Added Driving Lights: ValkPilot

[Red Diamond]

I added driving lights to the 03 and powered the relay for the lights from the low beam side of the headlight. I installed the switch so that I could turn off the driving lights if necessary. My question is; does anyone think that this wiring method will cause a problem with the starter circuit mentioned in Brew1's thread? The reason I ask, is that I have the driving lights wired the same way on the Tourer with the exception of the relay. My switch failed in SC last year and Valkpilot pointed me in the right direction. If my wiring is good on the 03, I'll add a relay on the Tourer. My thinking was that the headlight was on a relay already, am I correct?

[Valkpilot]

I added driving lights to the 03 and powered the relay for the lights from the low beam side of the headlight. I installed the switch so that I could turn off the driving lights if necessary. My question is; does anyone think that this wiring method will cause a problem with the starter circuit mentioned in Brew1's thread? The reason I ask, is that I have the driving lights wired the same way on the Tourer with the exception of the relay. My switch failed in SC last year and Valkpilot pointed me in the right direction. If my wiring is good on the 03, I'll add a relay on the Tourer. My thinking was that the headlight was on a relay already, am I correct?

Eli, that works fine.

I like to be able to use the driving lights with either low or high beams, so I trigger a relay for both the headlight and driving lights using the blue/white wire from the starter switch.  There's a bullet connector in the headlight bucket where it can be accessed without cutting wires.

The side of the circuit that comes from the starter switch is used on one of the trigger terminals.  The other trigger terminal is tied to ground.  I run a 16 AWG, fused wire from the battery to the 12v in terminal of the relay.  The side of the blue/white circuit that goes to the headlight is plugged to the 12v output side of the relay.

This takes most of the load off the starter switch and also maintains the function that turns off the headlight during cranking.

If you make a pigtail coming off the 12v output on the relay, you can power both the headlight and driving lights with one relay, and the driving lights will go out when the headlight goes out when the starter switch is pressed.

I install the driving light switch in the ground wire for the lights.

[Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008]

Eli that is the way mine are wired on my bike. Never had a problem with mine. the low beam wire just triggers the relay so no extra load on switch. Plus side when my headlights lost their ground I was still able to get home on  the driving lights. The plug under fairing was dirty. I cleaned it and also added an extra ground wire just in case. This also fixed my modular by the way. See you soon.

[Red Diamond]

Thanks VP and Mr B for the info. I'll redo the wiring to match your instructions VP, I like the idea of putting the load on one relay. I will also need to correct the wiring on the I/S, it has no relay and is wired directly from the battery, the lights do not go out when the starter is engaged. Spells trouble, thanks again.

[RainMaker]

Thanks VP and Mr B for the info. I'll redo the wiring to match your instructions VP, I like the idea of putting the load on one relay. I will also need to correct the wiring on the I/S, it has no relay and is wired directly from the battery, the lights do not go out when the starter is engaged. Spells trouble, thanks again.

Eli - the Interstate switch is different.  I don't know how or why, but I remember hearing that it is.  Let VP or Mr. B reply before you go into that.

Mark

[Red Diamond]

Thanks Mark, I'll do that.

[Valkpilot]

Thanks VP and Mr B for the info. I'll redo the wiring to match your instructions VP, I like the idea of putting the load on one relay. I will also need to correct the wiring on the I/S, it has no relay and is wired directly from the battery, the lights do not go out when the starter is engaged. Spells trouble, thanks again.

Eli - the Interstate switch is different.  I don't know how or why, but I remember hearing that it is.  Let VP or Mr. B reply before you go into that.

Mark

The Interstate headlights are already wired through two relays, one for the low beam, one for the high.  The relays are triggered by the Hi/Low switch position.

The Blue/White wire can still be tapped to trigger a driving light relay and it will maintain the "off while cranking" function.  But, on the IS, there is no convenient bullet connector in the Blue/White line -- it goes through a multi-pin connector, so some wire splicing would be required.

The method I use is Rattlebar's "Upgraded Cobra Light Bar Wiring" shown on this page: http://www.rattlebars.com/valkfaq/circuits.html

[Valkpilot]

Here are some schematics to use that are pehaps a little more expansive than the Rattlebar's diagrams.  Except for the Interstate version below, you do not have to cut any factory wires to do these modifications and you don't have to use vampire taps.

I hate cutting factory wires and vampire taps are evil.

The first is for either a Standard or Tourer and uses two relays.  One relay is for protecting the start switch from the headlight current, the other is to protect the start switch from the driving light current.  Both are triggered by the Blue/White wire that runs from the start switch to the Hi/Lo switch.  Connecting in this way retains the function of disconnecting the lights while starting the bike.

http://www.barnettdh.com/Valkfiles/HLDLdualrelayST.pdf

The second is also for the Standard or Tourer and accompishes the same thing, but uses a single relay.  It has the drawback of both your light circuits being powered from the same source, so in case of a problem on the downstream side of the relay, it gets real dark, real quick.

http://www.barnettdh.com/Valkfiles/HLDLsinglerelayST.pdf

I've got one bike set up each way, but will be changing the single relay setup to the dual relay in the near future.

For the Interstate, there are two differences in applying relays to driving light circuits.  One, (an advantage) is that the healights are already on relays, so the start switch had protection from the factory.  No additional assembly required.  Two, there's no bullet connector in the Blue/White wire between the starter switch and the Hi/Lo switch, so you have to install one by finding that wire in the left inner fairing, cutting it (shudder), and installing a male and female bullet connector.

http://www.barnettdh.com/Valkfiles/DLrelayIS.pdf

You'll see that where possible, if I want an on/off switch, I install it in the negative leg of the relay trigger ground.  This will save your on/off switch the same way the relay protects your start switch, by keeping a lot of current from flowing through the switch itself.

I also connect the headlight bucket to frame ground or battery negative using a separate wire, then use the headlight bucket mount bolts as convenient ground points for the relays.

Eli and brew1brew, I hope these help.

[Red Diamond]

What you posted in your last reply Dave is what I'm looking for. It will probably be a couple weeks before I can get back to the lighting, my wife is in Shreveport celebrating her 48 years with me. When we get back home Friday there will be more celebrating and spending she'll want to do, so as you can see, I'll be behind with anything that I want to do. Certainly appreciate your input though.

[blotar]

Thanks Guys,
  electricity not always been  my strongest card... I cant wait to improve my light system.
Blotar

[Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008]

Bruce give me a shout and I'll wire you up. Been thinking about ya'll lately just didn't want to bother you.

[Valkpilot]

For anyone who might need it, here is a diagram for hooking up aftermarket horns using a relay.

Aftermarket horns, such as Stebel, Big Boy, or car horns, pull a lot more juice than the anemic OEM horn.  Often, just connecting them to the OEM horn wires won't even operate them, besides adding a lot of extra load through the horn switch (button.)  A relay triggered by the OEM horn wires is the way to go.

http://www.barnettdh.com/Valkfiles/ValkHornRelay.pdf

[hubcapsc]

You don't want to add any draw to the headlight, but triggering
a relay doesn't really count. I also have had my lightbar hooked
up that way for years. I have moto-lights to be seen, and my
light-bar is to help me see... it comes on when I hit high-beam.

I often switch to high-beam with I see some car at an intersection
that might pull out on me. I've seen 'em almost pull out, and then
stop when the change catches their attention...

-Mike

[Gental Gaint]

Gee..... we need to have a "wiring" work party @ my digs (Richmond/359/Houston area) to install all the electrical stuff y'all are talking about here... I have EVERYTHING to wire it up to my bike... but, I'm kinda gun shy on wiring up stuff... I have a Eastern Beaver 3 circuit Headlight kit, Driving light and 'Spot' lights to install... better horn and a stoplight thingy... I can smoke a BUTT the night before and feed ya.. What do y'all think...????

[SideCar]

Clearly, this has already been answered for your current project.

Eli, when you get ready to step up to the aircraft landing lights like I've got, let me know. I have the super-secret, turbine generated relay circuit to protect the air conditioning circuit for the sidecar.

[Gental Gaint]

Gee guys... I can DO a pork butt....

                                           

[Rocketman]

I was thinking just yesterday that it's past time for a Houston area wrench party.  We can do some serious damage... um, I mean progress, on your electricals.
Seriously, let's talk and plan something up.  I'm sure more folks have work to do.

Mark

[Rocketman]

The Interstate headlights are already wired through two relays, one for the low beam, one for the high.  The relays are triggered by the Hi/Low switch position.

The Blue/White wire can still be tapped to trigger a driving light relay and it will maintain the "off while cranking" function.  But, on the IS, there is no convenient bullet connector in the Blue/White line -- it goes through a multi-pin connector, so some wire splicing would be required.

The method I use is Rattlebar's "Upgraded Cobra Light Bar Wiring" shown on this page: http://www.rattlebars.com/valkfaq/circuits.html

I have too much else on my mind to analyze the wiring diagrams at the link, so if this is repetitive, I apologize, but when I put extra lights on my I/S, I powered a relay off the aux power plug under the right side cover.  It's on with the key, and shuts off while cranking just like the headlights.
Actually, that relay powers a new fuse block I put in (with the actual power coming from a light straight off the battery), and I've powered a few things off of that, including a beefed up horn, a cig lighter plug (for music player charging, or running a tire pump when needed), and the extra lights.

Mark

[Red Diamond]

Sounds good, my Interstate has been on the jack for four months now, waiting for a fork seal repair.

[Gental Gaint]

I was thinking just yesterday that it's past time for a Houston area wrench party.  We can do some serious damage... um, I mean progress, on your electricals.
Seriously, let's talk and plan something up.  I'm sure more folks have work to do.

Mark

Hey Mark... my phone number is in my SIG line.... I'm open any time (well, not on the 19th or this SAT)... If I don't have time to "smoke" something.... lunch will still be on ME............. 

[Gental Gaint]

Hey Mark... I had a set back in life... BUT... let's do some wiring when you get a chance......

                                   



I'm going to the to make the dinner tomorrow...

[Rocketman]

That doesn't look like fun. Glad you're doing better. We you tonight.

[Gental Gaint]

FYI..... I put about 15 miles on my Valk today... First time to ride it in 7 years.... Then I worked on it installing the rubber "bumpers" for the exhaust cover and stripped a thread on the left side..... Will drill it over sized and tap it in the AM.....