|
al v
|
 |
« on: May 13, 2013, 07:19:00 PM » |
|
I just did a desmog a few weeks ago. As such, I replaced the two center vacuum caps and I also replaced the vent line hose. I visually inspected the other three caps, they looked good (I thought).
Rode the bike for the last week or so and I noticed the idle was bouncing 50-100 rpm and I was getting some very strange (and loud) noises between 2500 and 3000 rpm when accelerating.
Tonight, I changed out the other three vacuum caps. Once they were off the bike, if you squeezed them, they were rock hard, brittle, and cracked on the inside.
Bike now runs so much quieter. Idle is rock solid again. Mystery solved.
So, just a heads up, you might have to take them little turds off the bike to actually know if they are bad or not. Apparently, they do make really good whistles when they go bad.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Patrick
Member
Posts: 15433
VRCC 4474
Largo Florida
|
|
« Reply #1 on: May 14, 2013, 09:15:54 AM » |
|
Those little caps are a real problem. It can be hard to find good quality ones. Ones made from good vacuum line with a nice flat head screw in the end still look decent and should last almost forever.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
hubcapsc
Member
Posts: 16788
upstate
South Carolina
|
|
« Reply #2 on: May 14, 2013, 09:23:28 AM » |
|
The bolt-in-some-vacuum-line idea probably can't be improved upon, I didn't
know about it when I got my beater bike a few years ago...
I used the crummy little colored ones that come in an assortment pack at
AutoZone or wherever so I could ride, and ordered some OEM ones.
I put real tight ones from the crummy-pak on, and then slipped the next size
up over them, so I've got two-layer-thick crummy-paks... I still have the
OEM ones in my tool box years later. The double layer crummy-paks are
still working, I recently sprayed wd40 on them after cranking the bike, I'd
guess the RPMs would have changed if they were leaking... plus all the other
things that let you know that your intakes are leaking...
-Mike
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Farther
|
|
« Reply #3 on: May 14, 2013, 10:04:39 AM » |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Thanks,
~Farther
|
|
|
|
IamGCW
|
|
« Reply #4 on: May 14, 2013, 11:10:31 AM » |
|
+1. Just changed out mine for the summer. Old ones were not bad, just like to prevent issues. Gil |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Gil
uıɐƃɐ ʎɐqǝ ɟɟo pɹɐoqʎǝʞ ɐ ʎnq ɹǝʌǝu ןן,ı
|
|
|
|
98valk
|
|
« Reply #5 on: May 14, 2013, 11:25:08 AM » |
|
Hypalon is one of the better materials to use if not the best for outside conditions. http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/15013/10002/-1 |
|
|
|
« Last Edit: May 14, 2013, 11:27:46 AM by CA »
|
Logged
|
1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
|
|
|
|
Hook#3287
|
|
« Reply #6 on: May 14, 2013, 06:28:49 PM » |
|
Ones made from good vacuum line with a nice flat head screw in the end still look decent and should last almost forever. Yup! The ones I made about 7 years ago still look good. Cost about $.07 each. |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Oklahoma_Valk
|
|
« Reply #7 on: May 14, 2013, 08:33:27 PM » |
|
After syncing my carbs, I unscrewed the barbs and put in some short 6mm bolts w/ washers on each one. They sit flush with the inside of the runner. No more vacuum leaks, no more vacuum caps. Period. Save the barbs and install them again when you sync the next time. Call it troublesome....call it more work than it's worth....call it whatever you like....but dont knock it until you've tried it.
Atticrat showed me this tip.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Let those who ride decide.  |
|
|
|
Farther
|
|
« Reply #8 on: May 14, 2013, 08:35:56 PM » |
|
I think that is a good idea, especially if you could find some brass bolt/washers.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Thanks,
~Farther
|
|
|
|
sandy
|
|
« Reply #9 on: May 14, 2013, 09:34:52 PM » |
|
After syncing my carbs, I unscrewed the barbs and put in some short 6mm bolts w/ washers on each one. They sit flush with the inside of the runner. No more vacuum leaks, no more vacuum caps. Period. Save the barbs and install them again when you sync the next time. Call it troublesome....call it more work than it's worth....call it whatever you like....but dont knock it until you've tried it.
Atticrat showed me this tip.
I did this and used brass crush washers. Saved the originals in the battery box. |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Patrick
Member
Posts: 15433
VRCC 4474
Largo Florida
|
|
« Reply #10 on: May 15, 2013, 04:10:09 AM » |
|
I remove the barbs and install cap screws also, been like that for 14 years. I don't mention it cuz most would think that is nutz. Most told me it was nutz when I mentioned it way back then. It takes a while to put them back in for a sync, but, that doesn't need to be done very often.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
98valk
|
|
« Reply #11 on: May 15, 2013, 06:30:01 AM » |
|
I remove the barbs and install cap screws also, been like that for 14 years. I don't mention it cuz most would think that is nutz. Most told me it was nutz when I mentioned it way back then. It takes a while to put them back in for a sync, but, that doesn't need to be done very often.
was a great idea, that's what makes this board great.  could u post the thd and size again. thanks |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
|
|
|
|
