Rusty exhaust manifold bolts (updated, job done)

[alph]

Alright, it’s not on the Valk, but on my truck!!  I’ve got an ’01 F-150 with a 5.4l V8 that has a hole in the cast iron exhaust manifold, rusted through!  And the bolts are all rusted to the point were they look like “cones”!  I’ve found that one of the mounting bolts (8 total) is broken off, I’m assuming from the manufacture since I’ve never touched that part of the engine before.  

So, I’m asking if anyone has any good ideas for getting these darn things off!  The local muffler guy wants $400 to do it, which might be a good deal if things go as bad as they normally do for me!!

My current plan is to cut the nuts off, pull the manifold off, heat up each individual stud and use an extracting tool.  I've been spraying "liquid wrench" on it once a day for the last week hoping it'd get onto the threads to ease the whole process.

Any “idea’s” or thoughts of what worked best for you, would be greatly appreciated!!

Al.

[Michvalk]

I have actually pulled a motor to fix the very same thing. At this stage of my life, I would just pay someone else to do it.

[matt]

Well on a ford I have not had to drill one yet!!!!   remove inner fender so you can get in there. yup you can cut nuts off if you want that works.  I have used a small map gas torch after getting manifold out of the way(you may have to heat that up to get it off studs as they rust in manifold pretty good)   Heat the base of the stud grab as close to head as possible and try to remove, other thing I have done for ones not wanting to move then is reheat and spray with PB blaster let it cool down come back 20-30 min later and remove.  good luck

[Skinhead]

If you had an air chisel handy, use a puch tool and hit the studs a few times prior to trying to remove them, (if there is room).  At my age, $400 sounds like a deal for a job like this.

[R J]

If a muffler shop will do it for $400, go for it.

It doesn't take too long to add up to $400 on a repair order.

These kind of things are on a how long it takes to repair.

The son yesterday spent almost 8 hours doing the same thing.   After 3 1/2 hours and not making much headway, they pulled the engine.    And it was an F-150, 4 speed.           

Once the engine was out he got them to come loose fairly easy.   He also uses a MAP gas tank to heat small areas up.

Oh yes, his total bill was $880 labor, and $20 for parts.  Then add .06% tax on all of that.     Customer was thrilled to death.     We also changed his clutch disc.

We didn't charge for that as he had the part and we had the engine out.   Actually it was pressure plate, clutch disc, and throw out bearing.

[justintyper]

If You Have Access To A Welder This Job Isn't Too Bad. Get The Manifolds Off  (Cutting Headsoffworks) Then Weld Nuts To The Studs One At A Time Since The Heads On The 4.6/5.4 Are Aluminum The Heat From Welding The Nuts On Will Loosen The Studs As They Cool And Will Practically Come Out With Your Fingers When Cooled. Get The Truck Up On Jack Stands Pull The Front Wheels AndPlastic Fender Liners To Gain Room To Work. It's Not Terribly Hard Just Time Consuming.Good Luck!

[alph]

If You Have Access To A Welder This Job Isn't Too Bad. Get The Manifolds Off  (Cutting Headsoffworks) Then Weld Nuts To The Studs One At A Time Since The Heads On The 4.6/5.4 Are Aluminum The Heat From Welding The Nuts On Will Loosen The Studs As They Cool And Will Practically Come Out With Your Fingers When Cooled. Get The Truck Up On Jack Stands Pull The Front Wheels AndPlastic Fender Liners To Gain Room To Work. It's Not Terribly Hard Just Time Consuming.Good Luck!

Yeah, that’s pretty much my plan of attach right there!!  I’ve got a stick welder, but I’ve been looking for a good reason to buy a wire feed welder, and this might be it!!  my wife and I have an agreement that what ever money I save from doing it myself, I can spend on myself, and I’ve been eying a nice Hobart wire feed MIG welder that I can put an aluminum wire feeder onto so I can make my single wheel cycle trailer that I’ve been wanting to do for over two years now!  The hardest part is getting the time!!  To give you a clue, I’ve got 55 hours of OT on my last pay check, that’s enough to out right hire someone to do the exhaust manifold, and this coming pay check will have about the same amount of OT on it!!  I should have next weekend off to work on my truck. (unless someone dies or quits, then I’m not answering my phone).  With my luck, it’ll rain!  And we haven’t had any measurable rain in over two months, so, it most likely will be a rainy weekend next week!!

By the way, I’ll let you all know how it turned out once I’m done.  Maybe even post a video on youtube……

[justintyper]

If You Have Access To A Welder This Job Isn't Too Bad. Get The Manifolds Off  (Cutting Headsoffworks) Then Weld Nuts To The Studs One At A Time Since The Heads On The 4.6/5.4 Are Aluminum The Heat From Welding The Nuts On Will Loosen The Studs As They Cool And Will Practically Come Out With Your Fingers When Cooled. Get The Truck Up On Jack Stands Pull The Front Wheels AndPlastic Fender Liners To Gain Room To Work. It's Not Terribly Hard Just Time Consuming.Good Luck!

Yeah, that’s pretty much my plan of attach right there!!  I’ve got a stick welder, but I’ve been looking for a good reason to buy a wire feed welder, and this might be it!!  my wife and I have an agreement that what ever money I save from doing it myself, I can spend on myself, and I’ve been eying a nice Hobart wire feed MIG welder that I can put an aluminum wire feeder onto so I can make my single wheel cycle trailer that I’ve been wanting to do for over two years now!  The hardest part is getting the time!!  To give you a clue, I’ve got 55 hours of OT on my last pay check, that’s enough to out right hire someone to do the exhaust manifold, and this coming pay check will have about the same amount of OT on it!!  I should have next weekend off to work on my truck. (unless someone dies or quits, then I’m not answering my phone).  With my luck, it’ll rain!  And we haven’t had any measurable rain in over two months, so, it most likely will be a rainy weekend next week!!

By the way, I’ll let you all know how it turned out once I’m done.  Maybe even post a video on youtube……

good deal! ive had to do this at work and its not fun but like i said its not hard just time consuming. btw you wanna share some of that ot?lol

[IamGCW]

If You Have Access To A Welder This Job Isn't Too Bad. Get The Manifolds Off  (Cutting Headsoffworks) Then Weld Nuts To The Studs One At A Time Since The Heads On The 4.6/5.4 Are Aluminum The Heat From Welding The Nuts On Will Loosen The Studs As They Cool And Will Practically Come Out With Your Fingers When Cooled. Get The Truck Up On Jack Stands Pull The Front Wheels AndPlastic Fender Liners To Gain Room To Work. It's Not Terribly Hard Just Time Consuming.Good Luck!

+1 

[da prez]

ALPH , I have done that job many times when I was working. All good advise . If you decide to do it ,  take your time. One other trick is to use the exhaust manifold as a drill guide if you have to drill and tap the holes. If you get to that extreem, leave at least two bolts as long as possible to hold the manifold in place , when you cut the other ones off.  Use the drill size that fits the  hole in the manifold to center the hole and then use a drill smaller than tap drill size to drill thru. In most cases , an easy out will not remove a broken bolt without releaving the stress on it. As said earlier , with the heads cut off and the manifold removed , tap or hit the studs as this will help loosen them up. I am not that far from you. Depending on timing , PM me if you need help.
                                        da prez

[alph]

UPDATE!!

started working on it yesterday afternoon at 3:30.  was able to hammer on an 11mm socket onto each nut, then carefully wrenched them off!!  all but one stud came out without issue!  the one that did break off in the block was broken before I even started!  that one i'll have to drill out, but that doesn't scare me since I do that on a near weekly basis at work.  the hardest part was cutting the two bolts that connect the manifold to the exhaust pipe!!  I bought two brand new metal saw zall blades, and those darn bolts must have been made of EXTRA hard harden steel!!  I used one blade on each!  believe it or not, I had everything cleaned out of there by 6pm!!  what I thought was going to be an all day thing turned out to only take 2 1/2 hours!  I do have to install the manifold, but the hard part is done!!  I would say that spraying "liquid wrench" on the bolts everyday and letting it soak in for a week was the reason it went so well.  gotta love the saving of $400!!  like my mama use to say; it's not how much you make, but how you spend it!!

while I was under there, I noticed the pipes going to my AC compressor  were rusted through and that would explain why my AC doesn't work, so now I've got to decide if I want to replace that while it's all taken apart, or wait till next spring when I need AC!!  I have to order the parts anyway, so I guess it'll wait till then.  I know that it's NOT a good idea since the AC is activated when the defrost is turned on, and running any pump without fluid in it isn't a good idea, maybe i'll just unplug the wiring to it and let it sit till spring, too many things to work on, too little time off from work!!

today, i'm going to do the shocks, might as well, i'm there now!!

[Gryphon Rider]

I know that it's NOT a good idea since the AC is activated when the defrost is turned on, and running any pump without fluid in it isn't a good idea, maybe i'll just unplug the wiring to it and let it sit till spring, too many things to work on, too little time off from work!!

Nothing wrong with unplugging the wires to the compressor.

[Skinhead]

A bit of advice, buy your parts at amazon.com.  I was amazed at the savings and what is available.  If you can wait a few days for the parts, it's a good way to go.

[vanagon40]

. . . I know that it's NOT a good idea since the AC is activated when the defrost is turned on, and running any pump without fluid in it isn't a good idea, maybe i'll just unplug the wiring to it and let it sit till spring . . . .

Although I cannot speak specifically regarding a 2001 Ford truck, typically the A/C system has a cut-out switch for low (or "no" in your case) pressure that prevents the compressor from running.  That said, unplugging it could not hurt.

[justintyper]

UPDATE!!

started working on it yesterday afternoon at 3:30.  was able to hammer on an 11mm socket onto each nut, then carefully wrenched them off!!  all but one stud came out without issue!  the one that did break off in the block was broken before I even started!  that one i'll have to drill out, but that doesn't scare me since I do that on a near weekly basis at work.  the hardest part was cutting the two bolts that connect the manifold to the exhaust pipe!!  I bought two brand new metal saw zall blades, and those darn bolts must have been made of EXTRA hard harden steel!!  I used one blade on each!  believe it or not, I had everything cleaned out of there by 6pm!!  what I thought was going to be an all day thing turned out to only take 2 1/2 hours!  I do have to install the manifold, but the hard part is done!!  I would say that spraying "liquid wrench" on the bolts everyday and letting it soak in for a week was the reason it went so well.  gotta love the saving of $400!!  like my mama use to say; it's not how much you make, but how you spend it!!

while I was under there, I noticed the pipes going to my AC compressor  were rusted through and that would explain why my AC doesn't work, so now I've got to decide if I want to replace that while it's all taken apart, or wait till next spring when I need AC!!  I have to order the parts anyway, so I guess it'll wait till then.  I know that it's NOT a good idea since the AC is activated when the defrost is turned on, and running any pump without fluid in it isn't a good idea, maybe i'll just unplug the wiring to it and let it sit till spring, too many things to work on, too little time off from work!!

today, i'm going to do the shocks, might as well, i'm there now!!

good deal! although if you have a welder itll save from having to drill that broken stud even if its broken below the surface the weld wont stick to the aluminum and you can build up the weld through a nut and then just use a socket and ratchet to remove. oh and the reason it was broken was from the manifold swelling as it rusts. if left alone several will break until you have a massive exhaust leak. all of this is due to the poor quality steel used during manufacture. the aftermarket studs/manifolds are actually of better quality than the factory replacements.

[pancho]

UPDATE!!

 gotta love the saving of $400!!  like my mama use to say; it's not how much you make, but how you spend it!!

Yep,, and like The Rifleman said, "money is just paper and green ink, the value of it is how you earn it"