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JerryH
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« on: April 14, 2013, 02:59:12 PM » |
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What is the correct torque settings for the front and rear rotors. I read the manual and found 31 ft. lbs. However, I snapped one off with that.
Perhaps the bolts are old, been removed before, are stretched???????????????
TIa
Jerry
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Patrick
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Posts: 15433
VRCC 4474
Largo Florida
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« Reply #1 on: April 14, 2013, 03:19:26 PM » |
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I can't say for sure and I'm 1600 miles from the manual, but, it seems like I remember it should be about half of what you used.
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PhredValk
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« Reply #2 on: April 14, 2013, 04:09:52 PM » |
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Clymer Guide says 15 ft-lbs front, 31 ft-lbs rear.
Fred.
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Growing old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
VRCCDS0237
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Daniel Meyer
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Posts: 5493
Author. Adventurer. Electrician.
The State of confusion.
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« Reply #3 on: April 14, 2013, 04:35:09 PM » |
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I'd advise "heavy snug"...unless you have a VERY good quality small torque wrench. Most don't measure correctly under 15 ft/pounds.
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CUAgain, Daniel Meyer  |
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Denny47
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Posts: 307
#34898
Grove, Ok.
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« Reply #4 on: April 14, 2013, 04:54:12 PM » |
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The 97-98 OEM service manual states, 14 ft. lbs. for front and 31# for the rear.
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1997 Green/Cream Tourer w/ Cobra 6/6 exhaust, 2012 Pearl White Goldwing
USAF 66-70, F-105 AWCS
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #5 on: April 15, 2013, 09:33:51 AM » |
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It's unusual I think to snap a bolt when tightening into aluminum.
My feeling is that you would more than likely strip out the threads from the aluminum hole.
To my experience, the bolts snap off when trying to loosen the bolts, they get frozen in the holes pretty solidly from corrosion.
So, in this particular instance, I would say that the bolts probably should be changed out, They most likely are damaged beyond re-use, and besides, Honda says to not re-use them, but to get new bolts.
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #6 on: April 15, 2013, 09:48:18 AM » |
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The book torque values are set for these conditions:
New bolts with pre applied loctite (dry)
New, clean threads.
Once you have old threads that are not spanky clean and new, and wet loctite which will act as a lubricant during the tightening, then things are very different.
I have replaced all my rotors and I did use a torque wrench and I was focused on the book settings. However, I know when something feels tight and when it feels over tight.
Some of the bolts went right to the proper torque and felt "right" and some tightened up only at the end of the travel and by the time I got near say high twenties (rear) I felt it was "right" and I stopped.
BTW...I have only broken bolts off while working on bikes WHILE USING a torque wrench. I think the moral of the story is...Unless you re-create the factory conditions, you cannot always blindly rely on factory torque settings.
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JerryH
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« Reply #7 on: April 15, 2013, 10:09:03 AM » |
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Thanks guys for the torque info and the "hands on" experience.
I'll get back on the wheel repair and get the "bumblebee" on and road ASAP.
Jerry
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