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MarkT Exhaust
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Author Topic: Changing my Shocks?  (Read 957 times)
Airedale
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Central NY


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« on: May 07, 2013, 04:46:15 AM »

I have purchased a set of Progressive 412 11 1/2 shocks to replace the factory shocks for the purpose of lowering my bike. I have the Clymer shop manual and they recommend taking off the exhaust as part of the procedure to change out the shocks. I may be missing something but with the seat off both the top and bottom shock bolts are easy to get to.  I am not seeing where the exhaust will come into play getting the stock shocks off and putting new ones on. Can someone tell me the reason for taking off the exhaust?

Al
« Last Edit: May 07, 2013, 04:47:54 AM by Airedale » Logged

9Ball
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South Jersey


« Reply #1 on: May 07, 2013, 05:00:31 AM »

not necessary to remove the mufflers....I did mine by myself with the bike resting on the sidestand.  It's easier if you have a lift to take the pressure off the bottom bolt on the final drive side (make sue you apply some anti-seize to the bolt shoulder when you reinstall).

Once you get one of the shorter shocks in place the other should go on with minimal coaxing.  I replaced the OEM shocks with same height 440s and could do one side at a time...you'll have to do yours a little differently since you're going to shorter shocks.
« Last Edit: May 07, 2013, 05:03:35 AM by 9Ball » Logged

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old2soon
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Willow Springs mo


« Reply #2 on: May 07, 2013, 05:35:58 AM »

Once on my lift I removed my D/S rear tire with the exhaust system staying together. The manual calls for removing the exhaust system. And the shocks are removed for a tire change. Hope this helps.  cooldude RIDE SAFE.
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hubcapsc
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« Reply #3 on: May 07, 2013, 07:48:36 AM »


Don't need to mess with the exhaust. But... I suggest putting your
bike on the lift, jacking it up just enough that there's no tension or
compression on the shock, and then loosening the shock bolts. The
wheel will still just be barely touching the ground, but won't spin.

-Mike
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BF
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« Reply #4 on: May 07, 2013, 09:24:36 AM »


Don't need to mess with the exhaust. But... I suggest putting your
bike on the lift, jacking it up just enough that there's no tension or
compression on the shock, and then loosening the shock bolts. The
wheel will still just be barely touching the ground, but won't spin.

-Mike

What he said.   cooldude

And I might add.....do one side at a time.   Wink
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Airedale
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« Reply #5 on: May 07, 2013, 04:29:40 PM »

I want to thank you all for your help and  advice, new shocks are installed  and my feet are flat on the ground. cooldude

Al
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #6 on: May 07, 2013, 11:27:44 PM »

Doing one side at a time is usually the best method, but somewhat difficult when going from 13" to 11.5" shocks.   Wink
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Airedale
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« Reply #7 on: May 08, 2013, 03:58:10 AM »

Doing one side at a time is usually the best method, but somewhat difficult when going from 13" to 11.5" shocks.   Wink

I used a floor jack under the rear wheel to raise the rear end up just enough so I could line up the shorter shocks with the mounting holes.

Al
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #8 on: May 08, 2013, 09:50:43 AM »

Doing one side at a time is usually the best method, but somewhat difficult when going from 13" to 11.5" shocks.   Wink

I used a floor jack under the rear wheel to raise the rear end up just enough so I could line up the shorter shocks with the mounting holes.

Al

I use a 2d jack under the wheel for working with the rear end (alone), but doing shocks I just use the big bike jack up and down.
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