Let's make sure I've got this spline thing....

[rich_kildow]

I had to avoid a deer the other night and locked up the rear tire a bit, prompting an inspection after I pulled the seat out of my crack.  I now have a flat spot and a hint of cord showing, so time to throw on the last of the Dunlop E3's that came with the bike.  I've read all the obligatory tech articles and done my fair share of searching, but had a few questions.

I know I'll need the following:

3 O-rings: http://www.carolinabikeandtrike.com/ORings.htm

Moly disulfide paste: http://www.amazon.com/Pro-Honda-Moly-Paste-oz/dp/B0083BWUYW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1375923580&sr=8-1&keywords=honda+moly

Exhaust gaskets...maybe.

Thrust washer should be fine at 25k.  What kind of grease do I use on the rest of the parts that don't call for moly paste?  I've seen references on here to moly grease and making sure to not mix the two, so I'm confused there.  Any thing else to look at or replace while I'm in there?  I'm not sure I want to do the double bearing mod yet, and I'll save that for a winter. 

I also have new dampers to drop in from the gentleman here that makes the shock bushings...can't remember his name 

[justintyper]

http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/ do some readin.... youll learn everything you need to know on these pages.

[John Schmidt]

Why would you need new exhaust gaskets, the exhaust doesn't need to be pulled to pull the rear end. If you don't have an I/S, this is the easiest and safest method. With a lift, raise the bike just a couple inches off the ground. The after removing the bags and the bag mount, I put a floor jack under the swingarm to release the tension on the shocks...then remove them. Now you can move the whole rear end up/down at will, just raise it enought to let the axle clear the exhaust. Before doing that, if you don't have an I/S remove the rear half of the rear fender so when the wheel is clear...just roll it out. No lifting, no wrestling, and an 800lb. bike isn't sitting two feet in the air. You can still remove the rear half of the fender on an I/S but it's more involved than just three bolts....main reason I don't have an I/S.

[rich_kildow]

I saw the exhaust gaskets mentioned in a few posts and figured I'd have them on hand if in case I need them...sounds like I don't.  I've read all the articles as well as dozens of other posts on here about the splines which leads to the confusion about which lubes.  I know moly paste goes on all things splined, but I have seen moly GREASE mentioned more than once to go different places when doing a spline lube job. 

I also found this powerpoint which seems to be very helpful...it might get printed in color and go in my valkyrie binder. 

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=5&ved=0CFcQFjAE&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.valkyrieriders.com%2Fshoptalk%2Frear_end_service.pptx&ei=GO4CUvnHPOmfyQH-1ICIAQ&usg=AFQjCNG0VUHhZxfbAXadV7viHBxUanOFFA&sig2=TjnlV4PAvsZ-CIgJmXYu3A&bvm=bv.50500085,d.aWc&cad=rja

[Apollo]

Just me but I think it is a good idea to replace the exhaust gaskets or anneal them since this is less of a job with exhuast out of the way.  This may help prevent an annoying exhaust leak.  I am doing this now and used this as an opportunity to give the pipes a good cleaning off the bike.

[Hook#3287]

This may help prevent an annoying exhaust leak.  I am doing this now and used this as an opportunity to give the pipes a good cleaning off the bike.

If you've got the time and energy, that's a good idea

Just remember to NOT over tighten the exhaust nuts, those suckers break easily.

Remember to re-tighten them after your first couple of rides.  They can disappear