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Author Topic: Progressive Spring Compressor Tool Kit (PS# 32-5508)  (Read 1058 times)
Valkorado
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*****
Posts: 10509


VRCC DS 0242

Gunnison, Colorado (7,703') Here there be twisties.


« on: July 02, 2013, 08:03:58 AM »

Got some used Progressive 440s, and ordered the 440 Series Chrome Cover Retrofit Kit (great deal on eBay) to replace the scratched covers.  A quick glance at the instructions tells me I will need the Progressive Spring Compressor Tool Kit (PS# 32-5508) to install the new covers.  Checked online and it looks like they run about $35.00 before shipping.  Does anyone have this tool, and would be willing to let a po' boy borrow it?  Or, has anyone found a way to do this without this tool?

I also purchased new bushings for the shocks, and was reading they are a real bitch to get in.  Anyone have suggestions from a successful bushing install to make that process easier?
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Have you ever noticed when you're feeling really good,
there's always a pigeon that'll come sh!t on your hood?
- John Prine

97 Tourer "Silver Bullet"
01 Interstate "Ruby"

R J
Member
*****
Posts: 13380


DS-0009 ...... # 173

Des Moines, IA


« Reply #1 on: July 02, 2013, 09:40:45 AM »

Son & I have changed out several non Progressive to Progressive springs.

Sure it is easier with their tool but if ya got any upper body strength, you can press the cap down and a buddy can try to start the threads.     We have been successful on several sets.

Our hardest one was on my Chevy Trike with the HD Wide Glide tree in it.    We worked up a sweat on that one.
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44 Harley ServiCar
 



 

John Schmidt
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*****
Posts: 15278


a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #2 on: July 02, 2013, 02:47:40 PM »

I made my own. The spacer tubes you see are nothing more than elec. conduit. Had a couple pieces of scrap aluminum for the large blocks on either end, used a hole drill for the bottom one. Only real cost was the large hook type bolt and the two long ones on either side. I did have to remove a bit of the curve in the hook. Also bought a couple washers only because I wanted new ones in there on top. Just stick the shock up from the bottom, hook into the top mounting ring and start screwing down on the nut on top. It will pull up on the shock but won't allow the outer shield to come up, letting you remove the locking collars after which you release the nut on the hook. For a little extra safety, I added a second nut on top in case the threads stripped on either the hook or the main nut. Works fine, I replaced the standard springs for heavy duty ones on my Progressive 412's.

Instead of using a nut on the bottom or top of the square plates, I simply drilled and tapped the bottom plate. That makes it a flat surface on the bottom. Or, you can counter sink a nut if you have thick enough material. The measurements I have are as follows:

Plates...........4.5" x 3"
Height..........6" (length of elec. conduit)
Bottom hole..2"
All bolts........3/8" diameter
Hook bolt......8" (overall length)

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pancho
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Posts: 2113


Bonanza Arkansas


« Reply #3 on: July 02, 2013, 04:48:02 PM »

   HA   Good tool Stuffy........... 
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Valkorado
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*****
Posts: 10509


VRCC DS 0242

Gunnison, Colorado (7,703') Here there be twisties.


« Reply #4 on: July 02, 2013, 05:41:16 PM »

Very impressive tool, John.  I think I may try the RJ method next time I get to Misfit's garage.  I'll utilize his upper body strength, and I'll be the buddy who starts the threads!   Grin
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Have you ever noticed when you're feeling really good,
there's always a pigeon that'll come sh!t on your hood?
- John Prine

97 Tourer "Silver Bullet"
01 Interstate "Ruby"

John Schmidt
Member
*****
Posts: 15278


a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #5 on: July 02, 2013, 07:32:44 PM »

Very impressive tool, John.  I think I may try the RJ method next time I get to Misfit's garage.  I'll utilize his upper body strength, and I'll be the buddy who starts the threads!   Grin
Keep in mind the springs are no picnic to compress. If you get it partially compressed and lose it, be ready to duck or have some treatment supplies handy. I've seen guys try it that way, some worked out OK, others....not so much. Only reason I made this tool is so I have full control of the shock through the whole process, and don't need any other hands to help. After picking up the parts it took me about an hour to build it.
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Jess from VA
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Posts: 30686


No VA


« Reply #6 on: July 02, 2013, 07:48:49 PM »

I was lowering an 800 Kawi and taking the shocks apart on the bike to instal spacers.  I got the last bolts off the top of the tubes very carefully, expecting things to come out quickly.... and nothing.  Ducking down, I shook the bike.... and nothing.  So I retrieved my trusty rubber mallet, and standing aside, smartly whacked the fork tube.... and parts launched out of the fork tube in an elliptical trajectory up and over my 7' fence into the neighbor's backyard.       

Daaaaaad...... that guy is throwing stuff at us.   crazy2
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John Schmidt
Member
*****
Posts: 15278


a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #7 on: July 03, 2013, 07:58:52 AM »

I was lowering an 800 Kawi and taking the shocks apart on the bike to instal spacers.  I got the last bolts off the top of the tubes very carefully, expecting things to come out quickly.... and nothing.  Ducking down, I shook the bike.... and nothing.  So I retrieved my trusty rubber mallet, and standing aside, smartly whacked the fork tube.... and parts launched out of the fork tube in an elliptical trajectory up and over my 7' fence into the neighbor's backyard.       

Daaaaaad...... that guy is throwing stuff at us.   crazy2
Hey Jess, now I know why you became a lawyer and not a mechanic.  2funny 2funny

Take care bud.
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R J
Member
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Posts: 13380


DS-0009 ...... # 173

Des Moines, IA


« Reply #8 on: July 03, 2013, 08:31:04 AM »

I think I misread the original request.      I was referring to the springs in the front forks, where ya take the cap off and then use body builders weight to get it restarted.

For rear shocks, we use the tool we got from Snap-on to replace and or rebuild rear struts, or front ones in Chyrsler products, & 99% of foriegn automobiles.

In fact we got a Nissan out front we have to replace the struts on today..
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Farther
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Posts: 1680


Quimper Peninsula, WA


« Reply #9 on: July 03, 2013, 02:00:40 PM »

In fact we got a Nissan out front we have to replace the struts on today..
How come a guy who rode motorcycles for the CHiPs when they ran wooden spokes in not retired yet?   ???
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Thanks,
~Farther
John Schmidt
Member
*****
Posts: 15278


a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #10 on: July 03, 2013, 02:36:16 PM »

In fact we got a Nissan out front we have to replace the struts on today..
How come a guy who rode motorcycles for the CHiPs when they ran wooden spokes in not retired yet?   ???
Gotta love it!  2funny Grin 2funny Grin
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