Removing Rear Brake Caliper without Removing Wheel

[Thrud]

Fellow Riders,

I was in the process of changing the rear brake pads on my 2000 Interstate but was stopped because I couldn't push the pistons back far enough to provide clearance for the new pads.  Either the pistons are over-extended or they have seized in place.  The rear brakes were working fine but it took a little extra effort and pedal travel to apply pressure to the brakes.

The shop manual states that the rear wheel must be removed first in order to remove the brake caliper.  I don't want to go that route.  I've taken just about everything off of the caliper except the Pin Bolt that holds the caliper to the brake bracket (where I'm pointing).  The Pin Bolt is the only hardware keeping the caliper from being pulled up and clearing the brake disc.



Can I just remove the Pin Bolt from the bracket and allow the caliper to be lifted off of the disc?

Here's a photo of the pistons taken from a side view.  You can see they are extended quite a bit from the caliper body.  Again, the brakes were working fine up to this point.



What is a safe way to push them back into the caliper so as to give me clearance to install the new pads?

Thanks,
Steve

[pancho]

Put one of the old pads on and gently squeeze it with a clamp,,,   To get the clearance to do this, I think you may need to at least partially pull the axle to free the caliper mounting bracket....  These are your brakes,,, your life depends on them.

[saddlesore]

You have to pull the axle out far enough the get the caliper out.  I use an eight inch C- clamp . The clamp ends are about the right size.  Squeeze the pistons in as needed.  Pump the brake after you have it assembled. 

[Thrud]

I was thinking that if I removed Part Reference# 13 in the exploded parts diagram below I could then just lift the caliper off of the disc, no?

http://www.hdlparts.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=2508589&category=Motorcycles&make=Honda&year=2000&fveh=132118

Steve

[saddlesore]

The bolt that you are talking about is partialy hidden by the muffler.  You could try just the front bolt but I think it would take both the axel.   

If you can't get it together how can you have any bolts through?                   
   

[Patrick]

Basically what Pancho said. Stick the pad back in and pry the pistons back into the bores slowly and easily. Replace the pads and go, but, only after you reinstall the brake line and bleed the system.

[Michvalk]

If you just cram those pistons back in there, your brakes may not work worth a crap. You need to take the pistons out and clean them up. Wouldn't hurt to rebuild while your in there. Why are you not taking it apart like you should? Do you not have a lift? Can't cut corners when it comes to stopping, your life could depend on those brakes.

[saddlesore]

As long as you have the brake line off, you could use air pressure to pop the pistons out.  That way you know if they are frozen.  Pad the caliper in case they shoot out.

I agree that you should pull the unit apart.  I did'nt think I had a problem till I took mine apart and found the pistons were stuck.

[salty1]

If you just cram those pistons back in there, your brakes may not work worth a crap. You need to take the pistons out and clean them up. Wouldn't hurt to rebuild while your in there. Why are you not taking it apart like you should? Do you not have a lift? Can't cut corners when it comes to stopping, your life could depend on those brakes.

+1 pull the axel partially, remove the spacer and pull the caliper assembly, clean those cylinders well before pushing them in. Otherwise you may be doing this whole process again rebuilding those cylinders.

[old2soon]

Pull it down completely and clean out the bores and pistons and replace the O-rings with new ones. The brake pedal took extra effort to actuate the brakes for a REASON. AND that REASON needs to be addressed-in this case clean pistons and bores and new O-rings. Anything LESS is folly. RIDE SAFE.

[Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008]

You can remove that pin bolt with the caliper. Pull the rubber boot back and an open end wrench will unscrew the bolt from the bracket. Then you can raise the whole thing up off the rotor without removing the wheel or any of the axle parts. I've done mine several times. Clean the piston off with a brush and some de-greaser lube them and use a clamp and the old pads to push pistons back into caliper put new pads in and re-assemble.

[Raverez]

First time I replaced my pads I had the same problem. Used a box wrench to unscrew the pin bolt.

[Rio Wil]

The rear brakes were working fine but it took a little extra effort and pedal travel to apply pressure to the brakes.

The pivot pin on the brake pedal  is all rusted up.....clean and lube and will do wonders for its usefulness...

[Thrud]

Thanks for confirming my assumption about removing the Pin Bolt.  The exploded parts diagram shows this to be the only barrier to removing the caliper without removing the rear wheel.

I'll take your advice and remove and service the pistons and seals.  I ordered two sets of seals from Honda Direct Line.

Thanks,
Steve

[gordonv]

When you tried to push the pistons back in, was the resevour low or full? If there is nowhere for the oil to go, then it won't.

I always use my level of oil as a gauge of how warn my pads are. If it requires more, then my pads are about due to be replaced. When you push them back in, it will be full again.

[Thrud]

The rear brake reservoir was at about mid-point.  You can see in the photo above that the pistons are well extended.

I was able to remove the brake caliper easily by removing the Pin Bolt (12mm Open wrench).  Now, I can't get the pistons out of the caliper body.  I can push them in with a piece of wood but I can't get them out.  I doubt compressed air would do the trick.  So, I've ordered two sets of seals and two pistons.  With the parts coming, I can just use a pair of pliers to gently twist the pistons out of the body.  If I scratch them so what!

Steve

[salty1]

To remove the cylinders, I gently pump the brake lever and the hydraulic force pushes them right out.

[Thrud]

I finally got the pistons out by using blasts of compressed air delivered through the hole for the brake line.  The very end of each piston is corroded.  I figure this is why they seized in the caliper body.  Glad I got new pistons and seals on order.  Strange that this should happen at only 23K miles.

Steve

[salty1]

I would say after 13 years, it's possible. Probably never been serviced.?  ???

[Dorkman]

For routine cleaning at a pad change, use a shoe string soaked with brake cleaner to "polish" the pistons.  For a truely gunked up piston, disassembly as mentioned.

[Scotty P]

Confirmed..........remove the left bag on the I/S, the caliper bolt and pin bolt.  Off came the caliper for rebuild.