Looking for the master painter.

[gregk]

I have an I/S and the Painter has done a fantisc job repainting the bike but a couple areas are biting him in the Arsh.  What is a safe stripper to use on the saddlebag and top trunk that will not eat into the plastic?  He was told of a good stripper by the auto parts store but he read on the can it eats plastic.   The areas --- the Rt sabble bag below the lock maybe baseball size.    the other area is the trunk lid  approx. above where it would say Valkyrie the width, and about 2" high.    The paint is lifting but not all.  It is in spots and different sizes, round like rain droplets 3/16- 3/8 max. the paint just kinda lifts into those bubbles. You can run your hand over them and they dont break open but you can see they are are there. the paint dont lift no higher than the width of a dime.  They are also spread out maybe 2-3 per sq. inch.    If I understood the Painter he figures it was do to sanding those areas down to bare plastic.  Is there a certain primer that he can use to prevent the lifting?

[pancho]

 Forget stripper,,,,, Leave the painting ideas up to the guy doing the painting, if he can't do an acceptable job, find another painter.

[gregk]

Pancho you are of no help did you even read what I wrote. Go back back to sleep.

[cma1]

painted professionally for years. there are no strippers i know of on the market that won't melt plastic.

quick lesson in painting 101. all automotive paints are acylic based (plastic) or urathane based (plastic) paint remover lifts paint off the surface (remember that paint is plastic) if surface is also plastic, well need i go any further. sorry, but time to get out the wet or dry and start wetsanding.

if i had to guess, i would think your painter might have tried to paint the ABS plastic without a plastic parts additive in either the paint, sealer, clearcoat, or all 3.

there are several things that can cause what you are describing, but it took me 20 years to learn it, i can't relate all that to you in 5 minutes. post some close up photos of the spots you are describing


also, no offense to him, but if your painter is buying material at an auto parts store instead of a paint store, you might consider shopping for a "painter" paint just ain't something you can buy at wal mart or auto zone.  just to give you something to sink your teeth into, i just painted a valk. complete with high grade urethane, clearcoated. the material alone cost over $400.00. (not including any labor) so figure what he charged you and remember that we always get what we pay for.

[pancho]

Sorry gregk,, I see that what I said was of no help to you,,  I sometimes get in too much of a rush and forget that I am talking to people that may not want to hear the blunt facts...... No offence meant ......

[gregk]

Thanks cma1, I apprecieate your help. This painter is not the average painter.  Right now I'll be talking to the Painter sometime by mon.  I'll send him a e-mail to see your comment.  and on Mon or sooner I'll send you an E-mail/ pics that only one other person in the  club has seen and the damaged areas if he has not started trying to do a refix again.  Here is my E-mail-- kollers-drahthaars@att.net

[salty1]

Interested to see how this works out for you Greg. Interesting thread.