DesertDragonRider
|
 |
« on: June 30, 2013, 08:37:09 PM » |
|
I want to cut my windshield down about an inch or more? What blade do I need on a Jigsaw as far as teeth? I think maybe a 24 TPI (Teeth per inch) , is that right?
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
old2soon
|
 |
« Reply #1 on: June 30, 2013, 09:37:40 PM » |
|
Fine tooth and some are cutting thru the blue painters tape after the layout. Double and triple check your measurements and go easy on the cut. You will have to sand off the edges when yer done. Keep in mind-once you cut it off it are GONE.  And keeping the portion being cut still and stable makes for a much smoother cut. Unless you have an old windshield like I did it's damn near impossible to practice first.  Be careful take your time measure twice cut once.  Good luck with your project. RIDE SAFE.
|
|
|
Logged
|
Today is the tommorow you worried about yesterday. If at first you don't succeed screw it-save it for nite check. 1964 1968 U S Navy. Two cruises off Nam. VRCCDS0240 2012 GL1800 Gold Wing Motor Trike conversion
|
|
|
ricoman
|
 |
« Reply #2 on: July 01, 2013, 04:03:52 AM » |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
take personal responsibility and keep your word
98 Tourer, black and chrome, added 8/11/10 98 Std, yellow/cream, totaled 8/3/10
|
|
|
DesertDragonRider
|
 |
« Reply #3 on: July 01, 2013, 04:33:13 AM » |
|
Thanks guys! The fine blade is the 24TPI ! Should have kept my old shield to practice on, oh well!
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Farther
|
 |
« Reply #4 on: July 01, 2013, 07:18:16 AM » |
|
I used a blade marked for use on plastic for straight cuts. So there may be one available for curved cuts. Get the curved cut one so you are not fighting the blade wanting to go straight. The finished cut was way better than I expected and required just a little touch-up with my palm sander and very fine sand paper.
|
|
|
Logged
|
Thanks, ~Farther
|
|
|
Patrick
Member
    
Posts: 15433
VRCC 4474
Largo Florida
|
 |
« Reply #5 on: July 01, 2013, 09:46:11 AM » |
|
Depending on how much you need to shorten it, a little bracket that pushes the bottom of the shield out/forward can lower it a few inches. No matter how many times I cut mine, it was still too short ! 
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Jabba
Member
    
Posts: 3563
VRCCDS0197
Greenwood Indiana
|
 |
« Reply #6 on: July 01, 2013, 10:40:08 AM » |
|
I found that a rotozip worked better for me. It got the plastic away and kept the whole thing cooler, and didn't make the shield bounce. When I used a sabre saw... I broke the shield. When I used a roto-zip, I did not.
YMMV
Jabba
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Farther
|
 |
« Reply #7 on: July 01, 2013, 11:07:41 AM » |
|
Depending on how much you need to shorten it, a little bracket that pushes the bottom of the shield out/forward can lower it a few inches.
With only an inch to remove you should seriously consider this before cutting the shield. There was also a post awhile back on how to gently bend the bottom support to accomplish the same.
|
|
|
Logged
|
Thanks, ~Farther
|
|
|
Bocephus
Member
    
Posts: 67
97 Valkyrie
Elizabethton, TN.
|
 |
« Reply #8 on: July 01, 2013, 04:56:07 PM » |
|
Dremel tool works great. Have cut 2 windshields and no busted ones yet. 
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Chiefy
|
 |
« Reply #9 on: July 01, 2013, 05:35:34 PM » |
|
I used a fine blade in a sabre saw easy-peasy.
I put several strips of tape on the WS and drove around trying to find exactly where I wanted the cut to be. I carefully marked it exactly where I wanted it, and it's a little too short now. Oh well, the old height had the top exactly in the middle of my vision, like a pair of bifocals, so this is better.
After I cut it, I picked up some helmet buffeting. I was going to buy a set of Baker Wings anyway. They tuned out the buffeting, so all is well.
|
|
|
Logged
|
 1998 Valk Standard 52,500 miles
|
|
|
Raider
|
 |
« Reply #10 on: July 01, 2013, 07:59:53 PM » |
|
Seems like a fine blade band saw would be best. You've got to have someone close by with a band saw. If not, it's a great excuse to get one!
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
ricoman
|
 |
« Reply #11 on: July 02, 2013, 03:59:52 AM » |
|
Seems like a fine blade band saw would be best. You've got to have someone close by with a band saw. If not, it's a great excuse to get one!
Using a bandsaw would mean taking the windshield off the bike. That may be OK for an IS. That is not the best way to cut it down for a Std. or Tourer. Horsing the chunk of plastic around the bandsaw blade would be awkward at best and maybe a bit risky. I'm thinking using a Dremel like Bocephus did would do really well.
|
|
« Last Edit: July 02, 2013, 04:01:45 AM by ricoman »
|
Logged
|
take personal responsibility and keep your word
98 Tourer, black and chrome, added 8/11/10 98 Std, yellow/cream, totaled 8/3/10
|
|
|
shortleg
|
 |
« Reply #12 on: July 02, 2013, 04:45:03 AM » |
|
What kind of blade did you use on the roto-zip.
Shortleg[Dave]
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Jabba
Member
    
Posts: 3563
VRCCDS0197
Greenwood Indiana
|
 |
« Reply #13 on: July 02, 2013, 05:24:01 AM » |
|
What kind of blade did you use on the roto-zip.
Shortleg[Dave]
I don't remember... but it would cut the plastic and throw it out of the way so it didn't get hot and melt things. It worked really well. It MUST have been just a standard cutting bit. All I can remember buying for it are those and sheetrock bits.  Jabba
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|