Fathertime
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« on: July 14, 2009, 07:24:26 AM » |
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Based on a discussion in a previous thread, I'm seriously considering replacing my U-Joint myself. One of my issues is that I have neither a lift table nor a jack to raise up the rear so I can pull the back end. Looking around, I've found jacks from places like Harbor Freight among others, and not really as expensive as I thought they would be. It also looks like I need some kind of adapter to actually lift the machine. So,,, two questions: 1) What kind of jack are you people using and where did you get the adapter to cradle the frame of the girl? 2) She only has 24k on her, and from all the comments I've seen before, Valcs were supposed to be mostly bullet proof. The miles I have on her seem kind of low for such an important part to go south. Comments?
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Madmike
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« Reply #1 on: July 14, 2009, 07:53:44 AM » |
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some people use the adaptors available on e-bay (search Valkyrie lift adaptor), others make their basically like this or variations of this : http://www.herberts.org/wayne/valk/lowtechlift.htmIf you go to the old tech archives and search lifts or jacks there are extensive discussions on what folks like etc.
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BF
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« Reply #2 on: July 14, 2009, 08:04:15 AM » |
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I can't help about the shape I'm in I can't sing, I ain't pretty and my legs are thin But don't ask me what I think of you I might not give the answer that you want me to 
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Willow
Administrator
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Posts: 16627
Excessive comfort breeds weakness. PttP
Olathe, KS
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« Reply #3 on: July 14, 2009, 09:43:22 AM » |
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1) What kind of jack are you people using and where did you get the adapter to cradle the frame of the girl? 2) She only has 24k on her, and from all the comments I've seen before, Valcs were supposed to be mostly bullet proof. The miles I have on her seem kind of low for such an important part to go south. Comments?
I use a Craftsman. I have a steel adapter, but I used a home made wooden adapter for a long time.
Yes, 24K is way too soon. I'm still skeptical of your U-joint failure. It should last well past 100K. There are some other parts in the drive train that can go very early with a lack of lubrication.
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« Last Edit: July 14, 2009, 10:46:58 AM by Willow »
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Udo
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« Reply #5 on: July 14, 2009, 11:32:33 AM » |
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I also use a steel adapter. I would think, with a adapter, every bike jack, which is good quality, and can handle the weight, should work. Tied down straps are a good idea. To mount the adapter under the bike, a wife is helpful....she´s (don´t sk) normally not so helpful, when it´s time to remember, that the adapter has to be unmounted, before you ride after the work. My own brain is also useless....i attach a strap or a rag to the throttle grip.
I would also say, that´s to early for the U-joint, but maybe, if the rubber boot was defective, and dirt found it´s way inside....
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BF
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« Reply #6 on: July 14, 2009, 12:05:52 PM » |
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Oh yeah.....you CAN ride with the lift adapter still mounted on the bike. You just can't lean to the left all that well. Don't ask how I know. 
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I can't help about the shape I'm in I can't sing, I ain't pretty and my legs are thin But don't ask me what I think of you I might not give the answer that you want me to 
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Fathertime
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« Reply #7 on: July 14, 2009, 02:15:13 PM » |
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I'm wondering about the life span of those U-Joints also. To recap what I posted before, there is a noticible "ticking" noise when coasting, either clutch in or clutch out. It is more related to road speed than engine speed (clutch pulled in, the noise stays the same frequency when I twist the grip). The noise is coming from directly under the seat/engine area. I'm ready to put money on more under the seat rather than engine area, about where the boot is, but I cant swear to it. The rubber boot looks good from the right side of the bike, no obvious rips or tears in it that I can see. It was suggested that the gears in the rear end may be at fault, but the noise does not sound like its coming from there.
Any and all suggestions are welcome at this point. I went and priced out jacks and adapters and I'm seriously thinking of letting the dealer deal with it. Quoted $150 for labor and thats about what I would end up paying for a decent ATV/Mototcycle lift with the adaptor.
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #8 on: July 14, 2009, 02:51:39 PM » |
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Suggestions (you asked)
1. Dont let the dealer touch it unless you know them to be trustworthy on Valkyries
2. There are a couple other ways to get the back end lifted.....the best alternative to a M/C lift is the technique where you tie down the front end from each side of the triple trees side to side so the bike stands on its own...then just use a scissor jack under the motor with a nice solid 3/4 inch plywood footer to even out the load and you should be all set.
3. Sounds transfer so much you really cant trust your ear to pinpoint where its coming from all the time
4. You said "ticking" makes me NOT think u-joint......u-joint = banging, clattering. I suspect the pinion cup and splines
5. See if an experienced Valkyrie rider is close enough to help you.
Hope that helps
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Fathertime
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« Reply #9 on: July 14, 2009, 03:07:01 PM » |
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Suggestions (you asked)
1. Dont let the dealer touch it unless you know them to be trustworthy on Valkyries
2. There are a couple other ways to get the back end lifted.....the best alternative to a M/C lift is the technique where you tie down the front end from each side of the triple trees side to side so the bike stands on its own...then just use a scissor jack under the motor with a nice solid 3/4 inch plywood footer to even out the load and you should be all set.
3. Sounds transfer so much you really cant trust your ear to pinpoint where its coming from all the time
4. You said "ticking" makes me NOT think u-joint......u-joint = banging, clattering. I suspect the pinion cup and splines
5. See if an experienced Valkyrie rider is close enough to help you.
Hope that helps
Yes, it does help. I've had work done by this dealer before and am satisfied with them. The shop manager also rides a Valc, so that adds to my personal confidence level. I've gotta call a "my bad" on this, since I have not worked on the splines so I can see where they may be bad. Any other suggestions out there?
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NCGhostrider
Member
    
Posts: 592
A bad map and a long ride in Northern New Mexico!
Jacksboro, TX
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« Reply #10 on: July 14, 2009, 10:32:50 PM » |
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I thought that 36k or so was a bit young too for a u-joint failure. It had been giving me a very subtle vibration for quite a while... no noticeable noise, but I generally ride with the radio on etc etc.
I think I posted in another thread, that my dealer was either unable or unable to diagnose the problem, I had been suspecting it, but couldn't believe it myself. When I got to it...(didn't pull swingarm, just followed notes I found on the Valkyrie tech area), pieces fell out.
I contribute it to age, and lets face it, not every part is 100%.
I have a Harbor freight jack, and adapter from ebay... well worth the money.
The procedure isn't tough, wouldn't hurt to have a savvy friend come by to watch you take parts off and help keep things stabile if need be. I had my rear tire off, drive loose and u joint out in no time. Hardest part, like someone else posted was getting the rubber boot back on as you go back together.
The good thing is, that once you are that far, you will have a visual on the drive components from the engine back to the rear wheel. You can check splines, dampers, the shaft and then the u-joint.
The ticking noise is kind of disturbing.. I know this is a stupid question, but, you don't have a nail or something in the rear tire do you? Thats the kind of luck I would have, but it would be better than driveline problems! I apologize if you have posted something about checking the rear tire etc, if so, my bad!
One other note, a key pointer to my diagnosis of the u-joint failing was not acceleration or deceleration.. my dealer made that mistake "ran her up to a 100 didn't notice anything"... It was changing the pitch of the drive line as I went over a rise or change in road terrain. I am fairly big, so a decent sweeping dip at road speed can cause me to get good bit of depression on the rear shocks.. as they did, my vibration, ever so subtle, did increase, or at least changed its feel. Also, after you get the rear wheel up, a bit, you may be able to rotate the rear tire and listen with the engine off.
Dang I posted over 2 cents worth..
Good luck
Craig
NCGhostrider 99 I/S
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#6674 99 I/S Why aren't we riding? Anyone? Anyone?
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stude31
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« Reply #11 on: July 15, 2009, 04:09:51 AM » |
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Good point on a nail in the tire  That would fall my way as well... It makes sense once you say it but your right I don't think this is a u-joint problem. Let us know what the outcome is for your problem Fathertime. Hope you get it figured out soon and in time.
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Fathertime
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« Reply #12 on: July 15, 2009, 03:55:49 PM » |
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Will do. As much as I hate to do it, I've got an appointment with the Dealer for Monday. Given My work schedule I just dont have the time to repair it and not loose weeks of riding time. Cross your fingers?
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FLATSIX
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« Reply #13 on: July 16, 2009, 02:17:47 AM » |
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I have problems with lifting my Baby too ! Have a common motorlift like you see often on E-bay - when putting under the motor only the front goes up. There are 2 possibilities to lift a Valk with motorjack : 1) by using the famous "valkyrie motorlift adapter" like sold on E-bay : it seems to work but I read that it was rather difficult to put it under the bike is you need 3 hands (and I have only 2 left hands...  ) 2) by using a sort of lift adaptor that is fixed under the bike and remains there once installed , they use the bolts from the sidestand to fix it to the machine : I see a big advantage : you have your adaptor al the time with you, so if trouble on the road, any garage with a lift (and they have it all) is able to lift your bike to repair the back tire for instance... QUESTION : does anyone has experience with this "fixed" adaptor ? on issues when taking corners very low - no scraping of that thing on the ground - clearance the same is without this piece ??
Thanks again for your input here !
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standard '97 - european F6C - red & white - 27.000 KM
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Poor Ol Harry
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« Reply #14 on: July 16, 2009, 09:29:23 AM » |
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I have an air powered lift table with limited space,one day my wife told me I could park the Valk top of the lift ! Works well.
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Bone
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« Reply #16 on: July 16, 2009, 04:46:34 PM » |
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Ken I'm still using the one shown in shoptalk with no complaints. I like your version. Looks like the engine sits directly on the front leg of the jack ?
Bone
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Gary
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« Reply #17 on: July 16, 2009, 06:05:00 PM » |
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I have an old Larin cycle lift, much like the Craftsman pics shown and have never had or used the adapter. I have the hidden air horns mounted under the bike where the adapter would go.
Never had any problem, just need to make sure you get it all lined up when jacking her up so's not to jack up the header pipe.
No problems to-date and I've had her since 97. Depending on what I'm doing and for how long, I may add tiedown straps to keep her stable. You just can't jack her up with the tiedown straps tight...
So far so good.
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Ken Tarver
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« Reply #18 on: July 16, 2009, 08:47:34 PM » |
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yessir Bone the engine rest on the front arm. The adapter has another piece of angle metal on the other side of the arm, helps keep it in place. here is a friend's lift ( my bike). It is a table lift, drive up on the platform and jack it up. great working height from the floor and when needed just step up onto the platform. It is big though, but nothing goes on in his shop but bike work. Like many of us, my space is smaller than I would like so this won't work for me now. 
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Six Packer
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« Reply #19 on: July 17, 2009, 03:17:01 AM » |
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FlatSix, I have the lift adaptor that stays affixed to the Valk. You are right it attaches to the kickstand and is tucked up inside the frame to give more than adequate clearance when taking turns. I live in PA and ride the twisties in the hills and do not experience any problems. When I am ready to jack up my bike, I just slide the jack under, line it up and up the bike goes. No need for the three handed model that I have had in the past which is a PIA.
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Hellcat
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« Reply #20 on: July 17, 2009, 11:45:08 AM » |
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I have the fixed adapter on my bike. No clearance issues. I don't remember which of the sellers I bought it from on ebay, though. They sure don't seem to like each other! I agree that it's a better system because 1,000 miles from home you can any garage jack up the Valk with no issues. I have problems with lifting my Baby too ! 2) by using a sort of lift adaptor that is fixed under the bike and remains there once installed , they use the bolts from the sidestand to fix it to the machine : I see a big advantage : you have your adaptor al the time with you, so if trouble on the road, any garage with a lift (and they have it all) is able to lift your bike to repair the back tire for instance... QUESTION : does anyone has experience with this "fixed" adaptor ? on issues when taking corners very low - no scraping of that thing on the ground - clearance the same is without this piece ??
Thanks again for your input here !
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Fathertime
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« Reply #23 on: July 20, 2009, 03:13:49 PM » |
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Ok, All you people who voted for a bad U-Joint, Raise your hands........ and stand over to the right. Y'all who said splines, stand over to the left.
Got a call from my stealer, and the votes have been counted and tallied.... Its the joint. Ya can give yourselfs a nice pat on the back. Yea, while the shaft and stuff are out, we're going for the spline/gear lube thing also. Should be back on the road when I finish my stint of work. When I'm done grilling steaks, I'll get on and tell the story of my "back up" ride, a '82 GS1100GK with alternator issues! FT
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NCGhostrider
Member
    
Posts: 592
A bad map and a long ride in Northern New Mexico!
Jacksboro, TX
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« Reply #24 on: July 20, 2009, 09:19:42 PM » |
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I know you are relieved and probably still surprised it is out so early, I was when mine did it!! Glad it is going to be ready to roll again.
Ride safe and enjoy!
Craig
NCGhostrider 99 I/S
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#6674 99 I/S Why aren't we riding? Anyone? Anyone?
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