bag rail hardware

[westsidevalk]

I just bought a used set of OEM bagrails, came with 4 bolts



Which ones do I have, where do they go?

I see that I can still order most of these bolts through the part number.

Should I just get all the ones listed, or will I be reusing any of the OEM bolts already on the bike?

Thanks


Thanks!

[Jess from VA]

I cannot remember exactly where (beleive #s 5 and 6 in the parts list), but while the rails can be bolted up with existing OE hardware, they will not tap as deep (or be as strong) as they should with the bag rail mount points added to the length/depth.

I went thru the same drill when I got mine with almost no hardware.  I took the parts list to a good hardware store and bought stainless with some extra stainless washers.  Not as nice looking as the OE chrome flange bolts, but no one but you will ever know the difference (and much cheaper than a honda order).

Note that the #4 Collar spacers are not identified by length in the parts list.... I just guessed and got two diff lengths, one of which was close enough.

The brackets that are reused (at page 2) go on easier if you put them on backwards from the way indicated in the instructions.

On install, only screw things in loosey-goosey until it is all bolted up.  Then go around and tighten all.

From Shoptalk:
http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/Manuals/BagRails1.pdf
http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/Manuals/BagRails2.pdf

[westsidevalk]

Jess,

Thanks a lot, that is very very helpful!

Is it correct that these are all coarse threaded bolts, so I dont have to worry about the pitch?
I can just get any stainless steel bolt with same head type and same diameter and threaded length?
(just out of curiosity what is the advantage to a hex head in these applications, or is it just economical, or something like that)

About how many mm would you guess that coller with the unspecified length might be?

Why did you buy the extra washers? How do they help?


maybe its me, probably im a little on the slow side when it comes to mechanical aptitude, but why do they say in parenthese (save) in the diagram? Do we reuse them on the same appliction somewhere or is a just a friendly reminder to keep them for if you ever take the rails off?

I will try to put the brackets on backward, like you say, Jess.

Thanks,

David

[Jess from VA]

David, I am no more than a shade tree tech.

I believe these bolts are simply standard coarse threads, whatever that is.  Take your old ones to the hardware and get ones that match.  A flange bolt is a hex head with an integral (built in) washer (like the ones you will remove).  The stainless replacements have no flange, so I just added a stainless washer wherever a flange bolt had been, to approximate the same look and function (you have to work a little to get them nicely centered when tightening).  (Mine are mixed with some of each)

I do not know why hex heads are used, except it matches a good deal of other fasteners on the bike, and can be removed with common tools/wrenches sockets.  And all flange bolts are hex heads. It has been some six years since I did my rails, I believe the collar spacers were around 1/2 to 5/8 inch long. As I recall, my first guess of a quarter inch was too short.

The instructions to save mean they get reused on the rail install.

I just tumbled to the backwards install on the rear brackets.  I was having a tricky time getting them on and turned them around, and it was much easier going.  Later read many do the same thing.

Remember, only just get each bolt started and quit till it is all on, then tighten up all.  Otherwise, stuff will often not fit together.

One other thing.... the heat shields are often corroded and it is a good time to clean them up.  I like to be able to squeeze a rag edge between the pipes and heat shield to buff the pipe tops clean, and the shield was a bit too low, so I bent mine up a "tad", then had to push the bags down on them to get them mounted.

Also, depending on what shocks you have, it is a good time to adjust them (if necessary) while all the other crap is off the bike.  It may be the stock shocks are no problem, the Progressives are a problem with all the crap mounted.

[westsidevalk]

Jess,

I understand, use washers to duplicate the way a flange bolt has a built in washer to distribute the load.

I just reinstalled my Cobra pipes, so all is well there.

Regarding the Shocks, I have 440's and like you said they were tough to turn. For a few days in a row I gave the shocks a good shot of penetrating oil, and let it soak in. I then took a rubber strap wrench  and they turned with ease after a small amount of resistance. Now they turn easily. I weigh 235 and my wife 170, and with gear we are easily over 420lbs and we have the 440HD set to the lowest setting (one ring showing) and its perfect. A great guy I met from the forum put in the progressive front shocks and she handles great.

I am really grateful for this orum, through it I met a local valk lover with three Valks and he did a carb Sync and the front end, and a few other things and now the bike runs better than ever.

My butt Dyno tells me Ive lost some get up and go since I put the Cobras on (baffles in).
I would like to put the 38's in.
My question is , if I am patient and persistent, even with my limited mechanical aptitude, is this re jetting difficult?  

I have a small chip in my fender paint to the metal. Do you think the touch up pen would work or better off with paint?






Okay, next stupid question:

Why do some bolts ,like for the Cobra pipes, use lock washers and others dont?

Thanks,

David

[Jess from VA]

I am ignorant on carburetors.......... I punt.  (mine are all stock, as are my pipes except one has the pigs cut off, and I keep them clean.... that is all I need to know) LOL   Every carburetor I ever worked on I ended up with extra parts, springs flying away, and the machine wouldn't run when I was done.... I never touch them any more.  I tried rebuilding a Rochester quadrajet three times.... then killed it with a framing hammer and bought a new Edlebrock, which worked much better.

I have 440s on both my bikes, and I am thinking you need a couple more turns down on preload (than one) for both you and the wife together, even on HDs..... but if you are not bottoming out. 

I'm no paint expert either... I have some rubs I use a black magic marker on..... lasts a while then I do it again. If you have a chip to fill, I would think some testors paint carefully dropped in with a fine small brush would work.  Get all the wax off first.

I understand lock washers are used where vibration or pounding/torquing may be a problem.