Starting problem

[97ValkSteve]

Well, before I get her hauled off to the mechanic I thought I'd check in with you guys to see if you had any words of wisdom.  I've read all threads that I could find on this issue but keep in mind I'm not a very good or knowledgeable mechanic type.  Maybe there's something easy I'm missing.  Anyway, here's what I got:

All of a sudden, started getting buzzing/clicking from starter relay and starter would only crank engine intermittently.  Now it won't actually crank at all but starter does turn a bit sometimes and almost starts but mostly just clicks from the relay.  Here's what I've done/tried:

Checked battery voltage and connections.  Since my battery was old I decided to buy a new battery  (YUASA) feeling sure that was the problem but it wasn't.  Same exact symptoms.  Cleaned scrubbed all battery connections as well as starter relay connections, male and female.  No luck. Slow charged battery to make sure it was fully charged.  No luck.

Bought new starter relay from ebay.  Seems like an exact copy of OEM but no luck.  Same exact symptoms. 

Tried laying heavy screwdriver across the relay terminals with same result:  clicking and slight bit of starter turning.  Tried jumping motorcycle battery off fully charged car (not running)  battery and got same exact symptoms. 

Located ground wire and it looks pristine.  I thought about removing it but it looks a little hard to get to.

Starter button seems to be doing what it's supposed to so I don't want to do the maintenance on it unless you think it's really necessary. 

So that's about it.  It's like the amps are just not getting to the starter or maybe the starter is screwed up.  Anything else y'all could suggest would be appreciated.   Going out for awhile cause I'm so bummed out about this in case I don't respond right away.  Thanks.  Steve


P.S.  I've got a 97 Standard with 11,000 miles on it. 

[Thunderbolt]

Sounds like you have covered a lot of the usual bases.  I would try this just to verify that if you get the proper voltage to the starter, it will turn the engine.  Get a good set of heavy jumper cables and a known good battery.  Hook up negative to a good grounding point on the frame, the engine etc.  I don't remember which terminal without testing is +12V, so test it with your test light or voltmeter.  The other terminal that is not +12V goes directly to the starter.  Make sure the bike is not in gear first, then turn the key on (assuming you have left all the connections to the bike battery connected) and connect the positive lead of the jumper cable directly to the terminal on the starter relay that is not 12V., but be prepared for a spark and also to remove it once you determine if the starter spins the engine.  If it does not the starter is suspect.  If it does spin the engine you either have a bad battery or a connection problem to or through the starter relay.  Some of the starter relays that you can buy on Ebay have the terminals reversed.  I bought one and had to switch the large wires on the relay.  It failed shortly afterwards and I got an OEM from Pinwall and changed them back to OEM configuration.

[Chrisj CMA]

Did you charge that new battery fully or just put it in the bike?  If you didnt put a full charge on it, the battery can still be your problem

[97ValkSteve]

Thanks for the replies, guys. 

Thunderbolt, your suggestion sounds interesting but it scares me more than a little.  I'm going to have to think about that before trying it.  Correct me if I'm wrong but it sounds like hook up jumper cables to the good battery as per normal and with the other negative lead to the motorcycle frame and the other positive lead to one of the starter relay terminals.  I'll have to think about that.  Would it accomplish the same thing if you had the batteries hooked up like you were just going to jump the bad battery then connect the two starter relay terminals with a screwdriver or whatever? 

Yeah, Chris.  It acts a lot like a bad battery but I did charge the new one.  That plus attempting to jump the bike battery with a known good car battery resulting in the same thing leads me to believe there's nothing wrong with my battery.  Dang!

[Moonshot_1]

When you hit the starter button, wriggle it around some at the same time.

Does it make a difference?  If it does, even in the least, the maintenance on the button should be done.

You've seem to have narrowed it down to that or the starter.

[Thunderbolt]

 What you are attempting to do is eliminate possible sources for your problem.  My suggestion eliminates a couple of those possible sources.  Think of it like this, if you had your starter removed from the bike and laying on a work bench and hooked the black cable to the frame of the starter and to the negative post, and the red cable from the red or positive post, to the starter positive terminal you starter would spin until you removed one of the two cables if they were hooked up as you would normally. 
If you hook the spare battery as I mentioned in the other post what you are eliminating is the negative cable and both connections.  You are also eliminating the positive terminal, the red wire from the battery, and the starter relay.
Black from the negative terminal of the battery to the bike frame or engine.  Red from the positive terminal to the terminal on the starter relay that has no power under normal conditions. 
Do you have a test light or voltmeter?  Easiest is a 12V test light you can buy at the parts store.  Has a clip on one end a 12V bulb in a case and an ice pick like probe on the other end.  Hook the clip to the bike frame or engine or negative post.  Put the probe end on the two wires on the starter relay.  One should light the bulb, the other should not.  The one that does not is your starters positive lead.  When you put the red wire of your jumper cables to that terminal the starter should spin.  Don't forget to put the bike in neutral before attempting.