High and Low beam Headlight out on ’98 Tourer.

[BobB]

OK, I have already done a search here and did not find the help I initially needed.
But after the second day, I have resolved the problem.  Just thought I would write a book on how to troubleshoot electrical problems. 

Yesterday,  I had both the high and low beam headlights go out on me at the same time.
I’m fairly good at things electrical and I have the necessary tools to scope things out. 
Readings below were taken with a Fluke Digital Multimeter. 
Voltages were taken with the key on and engine not running.
     
Here are the details of how we went about diagnosing and fixing the problem:

1.   My Cobra Light Bar was still working, it is custom wired with a relay on a separate fused circuit.
        The switch on the bar failed years ago and is not used.
2.   I’ve been running with a H4 12V 100/90W P43T bulb for several years.  This will put additional
        load on switch contacts, specifically 8.33 amps from 5 amps.  More on this at #19 below.
3.   Since both high and low beam went out together, I started looking for something they had in
        common.  Pulled out the Clymer Service Manual and turned to the wiring schematic on page
        478.  Familiarized myself with the components, wire colors and probable wire routing.
4.   Checked the 10 amp headlight fuse (third from the top), it looked good but I verified with the
        meter.
5.   Pulled the headlight and disconnected the Kisan Path Blazer to take it out of the picture. 
        This was installed between the headlamp and its socket.
6.   Checked the resistance between the headlight socket ground (green) and several ground points
        on the bike.  Got readings of 0.0 to 0.1 olms.  Good!   
7.   Carefully inspected the headlamp bulb, filaments looked good.  Could have tested it with a spare
        battery but did not.   
8.   Key on, checked the high and low beam voltages at the headlight socket, blue and white wires,
        nothing there.  Bad!   
9.   Dismantled the right switch housing, and pulled apart the starter switch.  It showed slight signs
        of arcing.  The engine always started properly.  Cleaned up the 4 contacts in the switch base.
        Cleaned up and adjusted the jumper contacts in the push button.  Applied dielectric grease and
        reassembled the switch.  Engine starts but headlights still not working.  Bad!
10.   Checked the output voltage at the starter switch, blue/white wire, 12.2 volts.  Good!
        Learned something here, those little round black nodules on these switches are actually solder
        joints painted black. The paint can be scraped off to probe for voltages etc.
11.   The next thing down the line is a single connector, connecting the blue/white wires in the right
        and left wiring harnesses.  It is in the headlight housing.  It appeared to be loose so I pinched
        the female side down and plugged it back together, tight fit.   Key on, still no voltage at the
        headlight socket.  Bad!
12.   I cut off both sides of the connector and replaced it with a new spade connector. 
        Key on, still no voltage at the headlight socket.  Bad!  Did not need to do this.
13.   Dismantled the left switch housing, removing the high/low beam switch. 
        Key on, checked input voltage, blue/white wire, 12.2 volts.  Good!
14.   Checked the output voltages, white and blue wires , 0.2 volts.  Bad! 
        This switch is the problem.   
15.   It’s late in the evening, can’t see well and this switch does not appear to be serviceable. 
        I decided to sleep on it.
16.   Got up a 4:45 AM to take another look before going to work.  Nothing had changed.
17.   Slow day at work.  Looked up the Switch set, turn signal on line. 
        Holy crap, $95 with shipping.  Refrained from ordering it.
18.   Worked out a get it back on the road solution by jumpering the blue/white wire to the blue
        headlamp socket plug.  This would give me high beams but no low beams. 
        I seldom ride at night and always have the high beams on in day light,
        so that the Path Blazer is flashing.
19.   Got concerned about the current passing through these OEM switches with my high wattage
        headlamp.  So, while still at work, designed a circuit using two relays isolating the headlamp
        from these OEM switches and powering the headlamp from the custom circuit that already
        powers my spot lights and air horn.  Everything should fit in the headlight housing. 
        This will be a project for winter if not sooner.
20.   Got home after work and again looked at the high/low beam switch. 
        Finally, I found how to dismantle it and get to the contacts. 
        They looked bad but after some emery cloth treatment much better. 
        Applied dielectric grease and reassembled the switch. 
21.   A voltage test failed, but careful examination of this switch revealed that the sides must be
        pressed together for it to work right.  This is the case when the switch is assembled into the
        housing.
22.   Again dismantled the switch and slightly stretched the little spring behind the toggle
        contacts increasing the contact pressure.  Again reassembled the switch. 
        Voltage tests and the headlight socket were successful.  Good!                 
23.   Reassembled both right and left switch housings after first insulating exposed
        solder joints with silicone.  Continued to test voltages at the headlight socket
        as things went together.  Good!
24.   Re-installed the headlight and Path Blazer.  All is well that ends well. 
        Lady Val is back on the road.

I wish I had pictures but that’s the last thing I think about when troubleshooting.
Did I set a record for the longest initial post to a new thread? 

[Bone]

Seeing 98 Tourer in the subject line got my attention I have a 98 Black & Chrome.
Thanks for the step by step trouble shooting you performed.
Good job.

[pancho]

Good work Bone,, I'm surprised at step 16,, seems that once you had identified it, the least it could have done is fixed itself.

[pancho]

I meant good work Plunker.

[Bone]

Thanks

[John Schmidt]

Good work, but my approach would have been; #8 before anything else, followed by #13 & 14 in that order. It's good that you have your driving lights operating from a totally separate circuit, a mistake many riders make is running them through the already overloaded headlight circuit via the start switch and/or the hi/lo beam switch. Personally I've found the high wattage unnecessary since I use my driving lights at night or heavy traffic daytime. Between the three lamps, I light up the road very effectively. If you continue to use the high wattage bulb, you should increase the size of the feeder wire....if not already done. And, consider changing the socket on the back of the headlight to a ceramic unit. The following link will remove the high amp load on the headlight circuit, just scroll down the the "Start Switch Safeguard" section and follow directions. Very easy and no more burnt contacts. 

http://www.rattlebars.com/mtz/starter.html

[BobB]

John, thanks for that.  I remember seeing that several years back and did not consider it at that time.  Surprising how time changes things.  The relay circuit at that link protects the starter switch but does nothing for the high/low beam switch.  BTW, you can't do #8 before #5.  

The circuit I designed involves a 4P relay triggered by the starter switch (blue/white) in line with a 5P relay triggered by one side of the high/low beam switch (white).  That reduces the current through these switches to about 0.15 amps.  The headlamp will be powered by the same source as my spot lamps.  It has wiring that will handle at least 30 amps and is currently fused at 15 amps.  It spawns from a custom circuit board with fuse block and ground bus that is under the right side cover.  I will probably replace the Honda 10 amp headlight fuse with a 2 amp since the maximum load on the OEM circuit will be about 6% of what Honda intended.

I have been looking for smaller relays than the one cubic inch ones we usually find.  The relays I find under the hood in my Honda Civic are half that size.
 

[BobB]

Please refer to the new thread titled "Headlight Switch Burnouts Eliminated" referring to the starter switch and the high/low beam switch on a Valkyrie Standard or Tourer.

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,55747.new.html#new

[Robert]

Good job but you can cut it down to one relay and its really easy. Find one that has a 87 and 87a connectors and the diagram should read that when power off one of the contacts has power when you flick the highs the relay is energized and you have high beams. Just a suggestion and I can get a relay number but MarkT probably already has it.