I could use some help in Fletcher NC.

[cokebottle10]

First of all I would like to thank all the people that have contributed to this site. I have been lurking here for months now and have leared alot.

I have a 1999 interstate. 21k miles. Soon after I got her she started to miss and stutter. I used some fuel cleaner and after the first tank she ran great. I replaced the rear tire and then took her on a 600 mile round trip to Birmingham AL and back to get to know her.  She performed better than I had expected in the mountains. Handled well with no missing or stutting problems at all. I added some “sta-bul” to the last tank and did not run her for about 5 weeks. She started right up and ran fine until she got warm then started to stumble and stutter again. I poured in some more cleaner and ran that tank out. I think that it is the slow jets. I now want to pull the carb assembly and clean them. While I’m doing this I also want to change the radiator fluid, motor oil and filter, rear end oil, inspect and clean the fuel shut off valve and screen, change out the timing belts, change out the vacuum lines and maybe do a de-smog. I like to work on my own stuff. I want to get this done before my next trip which will be to the FL keys in mid-September.

If anyone is in the Fletcher NC area (just below Asheville NC) and would like to help, watch and/or learn or just keep me company with free advice while I do this service you are welcome. I’m the kind of guy who likes to do this type of work and would happly return the favor.

[Bone]

Welcome to the group. I live in Michigan and use Stabil every year during our snow and frozen roads season. I've had good luck with it making sure it gets through the entire fuel system. These carbs plug up quickly if precautions are not taken.
Look at our Shoptalk section listed at the upper area of this page.
Goodluck with your project.

[Ricky-D]

You may be planning to bite off more than you can chew!

I would suggest to do the necessary things and go slow with the rest.

Looking at the splines on the rear would be good to do.

There have been many thread requesting "what should I do for maintenance?".

You should oil the levers completely and fully, is a good place to start.

Pulling the carburetors is folly unless you are very capable and even then it is not recommended, especially for the little problem you are having. Try running non-ethanol gas. That will help.

The belts need nothing.

Sounds like the bike just needs to be run more.

***

[vic]

PM sent

[Pappy!]

Am with the keep it simple strategy. Run it more, using some fuel system cleaner. Do some of the common sense/maintenance items you have on your list except for the belts. They should  be good to go.
When you head South to the keys get on the Florida Board and let us know. You will probably have some friends to ride a ways with!

[cokebottle10]

Thanks for your responses.

I have used stabil for years and have never had a problem with it or the things that I use it in. I don't think that it caused a problem this time ether. But I have had this happen twice now and I want to make sure that something is not floating around in the carbs. I don't plan to take them completely apart but just remove them as an assembly.

I re-greased the splines and looked at the pivot cup when I changed out the tire. I now have a 1000 miles on that tire and would not mind taking another look at the splines and take apart the pivot cup to more closely inspect it. I did not use the moly paste just the moly grease on the splines. The splines had about 10% wear on them.

I want to change out the timing belts because I don't know how old they are. This will also give me a chance to look at the plugs.

The oil for the brakes looks new but the oil for the clutch is more brown so that is why I want to change it.

I don't know how many people owned this bike before me. I got it from a guy in FL just north of Orlando. He said that he got it from a guy in NC off of ebay. It is Green with silver, has the stock seat and stock pipes. If anyone thinks they know the history of it please let me know.

I will try to post photos as I go, but I may need some help with that.

[Hook#3287]

Listen to Ricky-D, the timing belts should be okay unless you have over 75K.

With 21K, just check them and if good, leave them alone.

Run some more cleaner, pulling the carbs is a lot of work and should be winter work.

But if you're going to do it, order some 38's

[cokebottle10]

"But if you're going to do it, order some 38's"

I think that you mean 38s are the slow jets in the carbs? Do you replace them or just hand drill them out? If you replace them where do you get them? Does anybody know what size the stock jet is? My understanding is that 38 slow jets will improve cold starting? Right now with a new battery she fires right up when cold but I have to have full choke even on hot days. Normal idle is about 600-700 RPM after she warms up.

I wish she had a volt meter and temp gauge. Because she is a I/S I think I will mount volt/temp gauges in the radiator pods sometime this coming winter.

[Ricky-D]

600-700 rpm is too low an idle.

900-1000 rpm is the sweet spot.

You chance damage to the motor with too low an idle.

And you electrical system is unduly strained.

***

[Hoser]

I looked at my timing belts at 100,000 miles as recommended, they were like new.  I shall check them again at 200,000 miles.  Hoser   

[cokebottle10]

You guys have just about talked me out of replacing the belts. I will check them and if they look good then leave them alone. I was not concerned about wear. I was concerned about age.

I can see straining the electric system with it running at too low an idle. This is what it was set at when I got it. I will raise it up a little and see what it runs like. Right now now it has a little rumble to it at 600 to 700. I thought it should be more steady. Maybe it's just lugging. Hopefully I will start meeting more Valk riders and compare theirs to mine.

As far as the carbs go I still want to take them off as a assemble. Then pull the tops and bottoms to clean out all the passage ways before my next trip. I just can't have the HD guys i'm riding with make fun of the phat girl while on this trip to the Keys.

[Hook#3287]

I think that you mean 38s are the slow jets in the carbs?

Correct.  Some have cleaned them and had good luck.  I didn't.  Had to do it twice.

First thing I did on the other bikes I bought used, was swap out to the 38 jets.  All's good.

Can't remember where I got the 38's, someone else may.  Do a search here, or google it and you should find it.

Order them first and hopefully you won't have any other issues on tear down. You should be able to do it in one long day or two short ones.

[Novavalker]

You likely have hole in your Petcock diaphram. They need to be check annually and a cover set doesn't cost much.

[Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008]

I have this voltmeter on my interstate very easy to install and always in my line of sight. Been running it for about 3yrs now with no problem. mounted it under the fairing and drilled a small hole next to the tach for the bulb. http://www.directlineparts.com/product.asp?pid=4354&str=0&mdl=&mdy=

[Hoser]

"I want to change out the timing belts because I don't know how old they are. This will also give me a chance to look at the plugs."

What does changing out the timing belts have to do with checking the plugs?  Hoser   ???

[cokebottle10]

You don't have the check the plugs to change the timing belts, but if you remove the plugs then you can rotate the motor by hand. While they are out it would be a good time to check them. I guess I should not have put these two things together in one paragraph.

[Hoser]

You don't have the check the plugs to change the timing belts, but if you remove the plugs then you can rotate the motor by hand. While they are out it would be a good time to check them. I guess I should not have put these two things together in one paragraph.

Gotcha.  You had me confused for a while.  Check em even if you don't change the belt, just don't remove the belts if they don't need changed, they can be checked without removing them..  Having replacing the belt before, not on my bike, it is really easy to misalign   a tooth when changing belts, which will damage the engine severely if it is started.  That's why I would be leery about changing the  belts if it is not needed.  JMHO  Hoser 

[Firefighter]

All of us riding Valks have old timing belts, doesn't cause trouble.