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Author Topic: Bleed Clutch Instructions  (Read 5101 times)
DarkSideR
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« on: August 01, 2013, 09:36:40 AM »

Shifting has slowly gone from smooth to rough shifts. I suspect I have air in my clutch line. I have looked but haven't been able to find instructions on how to properly bleed the clutch. Can you please send me a document, or a link, or just list out step-by-step instructions?
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2001 Valkyrie Super Tourer
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vanagon40
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Greenwood, IN


« Reply #1 on: August 01, 2013, 11:14:00 AM »

You'll get a lot of different opinions on this subject.  Some like to use a hand operated vacuum pump.  Some use a hypodermic syringe to suck out the fluid, some use the syringe to pump in the fluid from the caliper up.  Others install speed bleeders which is a bleeder with a check valve installed.

Simplest method with no fancy tools or equipment is to:

1.  Remove the reservoir cover (being careful not to spill any fluid).

2.  Attach a hose to bleeder and put the other end of the hose in a jar.

3.  Open the bleeder valve (unscrew 1/4 to 1/2 turn).

4.  Slowly squeeze the clutch lever to almost all the way and keep it squeezed in.

5.  Close the bleeder valve (screw it back in).

6.  Slowly release the clutch lever.

Repeats steps 3 to 6 until all the air is out of the line (or new, clean fluid is coming out the hose).  Make sure to add fluid to the reservoir as necessary so the reservoir never runs dry.

7.  Top off the fluid in the reservoir and replace the cap.

FOR GOOD MEASURE:  Pull in the clutch lever, tie it to the handle bar, and let it set overnight.

Depending on your arm length and agility, bleeding the fluid in the above manner may be a two person job.  It definitely is on an automobile.

GOOD LUCK.
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DarkSideR
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« Reply #2 on: August 01, 2013, 11:16:09 AM »

This is where I am failing. Where is the bleeder valve?
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2001 Valkyrie Super Tourer
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vanagon40
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Greenwood, IN


« Reply #3 on: August 01, 2013, 11:22:54 AM »

Ignore the added air horn.  Looking at the petcock, the bleeder valve is just below 5:00 o'clock.  Sticking up at a 45° angle pointing to the front.  Has a little black rubber cap in it.

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whitestroke
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San Pedro, Ca.


« Reply #4 on: August 01, 2013, 11:49:37 AM »

If you use a use a hand operated vacuum pump does it matter if the clutch lever is pulled in or out?
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sandy
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« Reply #5 on: August 01, 2013, 02:27:23 PM »

If you use a use a hand operated vacuum pump does it matter if the clutch lever is pulled in or out?

No it doesn't matter. Although operating the lever moves all the old fluid out of the cylinder into the line where it'll get flushed.
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Dorkman
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San Carlos, CA


« Reply #6 on: August 01, 2013, 03:37:31 PM »


If you use a hand operated vacuum pump, the manual method, or inserting syringe from below, be sure to use 5/32" ID clear tubing to get a tight fit on the bleed valve.  Once air gets in the system, you will go nuts.

If you go the speed bleeder route, 1/8" ID clear tubing fits nice and tight on the speed bleeders.  I found the vacuum pump to be awkward to use...but that's just me.  Install speed bleeders once, clutch and brakes, good to go for now and future.

Many posts mention turning handle bars to right, loosen and tilt upward, loosen clutch res to get it  level.  Cover tank with towel.  Zip tie clutch lever overnight or longer lets any bubble rise.  Tap round banjo bolt with rubber mallet to encourage bubbles to move.  All good info. 
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DarkSideR
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« Reply #7 on: August 02, 2013, 06:30:33 PM »

Well I did it. I replaced the clutch fluid. Doesn't shift any smoother  Sad Anyway thank you for your help here.
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Whooray
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« Reply #8 on: August 03, 2013, 05:29:06 AM »

Joshcornkid, we met at Misfits at the get together.....some riders find that the shifting is smoother using different brands, weights of oil. Seems to make a big difference to some. Raymond
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