a safe load carrying figure.

There's a safety factor already incorporated into the computation

that is probably a factor of two.

***

[old2soon]

I am currently running a D-404 in 130-90-17. D/S rear. It seems to handle a little quicker in the twistys. Stopping power is very good-looking at the tire tells me i'm getting more lean angle in the curves and at 235 pounds and way too much chit in the saddle bags I am NOWHERE near concerned about my front tire. I'm keeping 43-44 P S I in the front and 33-34 P S I in the rear. Hope this helps. RIDE SAFE.

[F6Viking]

old2soon, I'll keep those PSI in mind when I finally pull the trigger and get the order placed.

[salty1]

The load rating as pointed out is for the one tire, but you ride on both tires which reduces and equalize the total weight on either tire. Without getting personel, the overall load that can be added to the weight of your bike is probably far over what you and your wife can contribute and D404 and Metz will handle OK.  What do you think? ???

[MarkT]

I'm running a K491 in front which is the predecessor to the 404.  It has around 22k on it now and if I flop it over to wear the right side to match the left I think it will go to 30k.  I run a little lower pressure because it's bias - 38.  Handling is good, traction very good.

[F6MoRider]

As the vehicle and cargo loads are distributed to both tires, the tires max weight value can be doubled to better understand overall weight.  So, at ~700lbs rated, you can have a load of 1400lbs without stressing the tires but you do need to understand that tire pressure should also be considered.  Max weight should also have max pressure measured when the tire is cold.

[MP]

As the vehicle and cargo loads are distributed to both tires, the tires max weight value can be doubled to better understand overall weight.  So, at ~700lbs rated, you can have a load of 1400lbs without stressing the tires but you do need to understand that tire pressure should also be considered.  Max weight should also have max pressure measured when the tire is cold.

Weight goes on both tires, but the rear is heavier than the front.  You probably mean that, but wording might say to some that both have same wt on them.

[F6MoRider]

[/quote]

Weight goes on both tires, but the rear is heavier than the front.  You probably mean that, but wording might say to some that both have same wt on them.
[/quote]

That's a given with riders sitting on the top of the back tire and the proximity of the engine to the rear tire.  My point was a simple understanding that a tires max weight rating could simply be doubled to find the approx max load so you can determine about how much weight you can add.   As each tire carries "about" half the weight, a 700lb rating on a tire could be easily viewed as 1400lbs total weight. 

As the Valk is ~800lbs, a 700lb max rated tire would allow another 600 pounds to be added without stressing the tire beyond it's rating or really getting into exact the specifics at the gram level or having to factor weight of gas, weight in motion and bugs on the shield, if equipped.  600lbs is a lot of stuff and two big people.

If you really want a better understanding, take your bike to a local scrap dealer or full service semi-truck  shop, they usually have a drive on scale.  Put the front tire on the scale, then the entire bike, then the rear wheel and get the weight measured.  The front will be lighter than the rear and you'll know exactly what weight is on each tire and can compare that against the rating.  My local scrap dealer charges $5 for the use of the scale but you can get the exact weight if you want.  Otherwise, ...use a guesstimate.

[F6Viking]

I appreciate everyone's input.
I have placed an order for the D404.
Hope to do quite a bit of maintenance in a few weeks.
Oil, filter, service rear end (splines, fluid, etc.), new brakes (F & R), new tire (of course), new stainless braided lines all the way around. May just have to take a few days off work and enjoy some wrench time.
Thanks again for the input and to all the great people out there who make this the best place for all things Valkyrie.

[MarkT]

Of course you can get your wheel loading pretty close with a bathroom scale, a brick and a board.  Just set up the brick, board and scale so the board is a lever positioned so the brick at one end is the fulcrum, the other end on the scale, and position the wheel 1/3 down from the brick on the board.  There you have it - the scale reading, less the weight of the board before the tire is positioned, X 3 is the weight at the wheel.