Clutch issue!?!

[Oyeaa]

Thanks in advance to all those that help.   I think that my clutch may be going out, just wanted to know about options, opinions and maybe someone can tell me what is really going on.

Well here goes nothing.

I have noticed recently when I accelerate that after I release the clutch lever completely it seems to slip a little and RPM's shoot up without the corresponding acceleration then when the clutch grabs the RPM drop back down to the appropriate RPM for the speed.

To make matters worse I have even began to notice that if I am around 2500-3000 RPM and just hit it hard with lots of throttle the RPM's will also momentarily jump then settle back down to a more appropriate RPM for the speed.

Nothing on the bike has been changed or modified recently, I did upgrade to all stainless lines and chrome reservoirs etc a few years ago.  I rebuilt the master cylinders at that time.

How big a hassle is it to change a clutch?
I am also considering putting in the Mario gear modification while it is torn apart as well.
Any input is welcome.

[Rio Wil]

how many miles in the clutch and what oil are you using.  i had a similar thing while using m1 20-50.

[Patrick]

I would agree regarding the type of oil be used.. Does the clutch engage and disengage smoothly?,, if so,, I would doubt the clutch is defective.. I would be more apt to think its slipping because of the lever and/or bushing..Take it apart to clean / lube it and make sure its not too worn.. You could also shorten the pushrod a bit[ about .020-.025"] to allow for more free-play..

[Oyeaa]

Thanks for the input so far!  Here is a little more background and answers the questions asked so far.

I have always used Rotella T Synthetic 5w-40w since I bought it two years ago, and I have clocked about 15,000 miles on the bike in the last two years since I bought it.  I do not know what the last owner used.  I bought it with 40,000 miles in 6/2007 and it has 55,000 miles on it now. 

When I bought this bike when I was replacing my 99 Interstate that had been wrecked, a very sad story  :'( .

I took the Newly rebuilt reservoirs, brake cylinders and various other custom chromed parts off the 99 and put them on the 2000 I/S.  The Clutch and front brake reservoirs and calipers (master cylinders) were all rebuilt when chromed and new SS lines installed.  I then flushed and filled all the new parts with synthetic brake fluid that was marked compatible with DOT 3&4.

This morning I took apart the lever/bushing and I have inspected the bushings and they are in good shape, re-lubricated and re-assembled.  This does not seem to be the issue.  I know some people have experienced bushing wear resulting in a lot of slop around the lever pivot pin.  Mine seem pretty reasonably snug.  Also, the levers and the the push rod interface are good.  I do not think that shortening the push rod in this case is the right solution as the push rod did not get longer and the lever is the same one that has worker for years.  If anything the wear between them will effectively shorten the push rod.  The master piston travel is spring returned against a hard stop comprised of a washer and a internal snap ring.  It appears that the master piston is hitting this stop when the lever is released, as there seems to be a small amount of lever travel before contact is made and I can feel the pressure associated with pushing the master piston, also the alignment of the lever and reservoir with the pivot bolt pulled is good I would expect that if there were any unreleased spring pressure being applied to the push rod it would show itself when the pivot bolt is removed.

The clutch seems to engage and disengage smoothly as always.  It starts to enter the friction zone at the same amount of release an feels fully released before the lever hits the stop. 


Also it happens with that lever fully released and cruising for a while if I hit the throttle hard it slips for a few seconds then seems to catch again.

I guess the next thing to do is buy some Dino oil and change the oil and filter, ride it for some time and then repeat a couple times with some miles in between to flush out all the synthetic to see if this helps any.

Thanks again with the help offered so far.

[daytona]

Is the top dia from some other bike? Wondering if the second spring is in there? and what is the check valve thing @ the slave plumbing! 

[Rio Wil]

I ran  10-30 M1 for one oil change (5K) and the slipping stopped, then went to Rotella 5-40 and have about 500 miles on that oil and have noticed no slippage. I have to say I haven't pushed it too hard in this 500 miles, but will give it a go tomorrow.  Hate to think 5-40 R is not suitable?

[daytona]

I've run M1 full syn 15w50 diesel eng oil in all my wet clutch bikes for years. Intruder, bandit, Busa, MV Mastiff, and now the Valk I/S. Never an issue! just smoother shifting, cooler running and for 5K miles drains! I ride em almost like I stole em!!!

[daytona]

Is the top dia from some other bike? Wondering if the second spring is in there? and what is the check valve thing @ the slave plumbing! 

Ok I C its from some other bike! Sorry!

[Oyeaa]

Daytona, man, I hope you are just kidding 

You are really funny if you are kidding ha, ha, ha,

Both the pictures are from the Honda Valkyrie Service Manual and are accurate diagrams of the Valkyrie Clutch hydraulic systems.

Well I changed the oil to DINO 10w30 with no friction modifiers and put on a new filter. 

Man is it noisy now, sounds like I need to adjust the valves! 

Unfortunately no significant mileage yet, but for the 100 miles or so I put on it today it is still slipping when I really get on it.

Hopefully it helps soon.   

[Robert]

Just bite the bullet and change the clutch cost is not to bad and neither is the job and you can put in a Barnett Kevlar clutch OOOOOOOOOOHHHHHHHHHHHHHH

[Robert]

Hey I just wanted to rub a little salt in the wound if Lady Draco can do it then you can too. I must say theres something sexy about a woman working on her own bike not to mention I love the finger nail polish when she is showing you the rivets in the damper plate. Thanks to the Lady.
http://www.far-riders.com/albums/displayimage.php?album=68&pos=3

[daytona]

Daytona, man, I hope you are just kidding 

You are really funny if you are kidding ha, ha, ha,

Both the pictures are from the Honda Valkyrie Service Manual and are accurate diagrams of the Valkyrie Clutch hydraulic systems.

Well I changed the oil to DINO 10w30 with no friction modifiers and put on a new filter. 

Man is it noisy now, sounds like I need to adjust the valves! 

Unfortunately no significant mileage yet, but for the 100 miles or so I put on it today it is still slipping when I really get on it.

Hopefully it helps soon.   

kiddin! about what? The first dia doesn't seem to fit too me! and the only prob any oil willcause with a clutch is the friction modifiers, energy conserving. Here is a pic of the clutch master from the parts fisch on this site, sounds like your disc's are gone! change em B 4 you have to do the whole thing. JMO.
 

[daytona]

Did the preve owner tow a Boat?

[Sludge]

Hmm.  I had hoped your change to dyno oil would have helped a bit.  Perhaps the previous owner had a bad habit of riding the clutch etc and has just worn it out.  The clutch change is pretty easy, but a special tool is required to do it.  You might drop by the honda shop and take a look at theirs and perhaps build your own version, or if your lucky borrow theirs.  You will also need a press to take the pack apart.

So far as the Mario gears go.  You wont be going that far during a clutch change to do that.  Your going to have to pull the engine to switch that stuff over.  You dont have to pull the engine to do a clutch.  Finding a kit for that if you havent done so already may prove to be a problem.  Also, my understanding is that its not a real good thing anyway.  Esp if you arent supercharged or something.