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sandy
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« Reply #1 on: July 03, 2009, 02:56:45 PM » |
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If you can remove the drive unit at home and wait a couple of weeks: BigBF can do it for you. He's in Phx, AZ. Ship him the unit and he'll ship it back. He did one for a friend 2-3 yrs ago for a bit over 1/3rd of your estimate. You'll have to do the R&R of the wheel and drive unit. Look in shop talk for BigBF's website.
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DeathWishBikerDude
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« Reply #2 on: July 03, 2009, 03:05:02 PM » |
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« Last Edit: July 03, 2009, 03:10:01 PM by DeathWishBikerDude »
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Valker
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Posts: 2998
Wahoo!!!!
Texas Panhandle
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« Reply #4 on: July 03, 2009, 04:24:31 PM » |
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I replaced mine from eBay for less than $300 including the flange that attaches to the wheel part. There are a LOT of Valk folks in the DFW area that can and would help with this. I see you are not in DFW now. I'd bet that there are folks who'd help wherever you are.
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I ride a motorcycle because nothing transports me as quickly from where I am to who I am.
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PatrickDoss
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« Reply #5 on: July 03, 2009, 08:05:06 PM » |
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+1 on DFW Honda being worthless  . My Valk was serviced by them with the previous owner. When going through it to re-do a job the paper work said they just did, I found parts to be missing.
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fudgie
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Posts: 10613
Better to be judged by 12, then carried by 6.
Huntington Indiana
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« Reply #6 on: July 03, 2009, 08:13:58 PM » |
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Just the splines or the whole final drive. Do it yourself like they have suggested with the links. Save alot.
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 Now you're in the world of the wolves... And we welcome all you sheep... VRCC-#7196 VRCCDS-#0175 DTR PGR
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BigMac (SoCal)
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« Reply #8 on: July 03, 2009, 09:44:20 PM » |
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Yes that will work. All you need is the diff though. I just replaced one for a friend that he bought thru Pinwall cycle. I would say that's the cheapest way to go. Plan on spending around $300.00 for a good one and try to get one with the lowest miles.
Dave
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BigMac (SoCal)
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« Reply #9 on: July 03, 2009, 09:48:48 PM » |
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He had them ship it prioity so he got it in a few days.
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Bladedog
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« Reply #10 on: July 03, 2009, 10:06:09 PM » |
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Thanks BigMac. Looks like this is gonna knock me out of the Gilroy ride. I swear it's always something. Sooner or later I'm gonna buy you a beer or three.
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 It's easier to get forgiveness than permission. 
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Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008
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« Reply #12 on: July 04, 2009, 06:01:02 AM » |
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I picked up a spare off ebay not to long ago. 16k miles on it and it looked like new. Seems I paid about 180 for it with shipping. Sometimes they go for a lot more , I've been outbid on several up to 275. It just seems to depend on timing and demand. My bike has 106k on it so I thought it would be good to have a spare handy.
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DeathWishBikerDude
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« Reply #13 on: July 04, 2009, 06:16:09 AM » |
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Usually auctions ending on friday or saturday night,near the first of the month,gets you the best pricing. Everyone sending in their mortgage/rent payment or spending their beer money. 
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« Last Edit: July 04, 2009, 06:29:13 AM by DeathWishBikerDude »
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Bladedog
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« Reply #14 on: July 06, 2009, 12:58:44 PM » |
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Ok, looks like i have two options:
1. Get the "new" parts from Honda Direct Line (hdlparts.com, assuming they are in stock) and rebuild.
2. Find something used online, and hope the splines are in better shape than what I already have. A bit cheaper, but...
Now, my questions:
With option 1, besides the Flange Set (PN 42630-MT8-305 $143.48) and the Final Gear Set (PN 41310-MZ0-000 $227.23) what other parts will I need? Shims? Spacers? I know I keep hearing about the "three O-rings".
With option 2, will any final drive assembly from any year or model work, or do I need to stick with 1997 standard/tourer?
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« Last Edit: July 06, 2009, 01:17:48 PM by Bladedog »
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 It's easier to get forgiveness than permission. 
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sandy
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« Reply #15 on: July 06, 2009, 05:46:04 PM » |
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Any final drives will work. (Not the GL1500 Wing) The only difference is the later model yrs (2000 or 2001) are polished and have a better visible finish.
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