HELP !!! timing belt issue

[Sonny]

I made the decision to put my 6 degree trigger wheel back in.  I have changed this part a couple times with out issue simply by taking the front cover off, loosening the tension wheel, removing main bolt and timing plate off, take the belt off and switch out the wheel. Since normally nothing ever gets moved it has never been a problem.   But in this case the motor must have been at the top of stroke because the right bank moved but I do not know which direction. I lined up all the index marks but something is wrong. It fires up but you can tell timing is way off.

Any ideas ???????????

[Pete]

Get out the manual and recheck the timing marks.
I would not turn it over or run it until I was absolutely sure it was mechanically timed correct.
It sure sounds like something is not correct or worse something is damaged.
Good luck.

[Patrick]

I realize its too late now, but something should be wedged between the pulley and the case before removing the belt and then the engine turned over by hand checking the timing marks before starting the engine.
Anyway, remove the sparklers and turn the engine to try and align all the timing marks. I think you'll find them off which means the belt is off a tooth or 2. Once set back up properly, a compression test is in order to check whether there is any engine damage.

[old2soon]

If you did not hear any EXPENSIVE noises you MIGHT be O-K. Hopefully ya didn't break it. When I replaced my timing belts I triple quadruple checked everything then did it 2 more times to make sure.  RIDE SAFE.

[BigMac (SoCal)]

When I did mine it jumped as you described. I bent two valves on no 3 and no 5 cylinder. One on each which was one intake and one exhaust. Doesn't run well on 4 cylinders that's for sure. It was a fairly easy fix but it cost around $160.00 bucks to fix it.

Dave

[6tigo]

Is the timing plate location dimple OK?  It can sheer allowing the plate to be off location.

[Sonny]

With all timing marks in place it fires right up but still sounds like its out of time. I did notice a noise on the right side I don't like very much. Was hoping it was a timing issue.

I guess a compression test is now in order. I will have to get a tester, don't have one.

[3W-lonerider]

i know this is a dumb question. seeing that you've replaced it before.
but you did'nt mistakenly put the trigger wheel in backward did you.

[Sonny]

The trigger wheel only has (out) and number six marks on one side and its facing out. I'm generally not that lucky.  All timing marks are in line, bike fires right up, sounds like timing is off or dead cylinders. 

[Mondo Limbo]

You're not using a Dyna300 by chance, are you?  They sometimes do not work well with the aftermarket trigger wheels.

[Sonny]

No, ignition system is stock. Actually everything else is stock. Barrowed a compression tester. Will do that next.

[R J]

It is VERY EASY to blow a couple of valves.

Do your compression test before ya do anything else.

[Sonny]

Something is simply not right!  I ran the compression test and nothing on the right side at all. But I checked the left side out of curiosity and found 2 cylinders with 72-psi and 1 with 110. Until this issue the bike has run flawlessly. I mean twist it hard and it smokes the tire. No way it runs that good with 72 pounds compression.

What is up ?????????????????????????

[Cracker Jack]

Did you hold the throttle open while you did the test??

[Patrick]

Something is simply not right!  I ran the compression test and nothing on the right side at all. But I checked the left side out of curiosity and found 2 cylinders with 72-psi and 1 with 110. Until this issue the bike has run flawlessly. I mean twist it hard and it smokes the tire. No way it runs that good with 72 pounds compression.

What is up ?????????????????????????

Low readings can happen if the engine hasn't been run for a time. Those readings may come up when the engine is warm. I'd recommend checking then rechecking the timing marks. If they are/were off, which I suspect they were/are, then its very easy to 'warp' a few valves. I think its time to get your hands dirty and pull the valve cover and sparklers. WIth the piston at BDC work the valves and look for full and free travel, I think you'll find that some will be 'sticky' [bent]. I doubt you'll find the pistons damaged when you take the head off.

[Sonny]

I have the valve cover off and I'm on top dead center. Cylinder 1 & 3 intake valves have about 3/32" clearance between the valve end and rocker arm, not good. I'm guessing that means they are most likely bent/stuck. 

Is the intake valves the ones most likely to get bent ??

[Pete]

Sorry to hear that, seems like it is time to pull the heads and do a valve job.
Which valves get bent depend on which way it is out of time and how much.

[Patrick]

I have the valve cover off and I'm on top dead center. Cylinder 1 & 3 intake valves have about 3/32" clearance between the valve end and rocker arm, not good. I'm guessing that means they are most likely bent/stuck. 

Is the intake valves the ones most likely to get bent ??

Well, it sure seems like a couple pistons bumped into some valves. The valves loose that fight. Time to get your hands dirty and pull the head.

[Brian]

Sorry to hear that you are having this issue. I highly recommend you get a shop manual and study it before you go any further. The Clymer manual worked for me when I had to take the heads off due to low compression, the PO had somehow built up carbon on the valves so bad the bike would not run well. I ended up hand cleaning all the valves and hand grinding all the valve seats. It wasn't hard at all, just time consuming. The manual paid for itself. There are no short cuts.

Good luck.

[Sonny]

Have the Clymer manual. Started disassembly process. Right side is off. Everything looks great except the intake valves, all 3 are bent. I'm hoping the seats are perfectly intact. Have to find a valve spring compressor to take them out.  Unless someone has another way?

[Brian]

Have the Clymer manual. Started disassembly process. Right side is off. Everything looks great except the intake valves, all 3 are bent. I'm hoping the seats are perfectly intact. Have to find a valve spring compressor to take them out.  Unless someone has another way?

Sonny, I ordered my spring compressor from J-P Cycles. It worked great. I don't think they handle it any more. It might be worth a phone call or check you local auto parts store that rents tools. It needs to be one that works or spans that deep head. It's been 7 years since I had to do my valves.

[Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008]

Check out local parts stores. Most of them will have a compress you can borrow with a small deposit.

[Sonny]

Still have not found a valve spring compressor. All the local auto parts stores have a large group of tools they loan but not one valve spring compressor.

Has anyone came up with a tool on there own to do this ???

[Patrick]

An automotive machine shop will [should] have one.