Removing rear wheel (jammed!)

[kyllini]

Not sure why I'm having a heck of a time trying to get the rear wheel off but followed instructions (except removal of exhaust - instead loosened the exhaust side bolts and pulled out to side).
Removed the long axle bolt and brake caliper then tried to move wheel to left. Keeps hitting swing arm and will not pull out enough to dislodge from gear case.
Afraid I'm going to damage it if i try to force it, but don't understand why I don't have enough clearance.
Does the swing arm actually spread open to provide more clearance because the mufflers aren't obstructing it (there's clearance on both sides).
That video of the rear wheel removal sure did make it look simple!
Did anyone else have trouble with this - and how did you fix it?
Any input / suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

[Toledo Mark]

There is a spacer on the rotor side that should fall out when you remove the axle.  Also I know it helped me to let the air out of the tire. 

Mine has been stuck in the past and I would rotate the wheel and hit it with a rubber mallet and eventually it comes loose.

[salty1]

I assume you removed the brake caliper? No need to remove the exhaust. Have you removed the shocks? As long as you can raise the bike high enough for the wheel to clear, it should come out. Got any photos?

[BonS]

Are you familiar wit the rear wheel driven flange that both inserts into the wheel and the pumpkin? If it stays in the pumpkin then there isn't enough room to remove the wheel. The wheel and driven flange must be pushed back onto the pumpkin. After doing this then take a large screwdriver and find the slot on the bottom of the pumpkin. Push the screwdriver up into this slot and use it as a lever to pry the driven flange away from the pumpkin and making it stay in the wheel. Because this happens too easily I always use the screwdriver method from the get-go to avoid the trap that you're in right now.  

[kyllini]

The tire has minimal air in it.
The spacer on left was removed.
The long bolts (?) on final driven flange is preventing the wheel from coming out.
Can spin the wheel but can't pull it out.
Did this driven flange come out of it's normal location within the gear case and is sticking too far out?

[BonS]

The long "bolts" are pins that slide into the wheel dampers on the wheel. You need to get them back into their holes on the wheel first. Then push the entire assembly back onto the pumpkin. Then pry with the screwdriver to make this flange come off with the wheel. There is not enough room for the wheel to come out with this flange stuck in the pumpkin.

[kyllini]

Ok - understood now.
Push the pin assembly back in to wheel then whole assembly back into gear case then pry entire flange out of gear case.
Yup - that sounds like it should work - but too tired & hot to give it another shot tonight.
Will try again tomorrow and update.

Thank you!

[BradValk48237]

Another thing you can do is unbolt the pumpkin 4 bolts and the pumpkin and wheel will come right out as one... but FYI its nice to have an extra set of hands to help catch it.. I used my jack to raise the bike off the wheel and pumpkin.


On my last removal the Flange stayed in the pumpkin and the pins came out of the wheel... no way I could get them back into the wheel.... unbolted the pumpkin, raised the jack and it all slid right out....

Brad

[Skipper]

First time i removed my rear tire i did what Bons is telling you not to do. Finally surrendered and pulled the pumpkin 

[kyllini]

Was able to get the pins back into the wheel and wheel back into pumpkin. Now i have to try to pry the wheel off with the flange in it.
Will update all when i do this - Thank you!

[BobB]

+1 for Bons solution.  It funny what one can find here.  I had exactly the same issue, for a short time, while removing my rear wheel this morning.  It's not easy mussleing that wheel around trying to get those five pins back into their holes.  I had to use something to pry the flange out of the spline while moving the wheel to the left.  

Don't forget to loosen the four nuts on the front of the pumpkin before re-installing the wheel, and re-tighten them last.  It will insure that the spline between the pumpkin and wheel flange is aligned
and eliminate wear.  Many instructions do not cover that.  

[Ricky-D]

If you put the axle back in, after removing the caliper bracket and the spacer, you will find it much easier to slide the wheel and flange away from the pumpkin.

When the axle is not there, the weight of the wheel tends to jam the flange and spline making it difficult to get the assembly loose from the pumpkin.

***

[9Ball]

If you put the axle back in, after removing the caliper bracket and the spacer, you will find it much easier to slide the wheel and flange away from the pumpkin.

When the axle is not there, the weight of the wheel tends to jam the flange and spline making it difficult to get the assembly loose from the pumpkin.

***

that's a great tip to share...that's what I started doing after my first tire change and it definitely makes the job easier.

[Daniel Meyer]

Was able to get the pins back into the wheel and wheel back into pumpkin. Now i have to try to pry the wheel off with the flange in it.
Will update all when i do this - Thank you!

There is a handy slot in the bottom of the plastic ring on the pumpkin just for this.

[kyllini]

Putting the axle partially back in sounds like a real good idea. Makes sense that it would help align the path of dis-assembly.
Also, just received an email saying my "Taxi" tire was delivered.
Just waiting for my new air valve stems and then it's "break the bead" time!
Guess i know what I'm doing over the holiday (and wife won't be too happy!)
Will follow up with an update.
Thanks to all who commented!

[gordonv]

Next time, do a youtube search, for Dag's video on the rear tire change. Helps seeing it done.

Yes, the flange comes out while it is still in the rim.

[kyllini]

I believe I saw it, and the video was helpful but it didn't really point out any pitfalls to look out for (especially this one).
In any case, I got this jammed so I'll just blame myself for not paying proper attention.
I did receive the "taxi" tire and the JW chrome air valve stems, so looks like I'll be (attempting)  to replace the tire tomorrow.
Question : should I be lubricating something before I reinstall the wheel and if so, what do I use?

Thanks in advance.

[Hook#3287]

Question : should I be lubricating something before I reinstall the wheel and if so, what do I use?

Have you got the wheel off yet?  I can't see any mention of that.

Anyways, when you do, you should remove the pumpkin and drive shaft.  The shaft should be checked and re-lubed on both ends.  How and what you use to lube it, is up for debate on this board.  Also the flange needs attention/lube.

I just follow the shop manual and haven't had any problems to date.

If you don't have a shop manual, you should get one.  Or go to;

http://www.valkyrienorway.com/download.html

Good luck.

[9Ball]

I believe I saw it, and the video was helpful but it didn't really point out any pitfalls to look out for (especially this one).
In any case, I got this jammed so I'll just blame myself for not paying proper attention.
I did receive the "taxi" tire and the JW chrome air valve stems, so looks like I'll be (attempting)  to replace the tire tomorrow.
Question : should I be lubricating something before I reinstall the wheel and if so, what do I use?

Thanks in advance.

hopefully you also bought the 3 O-rings needed for the job, along with moly paste, moly grease, and final drive oil (good time to do this maintenance).  These are specified in the Honda Shop manual along with examples of products that meet the lubrication specs.

[Oklahoma_Valk]

If you put the axle back in, after removing the caliper bracket and the spacer, you will find it much easier to slide the wheel and flange away from the pumpkin.

When the axle is not there, the weight of the wheel tends to jam the flange and spline making it difficult to get the assembly loose from the pumpkin.

***

+1!

I used this trick just today! Also, a good mc lift and lift adapter are a must.

Dont be afraid to use your mc lift once you pull the shocks off. Exhaust should never have to come off.

[dan7uk]

Are you familiar wit the rear wheel driven flange that both inserts into the wheel and the pumpkin? If it stays in the pumpkin then there isn't enough room to remove the wheel. The wheel and driven flange must be pushed back onto the pumpkin. After doing this then take a large screwdriver and find the slot on the bottom of the pumpkin. Push the screwdriver up into this slot and use it as a lever to pry the driven flange away from the pumpkin and making it stay in the wheel. Because this happens too easily I always use the screwdriver method from the get-go to avoid the trap that you're in right now.  

+1

[Tailgate Tommy]

Hello kyllini. I was curious as to the origin of your handle? Mine is tkylli. Pretty similar.

Also, thanks to everyone who posted tips on the wheel issues. I just lubed my splines for the first time on my 2000 IS and it went well thanks to the info above.
tkylli

[kyllini]

Well, I got the wheel off  - the trick with leaving axle partially in and prying the flange with a screwdriver from below worked like a charm.
Unfortunately i wasn't prepared to do all this maintenance and don't have any of the things I would need.
So, still need to figure out how to get the taxi tire on the rim. then find the Moly (or similar paste).
Not sure I want to do the full maintenance now since I wasn't prepared and the bike only has 6500 miles on it. Probably should, but really like to get some riding in - and bike's been one project after another since i got it.
Maybe just paste it - check the oil and wait til winter for a project?
Real tempting at this point.

[Bone]

Lot of the guys do the service every 10k miles. Inspect, grease or paste what you can and go ride. Make a list of what you'll need for your 10k service. Enjoy summer is here

[salty1]

Even if you don't service your rear wheel and propellor shaft splines, you could change the hypoid lube in the pumpkin. It's quite easy. 

[KSDragonRider]

I never pull just a rear tire anymore.  I always pull the rearend out attached to the tire.  I have a thick folded beach towel sitting there beside me on the floor, I pull the wheel out.  Put the wheel rotor down on the towel, then pull the rear end off and take to the bench for inspection and fresh grease.

Believe me, it is easier to pull all that apart away from the bike...

[kyllini]

Hindsight is indeed 20 20 and I was ill prepared to do this.
Next time around (hopefully not due flat tire) I think I will pull the entire pumpkin off and do a complete service.
At a current total of 6500 miles on the bike, the splines look good (I haven't checked the hypoid oil yet).
If all's good - then (this time around) I'm probably just going to do the moly paste, oil and then go riding.

[9Ball]

Good job to inspect the splines.

Just a friendly reminder...don't ignore replacing those 3 O-rings.  This is not a nice to do thing...based on my experience it's a requirement especially if you don't get in there every 10k miles or so.

[Daniel Meyer]

Hindsight is indeed 20 20 and I was ill prepared to do this.
Next time around (hopefully not due flat tire) I think I will pull the entire pumpkin off and do a complete service.
At a current total of 6500 miles on the bike, the splines look good (I haven't checked the hypoid oil yet).
If all's good - then (this time around) I'm probably just going to do the moly paste, oil and then go riding.

The most important part of the entire service is that you loosen the 4 nuts that hold the rear end on, and tighten them AFTER the axle is torqued. Do that, and you're probably good to go with those few miles on the bike.

[kyllini]

Yes - I will definitely remember to loosen the 4 bolts. Seems like that's the best way to make sure the parts are properly aligned when reinstalling. And (although I haven't done it yet) will probably help getting wheel and flange back into the pumpkin.
Hopefully things will go back easier than they came apart.
Can't wait to get this lady fixed & back on the road!