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Author Topic: Dead starter  (Read 1023 times)
CG
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Posts: 44



« on: September 09, 2013, 04:01:50 PM »

Valk's starter button just died.  Nothing happens when pressed however,  I got it started by dumping the clutch(2nd gear), which I did to get home. It ran fine, starter button just doesn't work. 
Guessing it's either the switch itself or perhaps the relay? I doubt the relay is the issue as everything else works, i.e., lights, blinkers, horn, etc. and it runs.
Note: I replaced the light bulb up front with a hotter one 80/90 which I understand is acceptable.  I did this about a month ago.  Not sure it' s relevant or not in this case(remember it still works).

Where should I start with this?  Thanks guys...
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pancho
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Bonanza Arkansas


« Reply #1 on: September 09, 2013, 04:19:22 PM »

start with the starter switch,,, the hotter lamp will make more current flow through the switch which will cause the contacts to melt into the plastic substrate. You need to modify the headlight circuit to run through a relay to keep the current from running through the start switch.
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The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
Thunderbolt
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Worthington Springs FL.


« Reply #2 on: September 09, 2013, 04:21:37 PM »

Higher wattage bulb might have had some effect.  The headlight actually runs through the starter button contacts normally and they heat up more with the higher wattage bulb.  Here is a link to shoptalk to correct the problem  Just be really careful as there are springs.  Put an old white sheet underneath the bike when you take it apart.
http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/VSGPages/starterbutton.htm
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CG
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« Reply #3 on: September 09, 2013, 04:51:39 PM »

Thanks fellas.  Never noticed before but the headlight cuts out upon depressing the starter.  Normal?

In an attempt to rule out the battery, hooked it up to the charger.  Charger's fully charged light comes on and stops sending the battery the juice.  Thinking the battery is ok? 

If the light cutting out is normal upon starting, I'm headed for the starter switch..........Thanks again.
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Thunderbolt
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Worthington Springs FL.


« Reply #4 on: September 09, 2013, 04:56:21 PM »

Yes that is exactly what it is supposed to do.  It is supposed to take the 12V that goes to the lights and spin the starter when the button is pressed.  It is opening as it should, just not closing the other side.  Common problem.
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CG
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Posts: 44



« Reply #5 on: September 09, 2013, 05:17:35 PM »

Ok, great.  When I pull the starter switch apart, what am I looking for?  Is there a rebuild kit available?  Obviously I've not been in there before to know what I'm up against.  Worse, I probably should be going through the archives but I was just preparing for vacation, leaving Wed. for a ride and this happened.  Strapped a bit for time is all.........Anyway, thanks for picking me up on this fellas!  Not sure this matters either but bike has about 32k miles........
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Moonshot_1
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Posts: 5113


Me and my Valk at Freedom Rock


« Reply #6 on: September 09, 2013, 07:01:01 PM »

Go to the link Thunderbolt posted. http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/VSGPages/starterbutton.htm

Here you will find a detailed explanation of the Starter Switch maintenance procedure.
Read it over a couple of times.
It's a fairly easy thing to do. Just take your time.
Most will be self evident as you proceed.
Make sure you keep track of all the parts. Screws, spring, and such. You'll need them all. No extra parts when you are done.
It can take a couple of times before you get things to work just right. Maybe even more. So don't get frustrated.
Had to do this a couple of weeks ago. Took me 4 attempts to get it working good. Even broke a wire and had to re-solder it. Once you do get it working well, it's usually good for quite a while. (Sometimes years)

I'm not aware of a rebuild kit.

Sometimes when you wiggle (gently) the starter switch as you depress it or push it in at an angle, it will start the bike. But sometimes your headlight won't come on.

Anyway, read the explanation at the link and post your progress.
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Mike Luken 
 

Cherokee, Ia.
Former Iowa Patriot Guard Ride Captain
CG
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« Reply #7 on: September 09, 2013, 08:09:37 PM »

Thanks Moonshot_1 will do.
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CG
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« Reply #8 on: September 09, 2013, 08:23:47 PM »

Reading the article now.  Unfortunately none of the hot linked pics are available any longer:(
Still, it all makes sense.......Thx again......
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Rio Wil
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Posts: 1357



« Reply #9 on: September 09, 2013, 08:51:40 PM »

If push comes to shove, just carry a coin in your pocket to jump across the two big cables on the start relay.  Turn the ignition to start and jump the wires....beats hell out of push starting it and a lot safer.

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9Ball
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Posts: 2183


South Jersey


« Reply #10 on: September 10, 2013, 03:39:21 AM »

If push comes to shove, just carry a coin in your pocket to jump across the two big cables on the start relay.  Turn the ignition to start and jump the wires....beats hell out of push starting it and a lot safer.



Big note here...you also want to be very sure the bike is in NEUTRAL (or clutch engaged) when you do this.... cooldude
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VRCC #6897, Joined May, 2000

1999 Standard
2007 Rocket 3
2005 VTX 1300S
CG
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Posts: 44



« Reply #11 on: September 10, 2013, 09:54:08 AM »

Well,
Thanks to this forum and the people in it, this man's Valk is back and vacation plans still on!  It was the starter switch, which was rebuildable,  as stated. Direction was all spot on.  Integrity of the switch, including the contact points were all good.  No abnormal or "melted" parts. It was just dirty/stuck.  Floating contact points were had to move at all, they were stuck as I removed them.  Used cleaner, scotch pad and lube as instructed and whalla!!  Lubed the throttle housing while it was apart.  It too works much better as it used to stick periodically.  My spring under the floating contacts didn't want to come out for some reason but I did stretch it a tad before installing the contact points.  I think this is key, along with buffing with scotch pad.  Switch seemed to stick a tad until that lubricant worked in good.  Now all is good.........

Fired it off before re-installing for test purposes.  Thanks again to all!
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Thunderbolt
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Worthington Springs FL.


« Reply #12 on: September 10, 2013, 11:13:11 AM »

Thanks for reporting back and have a safe trip.
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Rio Wil
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Posts: 1357



« Reply #13 on: September 10, 2013, 12:30:58 PM »

If push comes to shove, just carry a coin in your pocket to jump across the two big cables on the start relay.  Turn the ignition to start and jump the wires....beats hell out of push starting it and a lot safer.



Big note here...you also want to be very sure the bike is in NEUTRAL (or clutch engaged) when you do this.... cooldude

Right on.... 2funny....figure anyone astute enough to push start one of these beasts is aware of the mechanicals.. Wink
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pancho
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Bonanza Arkansas


« Reply #14 on: September 10, 2013, 03:12:28 PM »

Hey Rio,, is it RIO like the backseat driver of an F4?? just wondering
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The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
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