Changed my U-joint and drice shaft

[santa]

I had a lot of slack in the drive line at low speeds. So I wanted to change out the U-joint before I go to Inzane. The Ujoint I took out seems to be in good condition?? But I replaced it and the drive shaft anyway. Took a test ride, no slack in the drive line now. Boy was I a happy camper! But still can't find anything wrong with the old one.

Santa

[BobB]

I suggest that you bring the old drive shaft to Inzane.  Plenty on "experts" there to take a look at it.
Your issue may have been on the rear end of the drive shaft and you did not replace the pinion cup that goes into the pumpkin.

[Chrisj CMA]

Could be the actual splines at the front end that mate with the output shaft of the engine are worn.  That could allow rotational play right there

[santa]

All splines looked good the only problem I did see was an indent (very small) worn into the end of the drive shaft the goes in to the pinion cup. It looked like it was hitting the nut? I would have replaced the pinion cup but couldn't get the nut off. The book says you need a special tool I don't have. Everything fit good on pre-assemble so I put the new seals,spring, rings,drive shaft and U-joint in. It seems tobe working OK and definetly better then it was.
Santa

[Chrisj CMA]

All splines looked good the only problem I did see was an indent (very small) worn into the end of the drive shaft the goes in to the pinion cup. It looked like it was hitting the nut? I would have replaced the pinion cup but couldn't get the nut off. The book says you need a special tool I don't have. Everything fit good on pre-assemble so I put the new seals,spring, rings,drive shaft and U-joint in. It seems tobe working OK and definetly better then it was.
Santa

I understand the drive splines are good.  I meant the little internal splines in the end of the u joint.  All it takes is some wear widening the gaps between each tooth a little and there can be more rotational play between the output shaft and the U-joint

[John Schmidt]

To do a basic test of the u-joint, use a rather large SQUARE shafted screwdriver. Just trying to twist or pull by hand won't do it. Hold one side of the joint, push the screwdriver through the space on top of the center cross piece. Twist(don't pry) the screwdriver and it will apply some "separating" force on the two halves of the joint at the cross piece. With a new joint you get very slight movement, if any. But on a used joint that "appears" to be good, you'll get a lot of movement if it's bad. Try it on both sides of the joint, if one side is loose you can bet the other half is also. Together, makes for a loose connection in the driveline.